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Elite Shackster
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Hi guys, sorry ive only just seen these posts. I could send you the plans, but the cabinet design was for ae av12x drivers which aren't made anymore, so im not sure how useful the plans would actually be.
 

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Hi guys, sorry ive only just seen these posts. I could send you the plans, but the cabinet design was for ae av12x drivers which aren't made anymore, so im not sure how useful the plans would actually be.
I'm sure AE would work something out with us or give us feedback and what could be used. Can you PM me the plans please?
 

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Elite Shackster
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I'm sure AE would work something out with us or give us feedback and what could be used. Can you PM me the plans please?
I could just add then to this thread if you like, which will save me having to do it more than once. Alternatively, if you have a chosen driver, I could modify the model to suit.
 

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I could just add then to this thread if you like, which will save me having to do it more than once. Alternatively, if you have a chosen driver, I could modify the model to suit.
That would be epic. Thank you very much. And yes please post it here. Possible driver configurations are 2X Dayton 12" REFERENCE HF 8 OHM using a Hypex 700 watt w/ DSP plate amplifier or JL audio 12W6v2-D4. The reason for the JL audio is that they are discontinued and I can buy them for $315 each for the 12" version. Other possible considerations are the GR-Research 12" driver or the Creative Sound Solutions 12" SDX12.

Since you were able to design and build this thing, what would you recommend?
 

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Elite Shackster
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The natural sized cabinet for that driver is about 200 litres, so all in all that would make for a pretty large subwoofer. With a pair of the drivers, and modelling on 1000 watts of total power, you could make the cabinet as small as 75 litres as long as you eq it properly. If thats your chosen driver, which way do you want to go with the cabinet design?
 

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Of the acoustic elegance drivers that are currently available is there one that would work in this cabinet?
I would prefer the acoustic elegance but if not the Dayton would do fine.
If I'm using the the Dayton I'd go with the 75 liter design. I don't want a big sub. I already have a big vented 18" sub I want to get rid of. I custom built it.
 

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Elite Shackster
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AE dont make any HT focused drivers any more, or at least they didnt last time I checked. I'd also not be willing to put them forward personally as I have no idea as to how reliable they are in terms of delivery etc.

Would you like me to go ahead and build the 3D model of the 75 litre design?
 

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Ok then I guess its the Dayton Audio SA1000 for me. What about the internal draft design? Is there any structural support? Also what are the measurements of the baffle? I want to use Baltic Birch Plywood. All they have near me is 3/4" thick. for the subwoofer baffles should I used 1.5" thick and the rest 3/4"?
 

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Elite Shackster
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The Dayton amp would work well, but Id say get the stand alone version. You can get Melamine MDF, which is what I use, and the design I have done is intended to use 1" material. Ive not included an internal brace as the design is at the limit of how compact it can be and there isnt really an allowance for any of it to be taken away. Bear in mind this design will push the drivers to their limits of capability, and this system will be 2-3db on the AE version, which could handle over twice the power. Ive only just seen your post, so the model I have already done isnt really based on what you have asked for here, but as its already done I may as well post it now. If its really not going not work for you we can look at a redesign if you like.
 

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Elite Shackster
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Personally, I would probably consider the SDX12 for this, it would take 2KW of power and perform at least as well as the AE drivers did.
 

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Personally, I would probably consider the SDX12 for this, it would take 2KW of power and perform at least as well as the AE drivers did.
I'm trying to keep it as efficient as possible. Less is more for me. 1000 watts and under. The Dayton SA1000 is the standalone version. I want to avoid MDF. It's too heavy and hard to sand and paint. I'll just get a 3/4" thick baltic birch and add another layer of 1/4" thick baltic birch. Should the baffles for the drivers be thicker, like 2" and everything else 1" thick?
 
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