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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well its finally time to build my sub! After weeks of playing around and getting help i finally got a design picked out and the driver ordered. I basically went from knowing nothing about subs to having a lsightly higher than nothing understanding. :) Thanks should go to MikeP, bambino, dboff01, and gperkins_1973 who all pointed me in the right directions.

So about the build
Tempest-x2 (obviously)
tuned to 18hz at 1000W

Here sthe basic out lay of the build. of not is those are all internal dimensions. i went with internal dimensions just as i wasnt sure exactly how i would finish it but still wanted to get a good start on it.



After going to the hardware store i picked out 1/2" birch for the building material. I liked the wood finish more than MDF really. Also my current speakers are boston acoustic VR1's which are a natural wood look painted black. Which might be how i finish the sub. That is still to be determined.

So heres basically where i stand! Got all the wood cut. The top and bottom are 1" wider than the box giving a "lip" of 1" all the way around. Current plans TBD on that. Had the hardware store cut the wood for me. I didn thave them cut the port pieces since i figured i could just do them. One hting i learned is that was a stupid idea, much better to have them do it with the saw as its a clean, straight cut. Mine arent bad but with just a skillsaw its not nearly as nice of cuts.

Havent glued wood before so started with the port (which are the pieces on the table). Bit messy and sloppy the first time but i learned quick! Made sure they were 90 degree too. Will see how the first piece turns out once it dries tomorrow.




Lessons learned so far

-All though good in idea for ease of cleanup. Newspaper doesnt go well with glue. One piece of wood (luckily an inside dont care about piece) got a tiny bit of newspaper stuck to it. Bare wood workbench is a much better choice.

-Having store cut all pieces is better than cutting your own unles syou have a table saw to do it with.
 

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Glad to see you have started. We learn several lessons along the way, even after the second and third builds. You will always find an easier way off doing things. Because you are only using 1/2" material it may be a good idea to use 3 pieces of wood for the baffle. The driver is at the bottom so it won't matter too much but it will look neater and give it more strength.

Will you be adding a horizontal brace too.

I had a place cut all my wood on a flatbed computer cutting saw. Every piece was 100% spot on. I agree it does save you alot of hassle which then just leaves you to cut the bracing and holes in the baffles.

Keep the pics coming and looking forward to seeing the results!

cheers

Graham
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Glad to see you have started. We learn several lessons along the way, even after the second and third builds. You will always find an easier way off doing things. Because you are only using 1/2" material it may be a good idea to use 3 pieces of wood for the baffle. The driver is at the bottom so it won't matter too much but it will look neater and give it more strength.
I thought of that. i do luckily have about 2/3rds of a sheet of the birch leftover so i can add to it. I may just keep it two but maybe go with three. The birch does offer a better "screw" into surface than mdf. Ill just decide on that one later. once i get the drive and can dryfit it together to see how it looks.

Will you be adding a horizontal brace too.
Most likely yes. If by horizontal you just mean fore/aft and not literally horizontally (ie parallel to top of box)

I had a place cut all my wood on a flatbed computer cutting saw. Every piece was 100% spot on. I agree it does save you alot of hassle which then just leaves you to cut the bracing and holes in the baffles.
Yep thats my biggest lesson learned. It was a younger kid and he seemed kind of annoyed about something (before i even got there he seemed that way) so i figured since it was just the port i could easily do it. Just comparing the cuts its easy to see i should have made him do the extra 6 cuts it took. O well a little sanding and nobody will ever know.


As for stuff still to order
The amp and HPF but i know what i want there.

Cabling. i could use some help here. Basically im going to have my onkyo 607 receiver, reckhorn B-1 (or B-2) and ep2500 amp. Then of course run it to my sub. What order should that stuff go in by the way?
actual cabling wise....i need speaker wire for inside the sub correct? To wire it in series that is. So i would go with binding posts then binding post hook it up in series? Orrrr....bit lost here im sure if i could see it all in person it would make sense. Also the onkyo 607 has what looks like standard RCA type plug. What cables to go from the receiver to ep2500? ugg could use some help here lol.

Gasketing, yay or nah? Havent really seen to much about it so whats peoples thoughts?
 

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Hi Fella,

Right cabling first, here's what I have done.

Onkyo 876 - elemental EQ.2 (HPF) - BFD (if needed) - EP4000 - subs.

I use a subwoofer cable to go from my onkyo's sub output to the input off the hpf, then I have another subwoofer cable to go from the output from the HPF to the input off the EP4000 amp with a 1/4 rca adapter that the subwoofer lead goes into. Then simply just use the speaker outputs to connect to your speaker plates on your sub/s.

