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Discussion Starter #1
Ughhh... here I go again!

Reluctantly I am going to do this, although I am having a hard time getting motivated to do it.

I am replacing the factory head unit, door speakers and adding a sub to my recently acquired 07 ST Limited.

Headunit Parts

Pioneer AVH-P3300BT 5.8-Inch DVD Receiver - $339 shipped.


Pioneer GEX-P920XM XM Satellite Tuner - $90.99 shipped.


Metra 95-5812 Double DIN Installation Kit - $10.52 shipped.

Scosche FDK11B Wiring Harness - $14.94 shipped.

PAC SWI-PS Pioneer and Sony Universal Steering Wheel Radio Interface - $38.99 shipped.


Door Speakers

Infinity Reference 6832cf 5 x 7 - $51.95/pair shipped.



Subwoofer

MTX Audio Thunderform FEXST01BK10A-T45 (Black, Amplified) - $467.99 shipped.


or...

MTX Audio Thunderform FEXST01BK10A-FPR - $549.00 shipped.


The T45 Thunderform includes the older model Thunder4500 10" sub at 225 watts RMS, while the FPR Thunderform includes a newer shallow mount FPR 10" sub at 300 watts RMS... if I am getting it right.

I am not really up to building my own box, finishing it, installing the driver and amp. I think one of the MTX Thunderforms will serve me plenty well enough.

What I am really more undecided about is the door speakers and whether or not to use the factory amp or go ahead and install an aftermarket amp. I am thinking an aftermarket amp might be worth it. I am going to have to run a power wire to the battery anyway, so mounting an amp on the rear wall behind the seat and using a power distributor for powering it and the sub amp would be fairly easy to do.

One option would be to get the non-amplified version of the Thunderform, saving about $200 and applying that money towards a 5-channel amp, powering the sub and door speakers.

XD700/5 - JL Audio 5-Channel 700W Class D Amplifier - $400 shipped.


or...

Alpine PDX-5 Class D Amp - $375 shipped.


Ideas, suggestions and comments are appreciated.
 

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You should definatly use an outboard amp for the door speakers, Headunits never have the power required to do them justice and acheive the volumes you may be after. As for the sub i guess i would read reviews on the 2 and go from there, also if you can save $200 by getting a 5 channel amp and it has adequete power for the job thats what i would do. :T
 

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Car audio is much more my specialty than home is. Are your stock speakers a 5x7 coax or are they a component set? If components then replace with components. You will be happier with the results. I don't want to seem as though I am talking down your choice, but i think you may also be happier with something other than the infinity set you show. Do a search for phoenix gold rsd components or coaxials, much smoother than the infinity refs. Also consider taking some time to do a little deadening on the doors and seal the large holes up, it will open up a dimension of sound and impact from your doors that you never thought possible.

An amp is a great idea, because as stated before headunit power won't give you the oomph you're after.

Now onto a sub. There's a billion choices out there. I assume you are after something more stealthy? And pre-fabricated? If you were to do the mtx setup definitely save some coin and do the non-amplified version, since you are considering an amp anyway. I could literally geek out on this topic all day long, but i won't. Do yourself a favor, research it until you want to pull your hair out and then research it some more. Nothing works better than a great plan to start with.

Don't know how recommending other sites goes over here, but look into diymobileaudio.com and you will find everything from huge uber spendy sq competition cars to budget beaters to shake the toilet from a block away spl builds. A couple minor tweaks and you have a nicer than average setup in your ride, good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hi Andy...

Thanks for the input. I am actually a member of nearly all of the car audio forums... probably a half dozen or more. Also done quite a few car and trucks ... you can see a few of them here: http://www.snapbug.ws/caraudio.html

These are indeed 5x7/6x8 factory speakers. I really don't feel like fiddling with the tweeter mounting, but who knows... I may end up going component. I really just want better than the factory which are terrible. These particular Infinities are fairly popular. However, I am a solid fan of PG. I actually have a couple of PG amps that are still in the box... Xenon X1200.1 and X200.4 that I purchased for backups when I did my last system. My daughter still has my old Xenon X10d2 subs that were in one of my previous cars... and they are absolutely awesome. She simply cannot destroy them no matter how hard she keeps trying.

