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Creative Sound Solutions SDX10 is $139. The Mach 5 Aduio IXL 1.2.2 is 165, hair over your max limit. Both are also great subs.

The Dayton HF subs are great subs, however I had a friend who bought the kit from dayton for the plate amp, 10" HF sub and 1 cu ft sealed box and was pretty happy with it untill he heard the ported Dayton HF 12" sub I built for my friend. Unless you need a really small box size you might consider a bigger driver. Like the MJ-18M which is $155, when it comes back into stock, or a ported box because even tho rock doesn't require really low extension you might be somewhat dissappointed by the quick drop off of the 10 in a small sealed box. However I doubt you will dislike a Dayton HF 10 sealed, you just might find you want more.

I enjoy all sorts of music but my meat and potatoes tends to be rock and metal, things like Iron Maiden, In Flames, Megadeth, Soilwork etc etc and I've found that given the constraints of my budget I am happier with a ported 12 than I would have been with a sealed 10 or 12.

If you get the SDX10 you can at least use some parametric EQ on the low end to bring it up a bit due to the extra xmax and power handling. As for the MJ18 sealed is not optimal for it but due to its large displacement it can play lower and louder than the 10s even tho its xmax and power handling are comparable.
 

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It will be interesting to see what you come up with. I have a friend who built a sub using the Dayton 10" HF in a 1 cu ft box but now he is wanting to go ported. It seems like a good idea the biggest problem being that with that little sub if you get the port tuned very low and then make it big enough to not have port noise then you have real issues getting the whole port to fit inside the box unless you use a slot port and fold it over it's self a few times. But we may still do it because he wants more output without spending any more than what a new cabinet would cost him.

Also if you did something like a 1 or 2 cu ft box tuned to the 35hz range that causes the sub to go into over excursion pretty quickly below 30hz, if his amp does not have a built in adjustable high pass filter then he will need to get something to take care of that if he ever watches movies or anything on that sub and that will cost extra. Still a nice idea tho, so hopefully you come up with something good.
 

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I can appreciate wanting as small a box as possible, I want a small box. However I've seen people say it here and in my messing around I have found it to be very true, there are 3 major variables in a DIY subwoofer, SIZE, PRICE and QUALITY/OUTPUT. Pick 2 and disregard the 3rd, you can have a really awesome sounding huge sub for not alot of coin. Or you can have a small moderate or unimpressive sounding sub for cheap. Or you can have a small really good sounding sub for alot of money. You can split the difference if you like but if you split it right down the middle what you'd end up with is a medium sized, decent sounding sub that was moderately expensive, heh.

Not saying that a sealed Dayton 10 or 12 HF wouldn't sound good. For the price they'll sound pretty awesome, but if you want really good bass extension in as small a box as possible you'd want something like a shiva-x or maelstorm-x, something like a behringer ep2500 and some decent eq...

Given your expectations tho I think if you get the dayton 12 you'll be happy. The 12 models decently and with that amp in a 1.0 cu ft box it models fairly flat to 30hz. It will only handle about 130watts but thats still enough to get you over 104db to 30hz.
 

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The MJ-18M models pretty well in a 2 cu ft box and would pretty much just be able to handle your amp at max power. They're only $155 also, but they're out of stock right now :(. If I were you and I could bring myself to wait I might pretty seriously consider that.

What I'm seeing is basically everything using that amp in a 1 - 2 cu ft box drops off pretty quickly after 30 hz. You just won't go deeper without a bigger box or ported box. For most rock and metal that will be ok tho since most normal instruments don't have fundamental frequencies lower than the mid 40s. However if you listen to any pipe organ stuff, or techno, rap, or anything else electronic some of that stuff also tends to have notes into the 30s and 20s.

Anyways, kick some ideas around and let us know what you settle on. No matter which one you build you'll probably end up being happier than you are now without a sub.:bigsmile:
 

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Actually in winisd when you select to add an eq/filter the default for parametric EQ is a 6db boost at 30hz which is what he said his amp has, so thats what I added. Did I do something wrong? I'm still learning quite a bit as I go so maybe I didn't do something right. In a box any larger than 1 cu ft there was a hump, I just assumed the small enclosure was basically cutting out about 6db at 30hz so the 6db parametric eq just brought it back up to level. Afterall both enclosures show a FS of around 45 which means they start dropping pretty hard below that frequency, right?
 

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Heh thanks for helping get back on track jorge. However I don't actually know much about how QTC reflects on the actual sound or quality of sound. I'll have to look into it. However if that is the case then the SDX10 has the lowest QTC posted so far, and the Dayton HF 10 has a lower QTC in the 2 cu ft box than in the 1 cu ft box, so if that is true then its just another reason to go with a little bit larger box when possible.

I googled :thiele small parameters qtc: and followed the first link. I was giong to just paste in the pertainant information but its a few paragraphs so I'll just post the link instead.

http://www.members.shaw.ca/LoudspeakerBuilder.ca/thiele-small.html

To paraphrase tho he says that about around 7 you get natural sounding bass, as the qtc goes up you get louder bass but less low frequencies and as qtc goes down you get lower extension but less DBs leading to what he calls "tinny" bass, whatever that means.

I wonder if the QTC value is effected by the 30hz 6db boost because it certainly affects the overall frequency response.

Another thing that is somewhat debated regarding tight bass and musicality is the group delay, but then again most sealed boxes have very good group delay other than any that is added due to EQing trying to get them to play lower.
 

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So how does one know what the Q of the flter is? Especailly on an older amp like the stryke where the specs are not easy to come by. Even on the newer Dayton and O-Audio amps don't give you a whole lot of information about their bass boost and cutoffs. What is the Q of the filter/eq and how do you know what it is?
 

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Well costanza basically you need to figure out how many cubic inches are taken up by the driver and however much bracing you are going to have and then figure out how many cubic inches you need to have one foot after subtracting the bracing and driver from the total volume. How close you want to get to exactly 1 cu ft is up to you. Deviations up 5-10% probably wont matter to most people.

As for figuring out the volume of your bracing thats pretty easy. How much volume does the Dayton 10" take up inside the cabinet. I'm not really sure, but hopefully there is an easy way to approximate it, or maybe one of the gurus here knows a good way to get that info.

If you're talking about a 15" cube then inside is going to be 13.5x13.5x13.5 or something after taking into account the thickness of the box, It'll be more like 13.5x13.5x12.75 if you go double thick on the front.

One cubic foot is 1728 inches, so if you have 13.5x13.5x12.75= 2323 cu in or 1.35 cu ft. Now if your bracing and driver take up about 1/3 of a cubic foot you're great. But you'll have to design and figure out the volume of your bracing your self and hopefully someone else here can help you with the space displaced by the driver on the inside of the box.

Hopefully that was helpful to you.
 

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As for making the box smaller, no not really, not without losing output in the 30-40hz range. I tried explaining it several times but every time I read what I wrote I saw that it could be confusing. If you want to see one of us could post some graphs or try to explain it but basically, no. If you make your box any smaller than 1 cu ft you will start losing bass below 35-40 hz in relation to the rest of the frequency range that the sub is playing.
 
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