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SORRY NO PICS
obviousely, the 22 doesn't even exhist yet... but here's stage 1 complete



Took some quick measurements today, have about 48" X 32" X 24" externally, going with a 3" X 22.5" X 77" slot port. That makes 14.8 cubes before sub displacement.

Making up for any errors, 14 cubes @ 12Hz :D IN-CAR :p
 

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What are you going to play in a car that will reach to 12Hz... :scratch:
I won't be surprissed if he says that it will be used with a DVD player :bigsmile:

(I haven't used mine on my CTS yet, I just use it for the navegation DVD because you can't watch a movie if the car is moving :yes:)
 

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Exactly, I am not much for sitting in a car to watch a movie anyway... and there is very little music that extends below 30Hz. I think tuning to 12Hz is expending an awful lot of power for naught... power that can be used to work where it is actually needed. I would tune it to 30Hz or there abouts and wait for my ears to burst or my eyeballs to pop out, whichever occurs first. :yikes:
 

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What are you going to play in a car that will reach to 12Hz... :scratch:
absolutely nothing. read the LLT tutorial about tuning lower than you will be listening. I don't want the majority of the output being recreated to be played via the port.

that was a lie to make 1 of several points that i always seem to have to remake.

point 2: I will mostly play the same songs over, and over, and over again that go the lowest. Hopefully as well, as we now have much higher Xmax and the ability to make 15" 18" and 22" drivers function properly, and now power is of abundance, more and more information sources (CD's, DVD's, XM, SIRIUS, whatever) (Music, Movies, sine waves.... cuz yes I will play with sine waves a lot because I can...doesn't mean you have to) Hopefully more and more source info will keep having more and more lower and lower info as we keep increasing the ability to re-create it, hence the ability to be able to hear/feel/enjoy it when we couldn't before. not because it is useless, but was very difficult to obtain appropriate levels to enjoy in the first place


I won't be surprissed if he says that it will be used with a DVD player :bigsmile:

(I haven't used mine on my CTS yet, I just use it for the navegation DVD because you can't watch a movie if the car is moving :yes:)
whether or not I use a DVD player, I will tune as low as I possibly can

Exactly, I am not much for sitting in a car to watch a movie anyway... and there is very little music that extends below 30Hz. I think tuning to 12Hz is expending an awful lot of power for naught... power that can be used to work where it is actually needed. I would tune it to 30Hz or there abouts and wait for my ears to burst or my eyeballs to pop out, whichever occurs first. :yikes:
it is for music. if i get a dvd player, will be even better. no MOST music doesn't contain info below 30Hz, and I won't listen to MOST music MOST of the time. I will play a bunch of low low songs over and over a lot of the time because that is what i enjoy. I do not enjoy what you enjoy.

I will never, ever tune any higher than 27Hz. Car, home. Music, movies. If that makes me a moron, then i guess I will continue to have to listen to these same coments over and over again, as I have for the last 5-10 years since realizing the reason I hated ported enclosures was because everyone else tunes way to high for MY TASTES. I hated ported and only liked sealed, till i learned I could make it the way I like it.

As for power waste... lets all just pretend I'm nmaking a sweet 14 cubed sealed box for it, and ignore the fact that my excursion will be significanly reduced and my output slightly increased way down low, where I actually do play the majority of the time, unlike most. Just pretend it's sealed, and I'm wasting nothing. I know if i tuned higher then I would get significantly more output, but THAT IS NOT WHAT I WANT.

So anyone that has posative things to say, they would be much more appreciated. I always welcome constructive critisizm, but not as far as tuning is concerned. I have my own experience, i have debated it for years, and I have learned it will just go nowhere. I am tuning low. Don't like it? to bad.
 

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Whoa Nellie! No one was intending to ruffle your feathers. I believe we were both being very positive and giving very positive advise. Pardon me for trying to help. To each his own... go for it. :T
 

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Whoa Nellie! No one was intending to ruffle your feathers. I believe we were both being very positive and giving very positive advise. Pardon me for trying to help. To each his own... go for it. :T
:D

I have always had to defend my desire to tune "too low". I get offensive really easy when it comes to my tuning freq and airspace. I know you are one of the knowledgeable posters here, i watch ya... so I'd prefer to hear critical details from you. Do you think 22.5" X 3" will suffice... things like that. I don't think i'll be playing a whole lot of sub 20Hz info, since it really is rare... so i think the port will still help from 20Hz on up, there's a lot of songs with 20-30Hz info! If there was a lot of 12-20Hz I could see the port area maybe being a problem... and when i am showing off with sine waves... which I know I will be doing a LOT... I'm guessing I should be OK... but what do you think?
 

