$300 budget for Driver and Amp. Need suggestions!

6305 Views 43 Replies 7 Participants Last post by bdrrusty, Aug 21, 2009

Shicks18

Discussion Starter · Aug 17, 2009

I am building my first DIY sub and need suggestions on the best combo for a driver and amp <$300. Either can be used, I would prefer a new driver however. I have plenty of room for a big cabinet, and have woodshop experience.

I will be building a sealed cabinet, and would be open to a passive or active sub. Whatever will help out the budget the most!
Oh yea, I am probably 70/30 for Music/HT
Thanks.

1 - 20 of 44 Posts

Mike P.

· #2 · Aug 17, 2009

What will you use the sub for, strictly music, home theater, or both?

Shicks18

Discussion Starter · #3 · Aug 17, 2009

70% music, 30% home theater. thanks

Mike P.

· #4 · Aug 17, 2009

The Dayton RSS390HO-4 $150.80 with free shipping:

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=295-469

And the Bash 300 plate amp, $149.87 with free shipping:

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=300-750

Slightly over your budget, but well worth it for what you get.

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Shicks18

Discussion Starter · #5 · Aug 17, 2009

Thanks. How would that compare to getting a Shiva-X and bash 300? Could I get good results driving a shiva with a bash 300?

FYI: I am currently using an HSU STF-2 sub, which I plan to sell. I am looking for a nice upgrade over this.

Mike P.

· #6 · Aug 17, 2009

The RSS390HO would have a 4 db advantage over the Shiva-X from 30 hz on down.

Shicks18

Discussion Starter · #7 · Aug 17, 2009 (Edited)

Ok sounds great, so did you configure those settings with a 5.6 net cubic foot cabinet? I was planning on something maybe 4.7 cu. ft. net or so. Would that be adequate, what would you recommend?

Edit: would a cabinet with these dimensions be good? : 25"w x 30"h x 18"d

Mike P.

· #8 · Aug 17, 2009

Ok sounds great, so did you configure those settings with a 5.6 net cubic foot cabinet?

Yes. 5.6 net cu.ft would have a Q of .706, 4.7 cu.ft would have a Q of .743, not much difference.

25"w x 30"h x 18"d external measurements would have an internal volume of 6.34 cu.ft., which would be about 6 cu.ft. net. Here is an enclosure calculator to help you figure out the dimensions for the size that you want.

http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/enclosure-volume-calculator/

Shicks18

Discussion Starter · #9 · Aug 17, 2009

I used that calculator. I had factored in 700 inches^3 for bracing and around .20ft^3 for the driver. I couldn't find exact measurements. Left me with net cu. ft. of 5.79ft^3.

Anyway, for something around 5ft^3, how much fiberglass insulation would you recommend?

Shicks18

Discussion Starter · #10 · Aug 17, 2009 (Edited)

Hey Mike, I am using WinISD Pro and typed in the Dayton HF 15" Parameters and couldn't get close to what you spec'd. Am I doing something wrong? I followed the input directions from the WinISD Help tutorial.

I got the same Cubic Ft size and Hz and Qtc as you showed, but my SPL isn't close to that.

Mike P.

· #11 · Aug 17, 2009

I thought you were going with 4.7 cu. ft. That is the reason I mentioned using the calculator as a 6.3 cu. ft. box would have been to big.

Here's the file for the Dayton.

View attachment Dayton RSS390HF-4 .wdr

Shicks18

Discussion Starter · #12 · Aug 17, 2009

Okay, I have to apologize. I am all over the place!!! To clear things up...

1) I decided to go with the 5.646ft^3 box that is shown in WinISD as my cabinet. The dimensions will be 20x37x18

2) I downloaded that Dayton file for WinISD and still can't get the specs to match yours. Are you using a decibel gain or some sort of high pass filter? If so, what specific ones so I can add them. Sorry, I am not too familiar with WinISD so I will need your help.

3) With those dimensions that I just showed you, what kind of internal bracing do you recommend?

Shicks18

Discussion Starter · #13 · Aug 18, 2009

Any help anyone? At least someone's input about internal bracing? I was thinking of doing 5 pegs of 3/4" x 3/4" x 16 1/2" running through the cabinet at the top and another baffle on the inside.

Will that work well?

Mike P.

· #14 · Aug 18, 2009

2. 300 watts input power, then you add a 2nd order HPF at 17.7 hz. Next add a Parametric EQ with the center frequency at 27.5 hz, a Gain of 1 db and a Q of 1.0.

Window pane bracing is popular, side to side and front to back. The front to back piece would have a cutout for the depth of the sub.

Shicks18

Discussion Starter · #15 · Aug 18, 2009 (Edited)

Do you have a link that I could see what your talking about? Thank you so much for your time and patience with me. I am learning a lot!

Edit: Also, how does the SPL Frequency chart of the 15" Dayton HF compare to this SVS PB10ISD? Link: http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/volume_11_4/svs-pb10-subwoofer-10-2004.html

Mike P.

· #16 · Aug 18, 2009

To apply a HPF and also the boost that the Bash 300 amp has, click on the EQ/Filter tab. Click on Add and select Highpass. Enter the numbers as stated in post #14. Click on Add again and the filter will be applied. Click on Add and select Parameteric EQ. Enter the numbers and click on Add. The EQ is now applied. Thereis a tutorial on WinISD here:

http://www.hometheatershack.com/for...wnload-detailed-guide-how-use-winisd-pro.html

Depending on how much room gain you get with the Dayton, it should outperform the SVS.

Shicks18

Discussion Starter · #17 · Aug 18, 2009

I ended up getting the WinISD part to work. Thanks.

Back to the Dayton vs SVS shootout. Will there be substantial performance upgrades over the SVS?

Shicks18

Discussion Starter · #18 · Aug 19, 2009

Blue prints of first sealed sub... need input!

I just finished drawing up a blue print of a sealed sub I am going to build. I will be using a 15" Dayton RSS390HF-4 and Bash 300 Watt Plate Amp as my components. The cabinet's dimensions are 20 x 18 x 37 (length x width x height). With internal bracing and components my net cubic feet inside the cabinet will be around 5.7, give or take. Here are 2 pictures of my blue prints:

I wanted to get some feedback on these designs. The quality isn't all that great, I had a of a time getting these uploaded. Anyway, I wanted to make sure the enclosure looked good, the bracing was fine, and that this design will help maximize the overall quality of the sub! Oh yea, the material is .75" thick MDF.

Thanks in advance!

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4

hddummy

· #19 · Aug 19, 2009

Re: Blue prints of first sealed sub... need input!

I would suggets that all your braces look like the one you have in the bottom rather than those little stick cross members. Also, I would put another horizontal brace just above the woofer and a pair of vertical ribs (about 3 iches high) on either side of the Amp cutout.

Box size looks about right for that driver, although you could reach excursion limits at about 180W. You could reduce the size of the box some if you stuff it.

Overall, it looks good...I'm sure it is going to rock!

Shicks18

Discussion Starter · #20 · Aug 19, 2009 (Edited)

Re: Blue prints of first sealed sub... need input!

Thanks for the input! I am confused as to what you mean by vertical ribs??

Also, I looked at WinISD and it will hit excursion at 250 watts. I will be stuffing the box with some fiberbglass insulation from home depot. How much will the stuffing reduce the driver from reaching excursion?

Edit: Here is the WinISD for the driver:

How will this sub compare to the SVS PB10?

http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/volume_11_4/svs-pb10-subwoofer-10-2004.html

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