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Discussion Starter #1
Hi , i want to make a ported cabin with this speaker https://images4.static-thomann.de/pics/atg/atgdata/document/specs/215320.pdf

but i want it to be shallow , in fact the shallowest that can be done ,(the minimum distance of the back wall~insulation to the magnet) and the total net volume about 230 litters tuned at 25-30 hz with 2 tubes.(two -three dimensions)
Can you tell me the dimensions of the internal box and of the tubes length and diameter , and what insulation should i put and where and how this influences the final volume?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
230 lit f3 30hz , f6 28hz and at 25hz -9db , two tubes 14cm diam 33.6cm lenth tuned at 30 hz .

230lit, f3 61hz, f6 28hz and at 25hz -7 db two tubes 14cm diam 52,8cm length tuned at 25hz . if anyone see anything strange... room modes and f.response will be considered
 

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Is this for music only? That driver seems like it's for pro audio. Curious is to why the high tuning? The fs is 33hz, and that's pretty high for an HT sub.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I want to take advantage all the LFE , and get the punchiest sub with less money, i think its the only way to go.. this HST18 subwoofer is 712g Μms and 38mm xmax ...ideal for very low fr but not fast and tight at 60-120 hz thats physics.... i have another sub for this work dont worry 0:) my room gives extra bonus at very low fr and i want to see first how this will react alone ...
http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/ported-subwoofer-build-projects/113833-home-built-cinema-subs.html# i found this so... i say give it a try and some experiment with the length of the tube ...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I finally proceed with this woofer http://www.bcspeakers.com/products/lf-driver/18-0/8/18tbx100 , i also made all the adjustements to the box ,for the needs of the new driver ...
A Qsc , cinema series the isa 450 bridged is the amp that drives this unit.. i am at the burning process now but the first observations are that i gain all that extra punch i want but also loose all the extra low fr ...
I have on , the low cut 30hz filter from the amp, for the woofer protection, but I dont know if there will be any remarkable notice if i set it off in addition to the risk..
Ιn my mind thoughts like , one more sub for the extra low fr maybe wolud be the better route for my case , but ill let the ''burning time do its duty''
Fotos and measurement in time...
 

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I'm sensing that you are coming to us from the car stereo world. There are a few things to learn in that process.

- The fun in home-theater bass in 30Hz and down (to at least 15).
- You don't have to choose one frequency range over another (and if you really want to, you can put a big bump at 50Hz to get "punch").
- You now have the option of really large cabinets to squeeze out every last drop of low-freq efficiency
- You want drivers with low Fs (20Hz or lower)
- Most of us wind up with drivers from Stereo Integrity or Mach 5 Audio
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I tried with another sub with very low fs at the begginng , it was excelent at very low but that was all...
i have allready applied EQ, and at 50hz is one of the fr that i had the biggest peak but there was no punch , instead overwhelming to other fr... the only fr i left alone even the big peak was all the fr below 30hz and without any sensible overwhelming....all these with a sub that had an large peak at 30hz below....
The punchy fr are from 80-120 hz and i can take advantage of all the extra LFE or at least all to the sub if i cut the center-main at 100-120 hz .... (LFE 120HZ)
I believe that is mistake if you make cross at 80hz because all these filtering and the phace changes , destroys all the precious energy at a very crucial fr point!!
Also a sub that would be suitable for all these fr 20-120 , to reproduse at its max all these fr doesnt exist, you must make some compromises if you choose one for all...
My finally thoughts are to add the old sub for the 50hz below , ill see ...
 
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