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Discussion Starter #41
I have thought about my 48" veneer problem and I am going to buy one off these:

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/60536/Blades/Router-Cutters/Titan/Titan-Rebater-Router-Cutter-With-Bearing-35-x-12-7mm

and then route all the edges and buy some off this:

http://www.wickes.co.uk/White-Oak-Quadrant/invt/162708

to edge with. This will give me a 12mm tolerance which should be enough to allow for shrinkage off the veneer.

Probably a bit more work and I could get pine quadrant but I am using white oak veneer and I think the white oak quadrant should give a better match to the veneer once stained.

I am going to ring a few cabinet makers up and get some advice on the veneering and what I should use to seal the veneer with.

I have found some conditioner in the states but I am here in the UK which is a shame but we'll get there.

cheers

Graham
 

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Discussion Starter #43
I bought another tin off japlac gloss black paint tonight. I went to the shop yesterday and bought what I thought was gloss black but turned out to be clear gloss. Dah!

I will add a coat tomorrow which will be the second and then wet sand and maybe add one more coat.

I will be routing the back ready for the primer.

More pics defo on saturday matey. Thanks for your patience.

cheers

Graham
 

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Discussion Starter #44
A little update time....

I have now applied the 2nd coat which I think should be enough. The only thing I am not sure about now is, I abviously need to wet sand again but I am worried I will take the paint off like it did a bit on the 1st coat.

I am using 1200 grit wet sand paper which should be fine or do I need to get say some 2000 grit to do this part.

Advise on that would be appreciated.

The other thing I have realised is that I have panted over the part off the side off the port which the back glues to. :doh:

You will see on the first pic below where I have painted it to the edge where the side glues on.

Will wood glue stick to the enamel paint ok. I will be screwing it anyway.

Here are the pics off the 1st coat after wet sanding.

I think Im doing ok as I have never done this before.

cheers


Graham
 

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Discussion Starter #45
And here are the pics with the second coat on. This paint is £7 for 250ml so I am hoping I will only need one more tin. I wont route the back until tomorrow as I don't want to get mdf all over the ports Ive just painted. That enamel paint stinks.


cheers

Graham
 

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Elite Shackster
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Graham, I see what you were getting at about glossing. First thing is, if your going to gloss MDF, you need to put something on the MDF, or it just looks like painted MDF. A heavy thick primer is necessary or even a super smooth and hard filler that cab smoothed back before you gloss it.

If not, as you an see, it looks like painted MDF and you need many may layers to get away from that. You can still get your desired finish but it will take more time and more layers of the expensive paint rather than cheaper primer. Tip of the day :D.

Your build is coming along a treat though pal, and the gloss will look good when done even though its going to take you a bit more time and effort.
 

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Discussion Starter #47
Dan,

How many layers do you think I will need. They are just ports at the end off the day but I still want it to look nice.

Its pretty smooth once Ive wet sanded down. Pics tend to show up all marks etc... From a distance you cant see anything. Whats the best thing to do once I have applied enough layers. Do I sand the final layer still before I add rubbing compound.

cheers

Graham
 

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As many as it takes is the only answer. Your trying to get it flat by removing the high spots, so once its flat, then thats enough, unless you want to build it higher for yourself.

As you say, they are oly ports, so as long as they are decent then they will be fine, nothing is too critical with this part, I'd be more concerned with getting the veneer spot on.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
Yep the wood glue didn't work on the painted wood. I have now glued a test piece with the bond and seal to see how that works. I will get some epoxy too and give that a go as the bond and seal is messy.

I wonder if you can get that stuff in black. I recall you could get it in about 4 colours. If I can't and the epoxy doesn't work then I will just use a small amount off Bond and seal.

cheers

Graham
 

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When i paint my MDF i use quality rattle can paint using mutiple layers, starting with good primer and sanding inbetween coats.:T
I have yet to see the orange peel effect on my dozens of projects, i was curious if your shooting with a spray gun or using rattle cans.:scratch:
 

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Discussion Starter #51
Bambino,

I used dulux primer and undercoat followed by JAPLAC gloss black enamel paint applied with a gloss roller.

