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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, I finally started my first sub build project after lurking on here for several months. I got a little bit of input from others on a different thread, but finally decided to just go for it.

I'm using the 15" Dayton RSS390HO-4 driver in a 3.5cu.ft. box with 2 square slot ports, all front firing, tuned to around 18hz.

Here is the design and cut sheet in AutoCAD (sorry, very basic). Not everything is shown, but you can get the basic idea. I tried messing around with google sketchup, but it was a little more intensive than I wanted to do.

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And a picture of the sub

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Here is what I worked up in WiniSD.

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At first i had planned on finding a used RANE PE17 for a high pass filter plus PEQ, but the miniDSP is looking really good now that it reaches below 20hz. It would only be a little more money and seems a lot more versatile.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Oh yea, forgot, I bought an EP2500 to power it with as i hope to build a second one in the future because my room is HUGE! My Home Theater doubles as my living room which is around 20' x 20' at its largest dimensions (odd shaped, not square), with stairs wrapping around one side, 21' high ceiling, and open to the kitchen in the rear. Definitely not ideal, but the best i could do.

I am coming from a Premier Acoustics PA-120 sub so this should be a pretty big difference for me...at least I'm hoping so!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
...and I definitely need some smoothing. I've only found one spot in the whole room where it produces smooth bass for the entire seating area...and the wife sure doesn't want anything in that spot!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
How did you go about choosing the Dayton driver?
Because it was CHEAP! It doesn't have the excursion of most other popular drivers, but everyone that has used the Dayton drivers have been happy with them. This is also my first build project ever, so figured I would start small.

Also, the wife doesn't like to listen any louder than around 95db, AT MOST, so according to my modeling, this should work fine. I do want to add a second sub down the road though because I have a huge peak in one corner of my room even with the sub in it's optimal spot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I don't have a table saw, so I cut up the MDF with a skill saw and board guide. This turned out farely well, but next time I think i will take the time to go to my dads house and use his table saw. It would have been much more accurate and a lot easier.

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I made my own circle jig with a piece of bendy plywood i had left over from another project. I recommend this to anyone who doesn't want to spend the money for a jasper jig. It was very easy, cheap, and worked really well/

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I routed just enough for the driver to be flush first and then adjusted the jig in to cut the rest of the way through. You can also see where the ports will be. This was my first time using a router (other than helping my dad when i was a kid) and surprisingly it turned out really well.

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How do you like my work table!
 

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Nice so far... I'm sure this sub will deliver the levels you need. I have one myself and am very happy. Your friends will be impressed and your wife will think it's ridiculous. :bigsmile:

Man, it seems like a few weeks ago I posted somewhere on here how no one uses the Dayton Ref drivers for projects and I couldn't understand it. Now, it seems like half a dozen projects have sprouted up all at the same time! :T

At this price point you can easily build a second one in the future...
 

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Your work table is fantastic. Must have taken you at least 5 minutes to assemble. :clap:
I can't see what you use for the pivot point in your circle cutter jig. Is it a bolt, nail, pin ? How is it attached to the plywood?
The routed grooves and finished holes look like they were done with a $10K machine. Great work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Your work table is fantastic. Must have taken you at least 5 minutes to assemble. :clap:
I can't see what you use for the pivot point in your circle cutter jig. Is it a bolt, nail, pin ? How is it attached to the plywood?
The routed grooves and finished holes look like they were done with a $10K machine. Great work.
Thanks! I just used a small finish nail. I made my measurement on the back of the jig. It turned out to be a perfect fit for the driver.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Build pics...

I started by gluing the baffle and the front together, then did the bottom and one side...

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Then i did the first port and the internal bracing. I painted the inside of the port black before putting together. Caulked everything up for a good air-tight seal. Also used a 3/4" roundover on the port.

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One thing to note is that I really had to think ahead about how I was going to put this thing together, because the dual ports made it a little complicated. If I get around to building a second one, i may think about putting it together a little differently.

So far, this has been a blast! I can see this becoming addicting!

I almost have the enclosure finished and will post more pics soon. I can't wait to fire this thing up!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
For the finish I went with the Parts Express Black Ash Vinyl Laminate. It was a lot thinner than I thought it would be. If there are any imperfections in the wood (which I had a few due to not cutting with a table saw) they will show up through the laminate because it is so thin. I wrapped it around the entire enclosure first and then did the back and front. It wasn't too hard to put on as long as you take your time and go slow. The edges didn't stick as good as I would like them to have so I superglued a few areas, especially the corners.

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I still have to route the flare in the outside of the port. I'm hoping to do that tonight and then get the driver in and start playing with it this week! :bigsmile:
 
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