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10", small enclosure, Hmmm.....

3518 Views 11 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  SamNavy
I was really excited to see the amount of traffic in the DIY sub forums here... this is definitely the place to ask my questions. I've built 2 subs in the past so I'm not a complete NOOB... but it's been awhile.
#1: 8" Tang Band sonosub, .83cuft, 30hz... wouldn't exactly blow the windows open.
#2: 12" Dayton DVC, 3cuft, 20hz... did the trick for many years.

But my current house won't support the dedicated HT I had before I moved so I sold #2. So now I'm using #1 behind my corner mounted Plasma and it's not enough... so time for a new sub.

Need to be in the sub-$300 range for driver/amp.
Need the thing to fit in the corner behind the plasma that sits on a corner TV stand... an area about the size of an airplane carry-on bag but triangular (yah... I know).

I can build anything.
I can paint it black so it disappears back there... overall "looks" not very important.
I'm familiar with winISD.

Everything that I watch on TV, including general programming, movies, music channels... etc. This thing is really just to complement the TV speakers for now, and a modest 2-channel setup to come in the next few months.

I don't think I need more than an 8" driver. I was thinking of a nice and easy .75cuft box, Dayton Reference 10"HF, and the Dayton 240watt amp. That keeps me well under $300 for everything including binding posts, wood, paint, spikes. Does anybody have the winISD file for that driver?

Am I on the right track? Is there a better-for-the-money 10" driver?

Thanks for the help... it's good to be back in the hobby!
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With a .75cu.ft. box I take it you mean sealed. The sub works well in 2 cu.ft. tuned to 22 hz. Here is the WinISD file for the Dayton 10" Reference HF Subwoofer 4 Ohm:

View attachment Dayton 10_ Reference HF (RSS265HF-4).wdr

and also the 10" Titanic Mk III

View attachment Dayton 10_ Titanic Mk III.wdr
Thanks for the link to the downloads page!
Yes, the .75 was for sealed.
I'll have to mock up exactly how big a 2cuft box is. I'm really going to be space limited.
My TV stand is going to look like the picture below and it has to fit behind it and flush with the top. I'm looking at no more than around 24" high.

Are there any acoustic disadvantages to making a triangular sub box?
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Are there any acoustic disadvantages to making a triangular sub box?
Not really. If porting you might have to get a little more creative. Other then that, just make sure the cabinet is the proper internal volume. Here's a build like what you're talking about only a bit bigger.

WOW! That's exactly what I needed to see. 115L=4cuft, and exactly half that size was what I thought when I saw the picture before I saw the size. That design looks easy enough... so I think that's the ticket.
Thanks again!
You're welcome. Now post a build thread when you get started! :bigsmile:
Check out the 10" at CSS. Click on CSS at the top of this page.
It's great to have choices. That CS 10" is a little more expensive, and the specs look very close. It's a little less sensitive, but also has higher power handling. I think I'm still leaning towards the Dayton. Now I'm getting excited!
I ran the CSS SDX10 and the Dayton RSS265HF through WinISD and rarely have I seen two drivers with similar performance as these two . The SDX10 bests the Dayton in spl by about 3db over almost the entire bandwidth otherwise the parameters are very close.
Which Dayton, the Reference or the Titanic?
The Reference HF... which is about 2/3 the price of the CSS. I think my decision has been made on equipment. I need to find a spare afternoon and get cracking on a box.

Thanks everybody for your help. I'll hopefully have pictures in a couple weeks. I go to sea on Wed for 8 days... so maybe as early as the first weekend of Feb I can knock this thing out. It'll be nice!
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