It looks ok I think. When I add the back piece it will effectively darken the port inside.

Ive got to wait until friday to get some more tins off paint. The plan is wet sand the 2nd sub on thursday night followed by painting on friday night. Then on saturday I will be routing the top off each back pieces and then primer them on saturday too. Sunday I will add another layer off primer. I am off all next week so I will start painting with black paint on monday with finishing on tuesday/wednesday. The thursday I will be gluing the back piece to the sub and then cutout the speaker plate holes too. Then on friday I will add the final side to complete the box. During the week I want to cut the grill piece and paint inside the baffle piece with primer and black paint.

So all in all lots to do and a very busy week. I then need to veneer and then route the corners and apply quadrant at the weekend.

Gosh! sounds like a plan. My other half is off next week too so she will be helping me move the subs around as they are very heavy now.

cheers

Graham
 

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Elite Shackster
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If you use a roller to apply paint, it will apply it thicker than spraying will, which makes it more susceptible to orange peel effect. Thin layers applied with spraying dry quicker and generally dont end up that strange effect, which some people actually like.

Like you say, these are ports and your not even going to be able to see most of it when its done, keeping it smooth is more for smooth air flow than aesthetics. As long as they look how you want were you can see, thats all I would worry about, then just make sure the bits you cant see are smooth and bobs your uncle :T
 

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Discussion Starter #53
Dan,

I think there are some areas like that. I have smoothed each coat down as much as I can. I did think about spraying which I did some tests with a spray can but I found that it cracked as I found it hard to an even coat. The best way as you said is to take it to a body shop but thats probably a bit overkill for the ports. They will in each far corner off the room so they will be out of sight and I will have at least one plugged and if I use the mid tune (17.5hz) which I will use most off the time, 2 ports will be plugged so you wont even see inside the ports.

cheers

Graham
 

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I know this is too late, but I used truck bed liner to paint my box, and it didn't turn out glossy. Looks like a rough flat black color.

Looking good Graham! You will have some massive bass on your hands once they are completed :)
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They look great know matter what. Like you said they are just ports and there is really no need to spend extra time to perfect them as i don't think anyone will be poking there noses in them to see how nice they look.:T
Can't wait for a finished product!:sn:
 

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Discussion Starter #56
Bambino,

I did another test with the wood glue yesterday. I sanded down a straight line with 80 grit paper so it was rough. I then applied the glue to both areas and do you know what. I went out in the garage tonight and hey presto! its glued. So atleast I know it will work. Phew!

cheers

Graham
 

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Discussion Starter #58
Tell me about it. I was worried. But the other good thing is the slats that glue on the back piece have not been painted yet so they will glue to bare wood. Its just where the side bits glue to the back.

cheers

Graham
 

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Discussion Starter #59
I bought two tins off enamel paint, a tin off mdf primer, a new sanding block and a 3M rough block to sand down the painted areas. I should have some more wet sanding paper coming today. So alls good and will be getting alot done today. Plan today is 1st route the tops off the rear pieces, then prime them and paint the last coat off black on the inside port. Then paint the rear pieces with black paint. Its starting to get darker earlier so I need to get as much done this week as humanily possible. The only thing I will have to wait for is finishing off the veneering as I need 3 more sheets off veneer.

cheers

Graham
 

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Discussion Starter #60
A little update time. I have now painted all pieces and have left the last coatdrying on the back pieces and main sub part on the second sub. Here are some pics to show before and after applying the compound polish. Its not quite piano black but its a good deal better and for my first attempt at this I think its turned out quite well. Its not perfect as there a some areas which I could have rubbed down a bit more but they are not really visible.

Later on or in the morning I will sand down the last bits and polish them. Tomorrow I should be able to glue the back on. That then just leaves the side and bottom to glue on. I then need to cut the holes for the speaker platers and then veneer. I have not decided what to do with the inside off the baffle. I may just veneer that instead off painting.

cheers

Graham
 

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