I have a QED sub cable and a Mark Grant cable so I know they are good quality cables.

Wiring the sub in series is really easy. Just simply get some 12 gauge speaker cable and connect the plus on the top left side to the minus of the top righ side. Then run a cable from the bottom plus to the inside of the speaker plate which is marked plus (red) and the bottom minus to the minus (black) of the speaker plate. Its really that simple. If you are using a dual 2 ohms driver that will give you a 4 ohms rating wired in series.

If you get stuck PM me your number and I can call you if it helps.

Feel free to ask any questions.

cheers

Graham
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
well heres the latest. The slot port is all made up. One minor thing as the end of one side is about 1/16th to short. not a big deal to me as ill just fill it with putty or something. Its way in the back so nobody would ever know anyways lol. Got the bracing and the front panel cut out for the port cut. Front piece is perfect. A hair to small but after sanding it will be a nice tight fit. bracing well, i went in with a bad attitude of o nobody will ever see it. Bit tired fater working 12 hours so should have just waited. That and cutting outside in the dark more or less by flashlight was a poor choice (it was a work light not a true flahslight). Well one of the "rectangles" had me not see the line so its off a bit and more of a round part. o well nobody will see it :)

Also ordered the cables (thanks to gperkins_1973 for the help!).

Tomorrow should be able to fit up the side and front/rear panel and possibly the port! Cut the holes for the driver and glue the bottom pieces together. Now just need to order a HPF and amp and im set. (driver should arrive in the next few days)


Heres the port with the last side glued and drying. The bracing on the table and the front piece on the four wheeler. Sorry for the bad picture didnt want to move the cars out of the garage again but didnt want an all text update.

 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well mildly slow going till today! Pretty much wrapped things up on the "build" side. its now mostly just finishing work.

of note, ep4000 ordered and due wednsday the 11th, ordered an eq.2 for HPF, should be here soon. And the cables are all ordered and should be here tomorrow or monday!


As for the build

The "walls" have all been glued together. Port is done and glued, and the bracing is cut. I made some spiffy little feet that i drew up freehand more or less (saw ones like them before though). All thats left construction wise is the routing bit, then glue the bottom pieces together and attach feet, then plop the top part on. o yeah and run the internal cabling but thats not a biggie.




And the holes for the driver (o yeah it showed up!) Its a snug fit right now but after sanding it will be perfect. The holes turned out great except for one part on each that jets in a bit but is easily fixed by sanding. Not to shabby for cutting with a jigsaw!

Heres the "outter" board around the driver


And heres the "inner" board around the driver lip thingy where it screws in (for lack of a better name)



The last real issue is paint/staining. i wanted to go for a black finish that still showed the wood grain like my boston acoustic VR1's and VRC. But so far it isnt looking to good.

Heres a picture of two stained sampled and a spray painted piece on top of the VRC (for example of look desired)

The top sample (rectangle) is just Minwax Ebony stain
The sample below it is the same minwax with minwax pre-stain conditioner
The large odd shaped piece is just spray painted with a semi-flat black.
Under all that is the VRC


The sample 1 (just stain) is out. Its blotchy and doesnt look as nice as the sample with pre-stain on it.
Sample 2 doesnt look to bad grain/texture wise but it doesnt seem to want to get all black. Can still see the wood. On the third coat now so maybe a few more will help.
The spray paint doesnt actually look to bad for only 1 coat! But its rather dull looking. The finish is kind of meh compared to the stain.

Any tips/advice for this part?
 

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Hi there,

I had alot off fun with stains etc.... when I did my subs. I must have gone through about 15 samples of stains to try and match my speakers. It was a nightmare. I got great advise from a stain company in the end and it worked out fine. What stain are you using?

I used mdf but you are using plywood so I am not too sure how stain reacts to stain. It may be that you need to apply a wood conditioner first as this stops blotchy marks etc..

Let me know

cheers

Graham
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
For staining i tried both one with conditioner and one with out (sample wise).

Minwax EBONY is the stain
Minwax pre-stain conditioner is what i used for conditioning.

Still playing around but like you said i might just have to take it into a furniture store or something for recommendations. From what i have googled a black stain where you still see the wood grain is apparently bit tough to do. Some people recommend using like vingear and rusty nails (some chemical reaction).