I ain't so crazy about their RSd line as I was their Xenon line, but that does not mean I won't consider them. Their 5 x 7's just don't seem to impress me that much. The Infinity's may not be any better though. However, for what I am looking for, probably either would work. I also plan to do a little bit of treatment as well.

It may be that I end up using the factory sub location with an upgraded 8" sub. It is a molded enclosure and seems about as respectable as the MTX or JL Audio molded enclosures, at least from what I can tell before extracting it from the vehicle, which I plan to do. I want to find out the cubic volume, so I plan to take it out and see how many gallons of water I can get in it and convert it to cubic feet. If it works out to be .4 or better, I think I can find a formidable 8" sub to work there... put a little power on it and I should be fine. That would save me a LOT of money too.

This truck is basically a piddle around truck. I won't drive it more than twice a week, so I don't want to get too carried away. I am certainly not looking for anything spectacular from this system. If I were gonna go all out, it would be in my BMW, which actually has a worthwhile factory system. I completely cringe at thinking about taking it apart, so I live with it as is. Maybe in a few years with the new wears off... I might consider doing something then. I am just getting too old for this stuff. :eek:lddude:
 

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Awesome! Ya know you're stuff! Nice work by the way. I agree that the PG Rsd's aren't the best in the world, but they will beat the infinity set and stocks by a longshot. If i remember correctly ID makes a very nice set from what I've been told. There are a ton of 8s out there that will probably perform really well once you figure your box volume.

I can absolutely relate to the getting older and not wanting to tear a car apart for audio. I'm 37 and swore I wasn't going to do a complicated rebuild on my car the last time I tore it apart. Simplicity was the plan.

That's how I ended up with a 4way active system (3way front + sub) aftermarket headunit, JBL MS8, a JBL 6 ch amp, a JBL mono, a JBL sub, a 6ch linedriver and a load of new wiring. Aaaahhhhh simplicity Lol.

A 5ch solution like the pdx you showed is very cool with a tiny footprint, however if you still have the PG 4ch it will throw fond of power to the fronts and you have 2ch left to bridge for a sub and you aren't out of pocket on it.

Hope some of this is a tiny bit of help, spitballing ideas is always a good time.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hmmm... 200 x 2 plus 400 x 1... solid power for sure. You know... if that X200.4 wasn't fifty-eleven feet long, that would be a great amp to work with. It's just so big, but I bet it would fit behind the back seat area pretty easy. I could run the rear speakers off the head unit... or skip them and just run fronts... might want a bit of rear fill though.

Definitely some good spitballing... I did not really think about it until you suggested it. You definitely got me thinking.
 

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Lol its a beast for sure but its hard to beat good ol A/B power in a car. If ya really want rear fill then i say stick em on head power, but conventional thinking in SQ oriented car audio is instead of spending $ on rear fill that muddies your stage, spend extra on your fronts since you want a more accurate image in the front for music, or keep your stock rears and when you are alone in the car or have one passenger up front keep it faded to the front. When you have peeps in the back seat dial the rears in so they can hear them as well.

If you can find one of the older ID or IDQ 8s you will be golden. Not a huge fan of the IDQ v3 stuff with the infamous cracking plastic baskets, but i hear when they work they sound awesome. I'm running a single JBL p-1022 off of a JBL bpx500.1 (baby crown) and it brings more than enough thunder for this ol basshead.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I am not sure if it will fit yet at 4⅜" mounting depth and proper enclosure volume, but the JBL GTO804 8" sub has been well received by the car audio community. I think it needs at least .3ft³.
 

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That's definitely not a lot of depth but i suppose if you needed you could add a baffle.

The gto series subs are all highly regarded. Can't say I've heard one but i have yet to use a jbl product that was dissapointing.
 

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Did a little bit of testing today and I think this factory enclosure is going to be just fine. It is pretty solid. It appears to be made out of the same thing the MTX Thunderforms are made of... polyethylene maybe? Anyway... it is ¼" thick. Total volume ended up at .467ft³... which is plenty for several sealed 8" drivers. That is not counting the raised areas where I could not get water. I will have plug a few holes with some JB Weld. The factory sub is DVC and not so shabby, although it won't handle very much power.

