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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am building my first DIY sub and need suggestions on the best combo for a driver and amp <$300. Either can be used, I would prefer a new driver however. I have plenty of room for a big cabinet, and have woodshop experience.

I will be building a sealed cabinet, and would be open to a passive or active sub. Whatever will help out the budget the most!
Oh yea, I am probably 70/30 for Music/HT
Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks. How would that compare to getting a Shiva-X and bash 300? Could I get good results driving a shiva with a bash 300?

FYI: I am currently using an HSU STF-2 sub, which I plan to sell. I am looking for a nice upgrade over this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Ok sounds great, so did you configure those settings with a 5.6 net cubic foot cabinet? I was planning on something maybe 4.7 cu. ft. net or so. Would that be adequate, what would you recommend?

Edit: would a cabinet with these dimensions be good? : 25"w x 30"h x 18"d
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I used that calculator. I had factored in 700 inches^3 for bracing and around .20ft^3 for the driver. I couldn't find exact measurements. Left me with net cu. ft. of 5.79ft^3.

Anyway, for something around 5ft^3, how much fiberglass insulation would you recommend?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Hey Mike, I am using WinISD Pro and typed in the Dayton HF 15" Parameters and couldn't get close to what you spec'd. Am I doing something wrong? I followed the input directions from the WinISD Help tutorial.

I got the same Cubic Ft size and Hz and Qtc as you showed, but my SPL isn't close to that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Okay, I have to apologize. I am all over the place!!! To clear things up...

1) I decided to go with the 5.646ft^3 box that is shown in WinISD as my cabinet. The dimensions will be 20x37x18

2) I downloaded that Dayton file for WinISD and still can't get the specs to match yours. Are you using a decibel gain or some sort of high pass filter? If so, what specific ones so I can add them. Sorry, I am not too familiar with WinISD so I will need your help.

3) With those dimensions that I just showed you, what kind of internal bracing do you recommend?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Any help anyone? At least someone's input about internal bracing? I was thinking of doing 5 pegs of 3/4" x 3/4" x 16 1/2" running through the cabinet at the top and another baffle on the inside.

Will that work well?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Blue prints of first sealed sub... need input!

I just finished drawing up a blue print of a sealed sub I am going to build. I will be using a 15" Dayton RSS390HF-4 and Bash 300 Watt Plate Amp as my components. The cabinet's dimensions are 20 x 18 x 37 (length x width x height). With internal bracing and components my net cubic feet inside the cabinet will be around 5.7, give or take. Here are 2 pictures of my blue prints:





I wanted to get some feedback on these designs. The quality isn't all that great, I had a of a time getting these uploaded. Anyway, I wanted to make sure the enclosure looked good, the bracing was fine, and that this design will help maximize the overall quality of the sub! Oh yea, the material is .75" thick MDF.

Thanks in advance!
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
Re: Blue prints of first sealed sub... need input!

Thanks for the input! I am confused as to what you mean by vertical ribs??

Also, I looked at WinISD and it will hit excursion at 250 watts. I will be stuffing the box with some fiberbglass insulation from home depot. How much will the stuffing reduce the driver from reaching excursion?

Edit: Here is the WinISD for the driver:



How will this sub compare to the SVS PB10?

http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/volume_11_4/svs-pb10-subwoofer-10-2004.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Sweet. And just 1 long port would do the trick?

24x38x22

.75in material thickness
800 in ^3 bracing
290 in ^3 port volume (5" diameter x 14.78" length)
.25 driver volume
1
driver

net cubic feet = 8.862

Those dimensions seem okay?
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
SWEEEET! Im working up a sketch now will post when im done.

Looks like I will have the port coming through the very top of the cabinet. The driver will be front firing, towards the bottom of the cabinet, and the plate amp on the rear side.

That all sound okay?
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
OOOK. Here is my finished blue print. Let me know what you experts think! I the baffling in the middle I had to cut in half or else it would come in contact with the pvc pipe. Suggestions are welcome, and needed!



Thanks!

edit: Grr, came up small let me fix it...
 

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