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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After following this forum for awhile, I finally decided to build a second sub for my home theater. I'm currently running a Velodyne HGS-15 and I wanted to add a second sub to the mix. I wanted something with more punch and my main listening is home theater, so I decided to go with a ported design. In another thread I read about a flat pack available from DIY Sound Group. I went ahead and ordered it up and below are some pics of how the build has progressed so far.

The question I have is which driver should I go with. I've been doing a lot of reading on this and other forums and have read many "best 15 inch sub" threads, but most have been pretty dated and the mentioned driver models are no longer available. My budget is $450 and I'd like to get the best quality I can for the budget.

Another question is will a ported Martycube sub work well with my existing Velodyne sealed sub, or would I be better off building a second Martycube and pairing those two up in my theater. Theater room is 20 x 15 X 8.

I'm planning to use one of the Behringer external amps, but I have decided which one to go with and I'm waiting to see which driver I go with before I make that decision.

I was very happy with the quality of this kit. The panels are cut using a CNC machine and they are spot on with their tolerances. It went together perfectly.

Here are the pics.

Scale model Cardboard


Machine Toolroom Workbench Tool Furniture


Machine


Workbench Machine Tool


Vehicle Car
 

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I also used this kit for my Stereo Integrity D2 15" driver and it POUNDS. Not chuffing at any volume and went together quite well.



 

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Right now I pretty sure I'm going to go with the FI Q15, configured with the Dual 2 ohm voice coil and cooling, unless someone out there has a better suggestion. No decision on the amp yet.

I got the kit from DIY Sound Group. They call it a Ported Cube15: http://www.diysoundgroup.com/ported-subwoofers-1.html
Honestly I'd look hard at the MQ-600 that Craig (craigsub) is selling for 300 dollars. You will NEED a mini-dsp since this amp has no highpass or lowpass and PEQ onboard, which you WILL NEED to make sure you dont go over the max excursion of your driver down low, but for the price its hard to beat. If your planning on only one sub you could wire each coil to its own channel on the amp, or wire as you planned (the amp can handle 2 ohms) and then build another later on.....
 

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You seem to be pushing the mq600 amplifier quite a bit........lets see some good close up photos of the front, back and innards.......
I couldn't find any decent photos of the amp using google................
It seems like a huge 23kg monster........don't get me wrong, I am interested ...just need more info.........
 

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You seem to be pushing the mq600 amplifier quite a bit........lets see some good close up photos of the front, back and innards.......
I couldn't find any decent photos of the amp using google................
It seems like a huge 23kg monster........don't get me wrong, I am interested ...just need more info.........
If that was directed at me, I'm using the Dayton SA1000 amp because I already had it. I bought that monoblock amp for 300 used, and mainly because it had no fans and I dont think I will ever be able to convince my wife to go duals, I was OK with it.

If I planned on a sub that needed more power (or dual subs) than my Stereo Integrity (so something like the Dayton Ultimax, etc) I would have gone with either the MQ-600 or the Crown XLS-1500. The Crown is also a viable option and it has both RCA inputs and regular speaker wire outputs rather than speakon. That may also be a factor.

I trust Craigsubs suggestion for the MQ-600 since he was using similar subs and enclosures to what a lot of guys are using.
 

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I also will say the XLS series in general is quite good, so if you can afford to spend for the XLS-2000 that also would be a good choice. Extra overhead wattage is never a bad thing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Endershadow, it was your build thread that led me to buy this flat pack.

You went with the SI D2 b stock, correct? I contacted SI and was told they have one unlisted on website HST-15 and was also considering that instead of the FI Q15.

Any thoughts on either of those? I'm currently thinking of an inuke 3000 as the amp.
 

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Endershadow, it was your build thread that led me to buy this flat pack.

You went with the SI D2 b stock, correct? I contacted SI and was told they have one unlisted on website HST-15 and was also considering that instead of the FI Q15.

Any thoughts on either of those? I'm currently thinking of an inuke 3000 as the amp.
Cool. I love my sub. I did indeed go with a B-Stock Stereo Integrity D2 15" driver. I've wired it for 4 ohms and my Dayton can do 1000 watts into it so I have decent headroom.

