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Hello everyone, I don't post very much but read the forums on a daily basis. I have built a lot of Subwoofer boxes of all kinds, but never built a sonosub. I have a 12" sonotube laying around and a 10" Audiopulse laying around. Would a 10" Audiopulse work well in a 12" sonotube. If it would work, how long? and what kind of port would you guys recommend? Thanks for your time, Tate
 

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It's an Audiopulse EPD210 EPIC 10" DVC Subwoofer 2 Ohm

Power handling: 600 watts RMS *VCdia: 2" *Impedance: 2 ohms per coil *Re: 3.6 ohms (series) *Fs: 25 Hz *SPL: 84.8 dB 1W/1m *Magnet weight: 140 oz *CMS: 300 uM/N *Mms: 128 g *BL: 14.1 Tm *Sd: 0.032 sq. m *Vas: 1.62 cu. ft. *Qms: 3.80 *Qes: .37 *Qts: .34 *Xmax: 22 mm *Dimensions: Overall diameter: 10.97", Cutout diameter: 9.50", Mounting depth: 5.62".

Thank you for the input
 

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For this to work in a 12 inch sonotube you would either fold the port or let it stick out above the sonotube like a stove pipe. In 2.5.cu ft tuned to 18 hz, with 500 watts input power and a HPF at 16 hz, port air speed would be 30 m/s at 17.5 hz with a 4 inch flared port 38.75 inches long.

Axis 10.JPG
 

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Thanks for all your input, looks like I should just build a ported box for this job.

Tate
 

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As you say, it doesn't need to be tuned that low, just trying to get the most out of it.
I just thought driver output tended to drop off below Fs of the driver. Since this is a 10" sub I figured one might tune a bit higher to limit how much you'd need to cut the higher frequencies to keep the FR flat.

Of course I don't have Unibox at work so I can't back up what I'm saying.
 

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Here's 3 different models. All with 500 watts input, HPF to control cone excursion, port lengths are 32 inches long and up. 2.5 cu.ft.tuned to 18 hz would give the most low end output at 20 hz and below for a HT application.

View attachment 12206
Yeah, in my opinion (and we all know what free opinions are worth) I think that while the orange line does not get into the 20 Hz area at all it does make better use of the given driver's capabilities. Since you aren't going to be thumping much at 20Hz with a 10" cone and 22mm of xmax anyways I'd rather optimize the area where it can play well.

But, again, that's just my opinion.
 

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What's so bad about trying this just for giggles? Go to the home depot or lowe's and buy a couple of the $7 mdf pieces (not the full sheet) and a 4" sonotube or pvc pipe. You'll be out $30 max and you can see how it sounds. Not too bad and if you don't like the sound, you're out $30.
 

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Thanks for all your input, looks like I should just build a ported box for this job.

Tate
Not necessarily Tate, Mike generously modeled 3 builds and IF you're using it for music you might use the green, oops, I mean pink or orange: higher tune, higher spl. I am building a similar (but much lower powered) 10" because of a. I needed a music sub for my satellite speakers, b. small corner footprint, and c. lower cost and something new But I agree with Mike for HT, but I never saw if you stated intended use...

I'll be posting a few build pics soon, good luck!
 
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