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:D

I have always had to defend my desire to tune "too low". I get offensive really easy when it comes to my tuning freq and airspace. I know you are one of the knowledgeable posters here, i watch ya... so I'd prefer to hear critical details from you. Do you think 22.5" X 3" will suffice... things like that. I don't think i'll be playing a whole lot of sub 20Hz info, since it really is rare... so i think the port will still help from 20Hz on up, there's a lot of songs with 20-30Hz info! If there was a lot of 12-20Hz I could see the port area maybe being a problem... and when i am showing off with sine waves... which I know I will be doing a LOT... I'm guessing I should be OK... but what do you think?
The closer your port's Height:Width ratio is to 1 the better. Such a configuration minimizes physical impedance within a port. Additionally, with a 77" long port first resonance will be at about 88Hz. With a port resonance this low it would not be advisable to crossover above 50Hz if a 4th order slope is used.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The closer your port's Height:Width ratio is to 1 the better. Such a configuration minimizes physical impedance within a port. Additionally, with a 77" long port first resonance will be at about 88Hz. With a port resonance this low it would not be advisable to crossover above 50Hz if a 4th order slope is used.
ya I don't like the 1:9 general rule of thumb, and after reading the LLT thread by Steve, I finally converted back to round ports. I really want to do a 10" pipe... but that's just not possible for the car. I've planned on getting a 50Hz module and a 250Hz module for the sub out on 1 of the 2 Audio Control 6XS's... 1 for SQ/comp and 250Hz for showin the kiddies that a 22" can hit as hard as 8 10's/daily

then the "terrible port resonance" will give that slam/tightness way on up there... 80Hz from a 22" will learn them that don't no know better :D
 

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:yeahthat:

and I'll have 4 Extremis 6.4's off a KX850.4 either sealed or @ 40Hz in the doors... once again tuning lower than expected using range...


all 24dB slopes from a pair of 6XS's (unless I sell the brand new unopened one I have now and get a Rockford 360 er sumthin...) basically Adire Kit LCR crossover points/drivers but Usher tweet swapped with vifa

2 Vifa XT25TG30's 3.5kHz on up
2 Adire FR125S's 750Hz-3.5kHz
4 Adire Audio Extremis 6.4's 50Hz-750Hz
1 22" Fi Audio IB 10Hz-50Hz
 

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Hang on a minute. Whether it will suffice or not will depend on how the sub models in a specific application. It's impossible to answer the question since the sub doesn't even exist.

1 thing determines port velocity... total Vd. We have been given the total Vd. We can assume the worst, which is 2X the Vd of an IB18.

Then I will add... I am sure 90% of the time, I will not be driving the beast to it's limits. In-car, I see very little excursion needed from this thing, tuned, sealed, bandpass, free air....
 

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Hey Jordan,

I don't think it would be wise to apply a LLT theory in a car environment. Don't misunderstand (check my signature ;)). I have been enjoying my car sound system for years. I like music loud and deep :yes:.
I have listened to much of my preferred music in car and in my theater and unconsciously used to compare the qualitative behaviors all the time. I'd like to point out my car's sub is tuned around 28-30 Hz, while my HT subs are around 13 Hz.
There is definitely a difference in bass depth on few tracks, but it's not night and day (anyway my car still shakes much more :rofl:).

Although there is an advantage in depth at home, there is a major inconvenience as well of such a low tune: noise!!
Manytimes I'll see the amps fighting to produce very low signal that is not originally intended to be in the song. I'll find myself shaking a little bit while I shouldn't at all, and that somehow spoils the experience.
If I had the space in my car, and also assuming I had all the needed power and driver excursion, I would probably tune a little lower than 30 Hz, but NEVER below 20 Hz . I think at that point I would not be missing a single vibration while I would somewhat eliminate parasite air.
I hope this helps, take it or leave it. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #16
ok ok ok... jus sec...


Although there is an advantage in depth at home, there is a major inconvenience as well of such a low tune: noise!!
Manytimes I'll see the amps fighting to produce very low signal that is not originally intended to be in the song. I'll find myself shaking a little bit while I shouldn't at all, and that somehow spoils the experience.

That's y i have way way too much power for each driver :D I don't need 200 watts for my vifa tweets. sure, they're rated 150 watts each... but 200 watts of tweet in-car? hahaha! I love super loud super high like I love super loud super low... but not no 200 watts!

350 watts for a pair of 4.5"ers??

1000 watts for 4 6.5's? most people could use my mid bass amp to run a pair of 12's or a 15!

I plan on getting 2 KX2500.1's if I can get this in D2. 5,000 watts RMS or more. Will I be even giving this thing 3,000 watts continuous? I sure hope not! I like to:

Make it easy on the amps

Have a ton of headroom so when peaks come, I am still totally linear and effortless!


:D :D

If I don't get that coil option, I'll just have to go with a Maxximus or Warhorse :p :p
 

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Great! I'm having up to 4 KW output as well for the subs. I didn't mean they had problems when I said fighting. I meant there was an activity while there shouldn't :)
Sorry for my poor expression.

BTW, My car sub hits much more than RS meter can tell (and that's 126 db uncorrected).
 

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I have pics but don't know where they are hidden on my computer... Well it's while playing songs with dynamic bass like "the way I are" for ex.

I forgot to tell one very important thing: while tuning is 28-30 Hz, I have pretty flat FR down to 20 Hz in car!! Now imagine if tune is 20 Hz :bigsmile:
 

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i have pics but don't know where they are hidden on my computer... Well it's while playing songs with dynamic bass like "the way i are" for ex.

I forgot to tell one very important thing: While tuning is 28-30 hz, i have pretty flat fr down to 20 hz in car!! Now imagine if tune is 20 hz :bigsmile:
i want pics!!!!!
 
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