[trippigs]

Hello to all. My wife and I are building a new home which will have a dedicated home theater room. The dimensions are 18'x14'x10'. I would like to use as much of my equipment as possible. I have Definitive Technology speakers (ProMonitor 100 (2), ProCenter 100, BP-1x (2) and Powerfield 12). I also have two (2) Energy ES8 subs. Have a cheap Pioneer A/V receiver that I will replace with a Marantz SR 5008. Have a Hafler DH-200 amp. Now, I need advice from you Home Theater experts!

Should I use my three subs OR build a IB Sub manifold system with two (2) Dayton Audio 15" drivers and my Hafler??? I am generally not too much into experimental audio but the IB stuff is intriguing and could be installed before home construction is completed. I basically can't decide if the IB concept is for real and represents a legimitate alternative to commercial subs. Just hard to imagine a simple homemade wood box with drivers can outpreform commercial subs with years of design and engineering. I am pumped either way but just have a decision to make.

 

[tonyvdb]

The challenge with IB subs is you can't move them if placement becomes non ideal. Sub placement is crucial in a room and is impossible to predict how they will react once furniture is in place and walls are up. Generally it's better to have a sub that can be moved around. That said 4 subs placed with two up front and two in the rear can give great results so IB can work.

 

[Talley]

and to my understanding you want to have subs in multiples of 2.

one sub, or two, or four, or eight, or sixteen.

not 3.

 

[trippigs]

Didn't know three subs was problematic. I did know you need a even number of drivers in the IB system. I actually do have a fourth commercial sub (an old Yamaha) but didn't plan on using it). Thanks for the input.

 

[tonyvdb]

The other issue is you have mixed matched subs, the issue with that is you can't blend them together without having peaks and nulls because each sub has a very different frequency response. I would start by picking two matching subs and see how that works. 4 is overkill in my opinion.
There are many Comertial subs that sound fantastic. But my personal take is that getting them from Internet direct companies like SVS or HSU gives you far bigger bang for buck.

Do you have a budget in mind?

 

[trippigs]

Well I could build the IB sub system for ~$300...experimental and fun but inexpensive. I've not thought about, nor do I really want to, buying another commercial sub....kinda been there and done that feeling.

 

[Insearchof]

There are many Comertial subs that sound fantastic. But my personal take is that getting them from Internet direct companies like SVS or HSU gives you far bigger bang for buck.

^^^Agree. If you've never heard any of the offerings from SVS, HSU, Rythmik or the some of the other ID sub companies, you owe it to yourself to at least audition them.
They can be a step or 2 above anything box stores or even some high end audio stores will try to sell you.
For what they can do and how they sound, many of the ID company's prices make the decision easy.

 

[tonyvdb]

IB for $300 won't give you much in my opinion. But given your budget DIY is going to be your only option if you want anything decent.

 

[trippigs]

$300 is approximate but it would buy four(4) Dayton Audio DC 380-8 drivers (15"). I already have the wood and the Hafler amp. The minimal cost is one thing that appeals to me. I am just leery of ending up with a poorly performing sub system...and more extra stereo stuff I don't need. I fully recognize that commercial subs cost considerable more.

 

[Tonto]

Isn't that a 100 watt/ch stereo amp? I think you'll need a lot more power to drive them.

 

[trippigs]

AAHHH...they are rated @ 100watts. I didn't know how to calculate watts to each if they share an amp. Thanks...this is good information.

 

[willis7469]

Fwiw, I have 3subs in my system, and while not perfect, my results are great. Yes it took a lot of tweaking, but was worth it. Also, if you feel like "been there,done that" with commercial subs, I think maybe you haven't tried the right one. As said above, you owe it to yourself to try. SVS for example. 45 in home trial, free shipping both ways, 5yr warranty. Agree with Tony, and tonto. 300 bucks in drivers, and an amp that's not powerful enough will surely leave you wanting more. Plus the pile of extra stereo equipment you didn't want, will possibly be junk. And you won't be able to move them around the room. IB is great, but it has to be done right.

 

[trippigs]

Yes, the amp is rated @ 100wpc into 8 ohms.... some say the power was under rated. Is this math correct... 2 drivers in parallel is 200 wpc into 4 ohms. 4 drivers in parallel is 400 wpc into 2 ohms. I find little information about stability @ 2 ohms so I would not chance it.

 

[trippigs]

I completely understand that there are much better commercial subwoofers than what I currently have.... and there will immediately be better ones out there if I were to buy the "best" one available right now! I am just testing the waters to decide if I should just use the commercial subs I already have or experiment with an IB sub system. Want to take advantage of new room construction if I go with IB sub. Your opinion.... would a single manifold with two (2) Dayton Audio drivers as referenced above possibly be adequate for the room as I have described?

 

[Insearchof]

I completely understand that there are much better commercial subwoofers than what I currently have.... and there will immediately be better ones out there if I were to buy the "best" one available right now! I am just testing the waters to decide if I should just use the commercial subs I already have or experiment with an IB sub system. Want to take advantage of new room construction if I go with IB sub. Your opinion.... would a single manifold with two (2) Dayton Audio drivers as referenced above possibly be adequate for the room as I have described?

Using the Hafler amp to drive them? Probably not. Depends on your expectations. With a 100wpc @ 8 ohms and 2 of those drivers you mentioned earlier you'll probably be hard pressed to pressurize your 2500 cuft room with those.

 

[trippigs]

OK. Would wiring the drivers in parallel make a meaningful difference?

 

[tonyvdb]

If you do that you reduce the output to 50wats per channel so that would be way to little.

 

[trippigs]

How about in series??

 

[tonyvdb]

Ok sorry, let me clarify. If you run them in series you increase the ohms meaning you reduce the amount of power that the amp will supply to each speaker. So your 100 watt amp becomes only a 50 watt amp

When you wire in parallel you reduce the resistance and the lower you go the closer to a short you have. Anything below 4 ohms on most amps will cook it

 

[trippigs]

Tonyvdb...I appreciate your help. Given that series wiring cuts power in half, is it correct that parallel wiring doubles the power? If so, does this mean my Hafler would deliver 200 watts to each driver. I am still learning!