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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Alright this is my first ported enclosure that I've ever made so I'm a big noob in that aspect. I bought two of these subs last night since eD has them on clearance.

So I've got LOTS of questions here :bigsmile:

I'm not really looking to experiment here. I'd like to use a tried and true nice setup for the tuning and enclosure volume.

The subs are 4 ohm DVC so for a plate amp I'd need both subs in the same enclosure so I could wire the subs to a 4 ohm load on the amp, or I could buy a stand alone amp if someone could suggest one, and create two enclosures. Either way will work. I'm looking at 500-600 watts RMS to work with.

Should I create a downfiring setup?

And I'm sure there are countless ways of doing this so if anyone wants to lend an idea feel free, I'm up to trying near anything. I've got unlimited supply to MDF 4x8, 4x10, and 4x12 sizes and have all the tools needed but clamps.

Thanks for all the help and I look forward to getting this moving.:hsd:
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yeah I read that thread a little earlier, but he is using the 13 AVs so I didn't know how that would work with my KVs
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
No. I understand that. But in my scenario I believe my best bet is to make a twin chamber design so that one plate amp may be used without doing some creative wiring tactics.

His enclosure is 4.2 ft^3 at tuned at 20 hz. Does anyone else have any suggestions in that aspect also?

I'm trying to learn how to use WinISD but it's a little tricky at first and I haven't read much about it yet, so I'm not sure how to come about proper enclosure size and tuning.
 

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Your right about the box volume. It was entered wrong in the database. Correction made. Modeling will tell the effects of tuning it lower, I don't have access to a modeling program at the moment as I'm at work. Hopefully someone will chime in.
As for your sub, with both drivers in the same box they don't have to be in separate chambers.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Alright so with them being in the same chamber do you suggest that I just double the current volume (if I were to use his design) or is that not necessary. Also! I forgot to add earlier the system is used for 35% Music 65% TV, Movies, Games. Room size is 11'x13' and 8' ceilings. So this should be plenty of bass for a small room.


BTW, here's the manufacturer's specs for the driver

Qts: .31
Qes: .35
Qms: 3.33
Fs: 21.5 Hz
Re: 3.7
Vas: 162 L
Mms: 142 g
Bl: 15 T*m
SPL: 88.47 dB
Sd: 545 cm^2
Xmax: 15.1 mm
Voice Coil: 50 mm
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
I'm pretty sure I'll be using the EP1500 for my amp wired at 8 ohms will give me 280 watts per channel with plenty of power left for later :hsd: So with this I believe I'll make my enclosures close to what the other build was like. Speakers will be here on Wednesday. I'll be covering my box with a kitchen counter top laminate (did I mention I do counter tops????). I have a few choices I may do but I'm looking at a chestnut burl front with black carpet sides and top.... But there are countless designs I can use.

One question though, instead of using a downfiring setup, what are the repercussions of facing the subs toward me.. I really like the look and they'll match my mains and TV
 

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Hey there, first let me apologize for the incorrect data. I don't know how I missed that. Testing of my enclosures on SPL meter gave me 21 Hz at 108 db, mostly due to the size of my room. I think you should do 2 Enclosures. You have more options for placement with this and even if you had used one Plate amp Series or Parallel laws of connection still apply. ED did a design for the 13 AV.2 using an LT 1300 with a connection to the other enclosure giving the same impedance to the amplifier. You don't have to worry about this with you EP1500 though.

I also am unable to remember the post over at AVS I read that was saying that you would get better performance with 2 enclosures since in a shared enclosure one driver would be compromised a bit with port and amp placement. I think it had to do with a dual chamber setup. Unless there is some compromising of some sort. This ; however was mentioned as unmeasurable.

Keep us posted on this build. Especially as you do kitchen couter topps this should be interesting.
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Here's what I got so far.. I went installing today and didn't have much time to work at the shop. I went through 4 batteries in the drill:gah:

I haven't decided if I'm going to make the face double thick and flush-mount the sub. It'll probably look better, since the subs will face the viewer. The problem is I don't have a circle jig and doing something like that free hand is a big no no.. Can you get those at Home Depot or Lowes?

Quick question, do you still suggest using spikes on the bottom to separate it from the floor?

 

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It looks good so far, brings back some good memories. If you can double the face for the driver would be good because of the pressure and vibrations on such a long face. I think you should put the spikes since it will mean that there is less surface area on the floor and it looks good too.
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I think it's coming along nicely. Alright, as soon as I get my jasper jig I'll add a front to both enclosures. I'm also thinking about doubling up on the top and bottom too with about a 1/8-1/4" overhang and cover those pieces with black laminate to have top and bottom caps.
It'll look a lot better than just wood grain all over.

The biggest problem is finding black scrap to do the caps with. Wood isn't a big deal, since I've already got enough to do the job, but some of our laminates can get expensive so I'd rather not buy any.

Wildcard : What were the lengths of your two pipes with the elbow between them? I don't know the useable length of the elbow to determine port length
 

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I total port length minus flares is 18" long.

With mine the tops I put on an extra piece of 5/8 MDF with the same 1/8" over hang you desire so it fell flush with the carpet on the sides.
 

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I really cannot remember the length the elbow accounted for off hand. I have since archived the project notes too. I believe that I read somewhere that you have to measure the outer elbow curve as well as the sleeves that hold the extra length. Of course it has to be accounted for when cutting the length of PVC to get the right length.
 
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Alright thanks for the info on the elbow I'll pick up the pieces I need for my port tomorrow. That's the last big thing holding this project back.

Got a little bit more done today, and the speakers came in. This isn't finished it's just mocked up to show the finished result. What do you guys think?



 
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