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Ok sounds great, so did you configure those settings with a 5.6 net cubic foot cabinet?
Yes. 5.6 net cu.ft would have a Q of .706, 4.7 cu.ft would have a Q of .743, not much difference.

25"w x 30"h x 18"d external measurements would have an internal volume of 6.34 cu.ft., which would be about 6 cu.ft. net. Here is an enclosure calculator to help you figure out the dimensions for the size that you want.

http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/enclosure-volume-calculator/
 

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2. 300 watts input power, then you add a 2nd order HPF at 17.7 hz. Next add a Parametric EQ with the center frequency at 27.5 hz, a Gain of 1 db and a Q of 1.0.

Window pane bracing is popular, side to side and front to back. The front to back piece would have a cutout for the depth of the sub.
 

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To apply a HPF and also the boost that the Bash 300 amp has, click on the EQ/Filter tab. Click on Add and select Highpass. Enter the numbers as stated in post #14. Click on Add again and the filter will be applied. Click on Add and select Parameteric EQ. Enter the numbers and click on Add. The EQ is now applied. Thereis a tutorial on WinISD here:

http://www.hometheatershack.com/for...wnload-detailed-guide-how-use-winisd-pro.html

Depending on how much room gain you get with the Dayton, it should outperform the SVS.
 

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1. A couple inches thick glued to the walls of the enclosure. Another option would be egg crate foam sold as a mattress pad at WalMart for $15-$20. Much easier to work with.

2. I've always used a glue gun with hot glue to glue egg crate foam. Others have used 3M spray on adhesive. Make sure you reads the label on proper use, you have to spray both the cabinet wall and the insulation.

3. Wood glue and screws can be used. For screws use 15 inch long coarse thread drywall screws. You have to drill a pilot hole and countersink first so the MDF doesn't split. Do some test holes on a couple pieces of scrap MDF first until you get it right. The pilot hole needs to be a hair smaller then the shank of the screw.
 
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