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Discussion Starter #1
I'm a bit of a newbie and Mike P has helped a bunch already:

1. What is the exact cut out size for the maelstrom?

2. What is the reccomended watt power for an amp?

3. If I use a hpf for the low end, is it possible that Audyssey MulitEQ XT will be enough to EQ 1-2 of these beasts?

And finally (sorry lied about 3) - If an SVS PB13 Ultra is having a hard time with my odd shaped 1900 cubic feet room and an hsu vtf-3 mk3 had an even harder time, Is it likely that I can get by with a single Maelstrom in an LLT?
 

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Re: 3 Maestrom Questions

Ok....

#1. The OD is 18.5" but wait to cut your box until you have a driver. It is always nice to have the physical part on hand to test-fit.

#2. The EP2500 is a very popular amp. It is rated at 2400W into 4-Ohms bridged and that is a pretty good fit. I have people using anywhere from the 1000W plate amps to the 3000W pro amps. I don't have any thermal failures at this point but you can mechanically overdrive it using amps at the top end of that spectrum.

#3. I don't have an Audyssey product on hand nor have I used one. If it has a variable subsonic filter that can be set, that is all you need in terms of driver protection. It needs to be usable under the port tuning you choose. In terms of it's EQ capability, I don't use them so I am the wrong person to guide you on that choice.

In terms of comparisons with other subs, I don't have an SVS to compare with but there isn't a 12"-13" sub made that can even come close to comparing to the output you can get from a Maelstrom. Our Shiva-X (12" sub that is very capable) is a toy in comparison. You are in a totally different category in terms of output potential and the difference isn't small. That isn't a knock on those other brands, it is just the reality of the size of drivers you are comparing, the power used in the system and the overall physics involved.

Kevin Haskins
Exodus Audio
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Re: 3 Maestrom Questions

I am having someone else cut the holes so I won't see the woofer first so I need to know exact measurements unfortunetly.

I will probably sell the SVS and go for one sono for now then get another maelstrom and behringer when I can.

Could I get 2 mals and power them with one behringer for now or should I just take it one at a time. As far as subsonic filter, no it does not have one, I will probably get an external low pass filter.

Thanks Kevin.
 

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Re: 3 Maestrom Questions

I believe the cutout i used to hold the driver is 16 3/4" and the outer baffle that allows the driver to be recessed has a 18.5" hole. It might be a 1/8" smaller than that.

I am currently running a sealed dual mal-x with one ep2500. Gain is set all the way up on the ep2500 and each channel is running one driver. My SMS-1 is providing eq. I don't think it is really possible for me to overdrive the mal-x's with one ep2500. Unless your EQ is really good, I'd recommend using just one at the moment.

If you go sealed, it is less problematic. Also, my room is something like 3500 cubic ft and I am very content. Plus, I am not even driving them to near their limits.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Re: 3 Maestrom Questions

Thanks man. You are right I do need both those numbers. Hopefully kevin or someone with one can do me a huge favor and check quick. I could possibly buy the maelstom first but really wanted to get the process started on the the end caps and recessed cutout

I am not going sealed but maybe you are right and pushing one hard is better than throttling two.
 

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Re: 3 Maestrom Questions

i just measured them before i posted. the smaller number provides a snug fit and the larger does not allow for the provided gasket. I doubled up on my plywood so that the driver, even when driven, wouldn't extend past the face of the sub. i then used closed cell foam to make a air tight seal.

hope this helps.

As big as my build is, ported would have been way bigger. honestly, for a room your size, one will be fine. you save the cost on one amp, materials, and drivers. Sorry Kevin. You can always add one more. besides, you may have some issues eq'ing your sub in such a small room. I have so much bass, I ended up putting mine in the back of the room in the middle. no corner loading for me. plus, i just pulled down the peaks versus boosting. once that was done, it was quite nice sounding!
 

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Re: 3 Maestrom Questions

Yesterday I made the cutouts for my Mal-x. I used 18.5 and 16.5 which I got from somewhere online. The 18.5 was sung but the 16.5 was too small. I had to route it out a bit to get it to fit. Don't know what the exact size was I settled on, I'd guess it would be right around 16.75
 

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Re: 3 Maestrom Questions

The 16.75" should be right. You can even go a little larger but I'd take it no larger than 17".

Good points from everyone. One is a lot of output, even sealed. I have people running multiple ported, PRs and sealed so how much output is necessary varies by the individual and the room. For me, I think that even one is kind of crazy.

Believe it or not, I've had complaints about the Maelstrom having too much output but never anyone who has said it doesn't have enough. :bigsmile: For the most part, it should be the last sub you ever need to purchase (in terms of upgrading).

Kevin Haskins
Exodus Audio
 

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Re: 3 Maestrom Questions

there is still room at 16.75. if you use t-nuts, you'll have enough material to seat them. for your space, go sealed for simplicity.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Re: 3 Maestrom Questions

Ok so at 16.75 I will be able to put the sub in and them screw it in further out. I am having elemental designs do the wood work. They are a great company and know I am using your driver but are still willing to help me.
 

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Re: 3 Maestrom Questions

well, they are making money doing their thing. are you using screws or t-nuts to install the driver?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Re: 3 Maestrom Questions

well, they are making money doing their thing. are you using screws or t-nuts to install the driver?
From a sample picture I saw of a project like mine I believe they sent that customer t-nuts but I can always nchange little details like that if it is better.
 

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Re: 3 Maestrom Questions

it looks like they just screwed the driver in. I have no experience with mdf, but you only have so many times before the mdf won't hold a screw.

people on this site have mixed feelings about t-nuts. I used them but I purchased mine with a fine thread at a local supply house and didn't have any problems.
 

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Re: 3 Maestrom Questions

I prefer using wood screws. T-nuts are kind of a pain to work with. If you strip a hole in the MDF, you just rotate the driver and start some new holes.

Kevin Haskins
Exodus Audio
 

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Re: 3 Maestrom Questions

You can also put a few drops of hot CA glue down each hole with the driver removed, to harden the threads to an almost steel strength.

Practice first!
 
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