Home Theater Forum and Systems banner

1 - 20 of 22 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Ok I have a 53FDX20B
I puchased and installed the IC's from the kit.
The kit also came with two 4.7ohm 1watt resistors.
I am not finding any info that mentions resistors with the 4.7ohm value.
I did find a list on another site and I was wondering if you could shine some light on it for me?
It says to replace the fallowing with for a STK392-160E:
RK42 3.3OHM 1WATT
RK46 1.8OHM 1WATT
RK50 3.3OHM 1WATT
RK54 1.8OHM 1WATT
RK58 3.9OHM 1WATT
RK62 2.2OHM 1WATT
I had purchased them and started to install them when I saw what came in my new kit. So I started todo some more research and found this site. I saw you had posted a link that showed the 150 series IC's. I also noticed the resistor values on that one was different also.

What resistors should I have on those RK locations. I want todo it right and not let the smoke out of my tv.
 

·
Plain ole user
Joined
·
11,121 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thank you that is the info that I needed.
I actually found it at matelectronics.
Not on your list but I hope they are good.
So far not scoring good point, it didn't come with any instructions.
Just a contents list.

Thanks again. I will let you know how it goes in a couple days.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Ok got the parts and installed them.
Put the board in turned tv on. tada picture.
I went into menu and the sound crackled and picture went out.
Now I have a blinking red light.

Did I fubar it?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
91 Posts
Did you apply thermal grease and tighten the STK screws?

Or the kit you got may not Hitachi original.

Try take the STKs out and disconnect the convergence yoke connectors. If your set comes on with only cocaved and non-converged picture, all you need is a Hitachi kit from encompassparts.com
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
The STK's, should I go with 150's or the 160E's.
I have heard from a few places that the 160E's are not as good as 150's.
One repair place uses only 150's because he feels there better.
What is your professional opinion?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
91 Posts
I would recomment 160E. lcaillo uses 160E all the time.

I did use 150 in a Hitachi SWX. It works but I wish I had used 160E.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
53FDX20B
ok I put the first set in and they went bad a burnt up a resistor. So I got another set from one of the recommended sites. Same thing happend. The video had worked prior to changing all of the resistors and IC's. Did I toast something else? When I turned it on it worked for about ten minutes the video went out and I got the blinking light of death. and it toasted RK62 1.8 ohm 1 watt.
 

·
Plain ole user
Joined
·
11,121 Posts
What does "it worked" mean? Was the convergence where it should be when it worked?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
I had video but the convergence was off. So I purchased one kit through a place and did all that you said for me to do. It seemed to have been a cheap set or toasted them. So I got another set and replaced the resistors from one of the places that were recommended. Seems they blew also. When they go I get a pop through the speakers, a black screen and the power light blinks. Before I install a third set is there something that I should check out?
 

·
Plain ole user
Joined
·
11,121 Posts
First, look for solder bridges, bad solder joints, other resistors that might be open, or damaged,broken traces on the board. Check to be sure you have everything connected properly and that you have your power supplies (+ and -) to the chips. Any of these mistakes could account for your problem. If none ofe them are an issue, pull the chips and do some testing. Look for d.c. offset on the inputs to the chips. If there is more than about +/-100 mV it is too much. Adjust the static position and see if it changes. If not, reset the convergence and start from scratch and see if it clears. If the d.c. is not high, reset and start over with the convergence anyway. There could be some excessive correction or corrupt data. Then install your new parts and proceed to adjust. Remember that with the chips out you will have no correction but you can run the set to test.

My guess is that you missed a resistor or you have an open fuse on one of the supplies or a bridged solder joint. These are the most common mistakes, but from a distance I am just guessing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
What do you mean by an open fuse? I have checked all of the resistors again and they all test correct within there ohm raiting. I have used a quality solder sucker from radio shack. I am getting good solder points. I will get a magnifying glass and inspect for a possible bridged solder point.

I did read in another persons post that they had RK62 heat up and toast also. What RK62? RK58 was one of the original one that blew and is known to blow.
 

·
Plain ole user
Joined
·
11,121 Posts
Open means no connection. A fuse should have nearly no resistance. When they open they will read a high resistance. There are pico fuses on the supplies to the ICs.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
ok I resoldered all new resistors that came with my new kit. I then turn on the tv and went into dicom. I seems to works (power wise). I let it sit for about five minutes no problem so far. So I am taking it out and puting in the IC's. Pray for me.

The resistors I had put in were NTE blue in color. The ones in the kit were the oem green. But were the same ratings. Could the brand have something todo with why they kept failing?
 

·
Plain ole user
Joined
·
11,121 Posts
If the values are correct it does not matter what color they are. I would triple check the values. MAT is a very poorly regarded distributor when it comes to these kinds of parts, among pros. They have not been considered to be a reliable supplier of first quality Sanyo STKs. Reread the first ten posts of the convergence thread very carefully.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
I had purchased my resistors from a local electronics store and got the IC's from MAT. But I took you advice and I got a kit from Encompass and it was only a few cents more with resistors included.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Many hours and many days have past since I have aquired this TV. But finally with some patients and your knowledge one more television has been saved from land fill.
You are awesome. If you live in oregon I would grill you a steak dinner and give you my sister.
Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
53FDX20B
New problem same tv.
It now like to turn its self on.
I curently use a power strip to turn it off.
If I don't it only takes maybe 2 minutes and it turns back on.
Any clue to why it would want todo this?
Or do I just live too close to a cemetary?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
91 Posts
There's a menu option called sth like "auto link". Turn it off.

If you unplug all your TV input connections and the auto power on is still there, then it's something else.
 
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
Top