But on the upside....should get around to doing the routing tonight or tomorrow and once thats done its just a matter of gluing the top and bottom on. But depends how tired i am, im on around 5 hours of sleep and going in for a 12 hour work day so might hold off just so im not tired. Also got all the cables and the eq.2. Just need the amp which is ~wed. Side project is building a small equipment rack out of the left over plywood. Way to much stuff just on the floor now lol.
 

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Just a thought but is that stuff and oil based stain or water based. I had nightmares with oil based stains. I used a water base stain and it went on easy with no blotching at all.

cheers

Graham
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The blotching isnt an issue on my sample that i applied the pre-stain too. The issue is more it just doesnt want to get black. It definitely colors some a nice black but you can still see the birch wood color in the grain. Might have to go try a water based. Or more than likely ill hit up a furniture store and seek their advice. Either way theres a good chance itll be in use by wednsday and staining painting will come after some time playing around with it lol
 

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Could get a regular paint and thin it down with paint thinner. then you can have the viscosity you like and rub it in like stain.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
So everything is built and i try to hook it up and...barely anything.

So i have the onkyo 607 hooked up via the rca to rca to the eq.2 via the L input (top input). Its just set to on for both switches. Then from the output (Top output) i have it going via the rca to rca cable with a 1/4" adapter into the input 1 on the ep4000. Then the ep4000 i have "driver 1" hooked up with the poisitve and negative. I did not set it up as the bridged mono. Do i have to do that?

Then from those terminals its hooked up to the driver how we talked before. Positive from ep4000 goes to positive on driver. negative next to that positive hooks up to other positive. The other negative gets the negative from the ep4000.


Problem is there is like nothing coming out of it even with both the gain on the eq2 and ep4000 all the way up. I can feel it slightly working. So what the did i do wrong lol.

The onkyo is set to "subwoofer" on. Changing gain via there changes nothing really. Going all the way to +10db. Even eliminating the eq.2 doesnt change anything. So im thinking it must be either wiring on the driver itself or something with the receiver?


By the way im using Black Hawk Down with DTS track for refernece

Read more: Home Theater Forum and Systems - HomeTheaterShack.com - o .....
 

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HI matey,

Yep you run a rca lead from the sub out of the onkyo to the left input on the EQ.2. Then run a rca lead from the left output of the EQ.2 to the EP4000 on input 1 via the rca adapter. Then wire the sub from the EP4000 as the diagram I have attached.

Make sure you have the gain on the EQ.2 on 3/4 atleast. See the manual on the elemental design site to show you this. I will dig it out if you can't find it.

If you are just using the one input on the EP4000 make sure you have the gain on input 2 all the way down and the gain on the one you are using all the way up. You can then adjust your sub trim level on the onkyo.

Also make sure your switches on the back are as this.

1 - right
2 - right
3 - right
4 - right
5 - right
6 - left
7 - left
8 - right
9 - right
10 - left

I have an onkyo 876 so you should be ok for voltage levels.

Let me know.

cheers

Graham
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Then wire the sub from the EP4000 as the diagram I have attached.


Read more: ~6cu ft slot portted Tempest-X2 build - Home Theater Forum and Systems - HomeTheaterShack.com
nothing attached that i see :)

EQ.2 i have the "subsonic" knob at just slightly past the 12 o clock position which should be ~16 or 17Hz no? The gain knob i have at ~2 o clock position. Both on switches set to on.

Here is how i have the ep4000 set.


The back switches are as you said to put them. With right being the on position. Channel 1 on the front is all the way to the right....at 30 with channel 2 being at zero.


As for the onkyo 607....all i did on it was set subwoofer to "on" in the speaker config menu. Didnt change anything else. I did do that and ran the aydyssy the first time but it didnt even pick up the sub! (which im not surprised)


Off to work so hopefully youll know what i messed up. Might have to pull the driver back out and double check the wiring but im 90% sure its correct.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Yeah i will when i get home from work tonight. Stupid holiday and having to go in for 12 hours......

And that diagram is how i hooked it up. Only thing would be if i accidentally went positive to negative but then it wouldnt produce anything would it? I knew i should test it before putting it in the box lol.
 

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Let me know for sure if your wiring is like that. the pic you sent me was correct which is how you have more than likely done it.

cheers

Graham
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
ok well good thing, got sent home from work so yay!

As for wiring here is the driver wiring. Note the wire with the strip is my positive.


looks good there. heres the front of the ep4000 and eq.2. looks good to me.


And finally the only real page i could find for setting up subs on the onkyo 607
 
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