I am building my first DIY sub and need suggestions on the best combo for a driver and amp <$300. Either can be used, I would prefer a new driver however. I have plenty of room for a big cabinet, and have woodshop experience.
I will be building a sealed cabinet, and would be open to a passive or active sub. Whatever will help out the budget the most!
Oh yea, I am probably 70/30 for Music/HT
Thanks.
SWEEEET! Im working up a sketch now will post when im done.
Looks like I will have the port coming through the very top of the cabinet. The driver will be front firing, towards the bottom of the cabinet, and the plate amp on the rear side.
I would try to have the port down firing but then you would have to add some sort of legs to give the port clearance. I also read somewhere that a down firing port can also minimize port related noises.
Mike makes good point about watching that nothing get dropped down the port if you place it on top. If you are going to have it on top I would really recommend some sort of grill to protect from anything falling in.
There won't be any port related noises with this setup with an air speed that's maximum 16 m/s at 18 hz. As mentioned above, a grill over the port would be a good idea.
OOOK. Here is my finished blue print. Let me know what you experts think! I the baffling in the middle I had to cut in half or else it would come in contact with the pvc pipe. Suggestions are welcome, and needed!
Woo Hoo! Going to start working it on it shortly. My VERY last questions (I promise!):
1) How much fiberbglass insulation do you recommend?
2) What kind of glue do you recommend?
3) Is it okay to screw things together? (I never really noticed many screws on people's subs)
1. A couple inches thick glued to the walls of the enclosure. Another option would be egg crate foam sold as a mattress pad at WalMart for $15-$20. Much easier to work with.
2. I've always used a glue gun with hot glue to glue egg crate foam. Others have used 3M spray on adhesive. Make sure you reads the label on proper use, you have to spray both the cabinet wall and the insulation.
3. Wood glue and screws can be used. For screws use 15 inch long coarse thread drywall screws. You have to drill a pilot hole and countersink first so the MDF doesn't split. Do some test holes on a couple pieces of scrap MDF first until you get it right. The pilot hole needs to be a hair smaller then the shank of the screw.
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