I never looked into the FI stuff, I was comparing the SI to the TC Sounds LMS-R and the Dayton Ultimax's. Personally I like that the SI needed less wattage and was a very compliant driver. Now that said I'm erring on the side of caution and NOT sending as much wattage as some are into their drivers. I've got mine at 50% gain on my amp and honestly its more than enough for me.

I know folks that are using the iNuke 3000 and bridging it with these drivers and I just keep thinking its going to kill the driver. I've posted in my thread a couple times, but to re-iterate what I read that made me cautious with the SI driver:

Indeed Stereo Integrity confirms that the power rating for this driver is based on the mechanical overload not what the coil will handle thermally. They recommend 600w and no more for this driver. The very compliant suspension results in little power being needed to move the driver to full stroke. SI's recommendations for this woofer make sense in light of this and the driver will not make much use of more than 5 or 600w of power without getting into trouble. Depending upon the particular enclosure design more power could possibly be used but careful measurement and simulation would be needed to assess the wisdom of applying more power.
So for me I'm going with that as honestly it can move a ton of air without a ton of pressure and given my measurements post EQ, I've got more than enough bass.

So you'd honestly need to model both drivers in the box using WinISD to kinda see what your working with.

I dont regret the 15" D2 by any means as honestly the Ultimax driver needs a bigger box to dig lower, and the other subs were at or close to the same.

The TC Sounds 15" LMS-R is the most linear of them all, but then with EQ you can help cut that difference to almost nothing (as shown by my graph post EQ).

With my amp I used the subsonic filter which is a 17hz 12db drop which works just about perfect with this box. No boost or PEW is on and again its at 50% gain as if I go over that I start to notice it bottoming out a bit depending on what movie I am watching.

 

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The Fs on the Fi-Q15 is too high (32Hz) for HT. It's targeted at car audio boom-mobiles.

Something like an IXL will be much better suited for a low-tune HT application. 22mm Xmax.

http://www.istonline.ca/mach5_ixl_15.html

Ultimax Xmax is 19mm, but Fs is a little lower. I'd go with the IXL.

You mentioned an unlisted SI HST-15? GO FOR IT!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Wooderson, You've got a point there for sure. I checked out the both drivers you mentioned and it looks like both want a 6 cuft ported box. The box I'm building is 4 cuft. I'd rather get a driver that is sized for the 4cuft range. Any other thoughts on that?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Based on my flat-pack enclosure and it's existing characteristics, I've narrowed my driver search down to three drivers. The Dayton RS HF-4, Dayton RS HO-4 and the Eminence Lab-15.

Based on the existing length and size of the port, it looks like it tunes out to 22Hz.

I've modeled all three in WinISD and based on the image below, I think the RS HF-4 looks best (top light green) with the HO being second (middle) and the Lab-15 being third.

I'm thinking the HF is a little better because of they're all pretty close at 20Hz, but the HF has that 1.6db pop from 30Hz up.

Do you agree with me there, or am I missing something in my analysis. I'm pretty new to all this stuff and I'm looking for advice. I'm thinking that db pop is a good thing, and I don't know if I'm wrong about that.

Text Line Diagram Slope Design
 

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Don't worry about these curves too much. You'll be eq'ing anyway. What you want is maximum output capability @ 20 to 30Hz. If you can get your hands on an SI HST-15, it's a no-brainer.

Check the maximum SPL plots in WinISD. Maybe I'll do some modeling later tonight and publish to my shared spreadsheet. Can you get the T/S params for the SI 15?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks for the info, that's helpful.

The SI HST-15 would be my driver of choice for sure, when I checked back on it, he said he no longer had it. So that's not going to happen.

I went on to model the IST IXL-15.2.2 and it looks better than the Dayton's, but the webpage says they are out of stock on it, so I've got an email into them.

I measured the inside of the box and recomputed the box volume taking into account the space for the port and the bracing and I came up with a number closer to 4.25cf and a port that is 33"L by 2.13T * 14W and with the new numbers put into WinISD, the Dayton HO is looking a little flatter and rolls off a little later than the HF.

So if I don't hear back from IST, I'm going to go with the HO, unless I find something better between now and then.
 
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