JBL GTO 804D box recommendation specs with T/S parameters.

The JBL GTO 804D calls for .3ft³ for sealed with fairly decent in-car response. If I end up going with it then I will have to use a spacer for the depth and the cut-out. I got 7.5" on the cut-out now, which is slightly too large for the JBL. It can handle up to 5" in depth with a bit of modification to take the factory hump out of the back of the box and cover it.

The door speakers are surprisingly plate components, although they sound terrible. Otherwise, there is really nothing looking too easy for components. There is not a really good location for tweeters outside the door or anywhere else for that matter. Those door speakers are max 2.5" in depth... it is very tight.

Here are a few pics of the sub, enclosure and what I am dealing with... and the HUGE factory amp.








 

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Personally i don't think you'll be dissapointed by the Coax's, i had a set of Infinity's years ago and they were awesome for my needs.:T
 

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That's plenty of volume for an 8 and it could always be stuffed with polyfill to increase the volume the speaker sees if you were to find a different 8 in your hunt. Shrinking the internal volume is always easier if needed but normally a box that is slightly larger than spec will just have smoother low end extension. Most manufacturer specs are a comfortable medium but jbl gets theirs pretty spot on, and once you factor in driver displacement you will be golden on your internal volume in my opinion.

So your doors contain seperates on a plate? Any chance you would have enough room to do a traditional set of 6.5" components on a 3/4" baffle in the stock location? That would give you a tad more depth to work with and a traditional speaker size with a billion options that are cost effective and sound great.

I will also agree that i loved infinity speakers years ago, they were great sounding and smooth. The newer stuff in my opinion leans towards peaky and harsh but low in a door it may sound fine. Considering some of the stuff that the OP has used in the past I really can't honestly say the infinitys will satisfy him. The sonata build with morel comps must be smooth as silk, and the factory bimmer system is no slouch either.
 

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Oh yeah! now your talkin i'd love to get some morels, there is a reason they cost so much though. When MB Quart was still MB Quart that was all i played with, could not beat the sound those speakers put out.:T
 

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One more thing to add is that alot of componet getups come as convertabels. Meaning you can turn the component (or seperate) into a coaxial type speaker.
 

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No doubt the morel gear is nice, haven't used any myself yet but mostly because I enjoy the challenge of putting a hodgepodge of speakers together myself to try and achieve good sound Lol. I was told that JL bought all the equipment and tooling and designs from the OG Quart factory and that their components are in essence the old school quart. Can't say 100% positive, but I can't deny it either. And the old MB Quart engineers started a new company called German Maestro but with all due respect I don't think they hold a candle to their original gear
 

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One more thing to add is that alot of componet getups come as convertabels. Meaning you can turn the component (or seperate) into a coaxial type speaker.
Yes! I always forget about that feature. One of the big advantages in that design is the fact that you still utilize the outboard crossover network instead of traditional manufacturers generic cap on a tweet in a coax
 

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The "new Mb Quart" is owned by Maxxonics which i haven't a clue as to the other companys they have there hands in but i'd bet JL isn't one but as well i can't say for sure. German maestro on the other hand would certainly be one to consider.

I've always been one for a company that specializes in speakers, another amps and another decks and EQ's Etc.
 

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Correct, maxxsonics owns the new quart, I was told JL bought the original designs, tooling etc from when quart was QUART Lol. There are quite a few companies out there who still have some proprietary products and designs but the amount of gear out there that is just re-branded is scary. The price difference in those identical products is even scarier. I won't point out any of it and keep myself out of trouble here :innocent:
 

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No worries here, it seems that alot of companies copy designs from one another, we do it all the time and i build garbage trucks which are supposably proprietary but we use or copy other companies designs.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Some of the best highs I ever had were the Dynaudio MD102's... incredible off-axis response that introduced the best imaging and sound stage I have ever heard in a vehicle. $300 just for tweeters though... hard to do in a piddle around truck.
 
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