Home Theater Forum and Systems banner

41 - 51 of 51 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,798 Posts
How would you attach the R60 if you go that route?
I am thinking of making a 2"x4" frame for the single R60, going from one wall to the other, and floor to ceiling, and then boxing the outer frame to 2'x4' sections. Once that is done I would stuff the chambers with the R60, and then staple Black Commando Cloth over the whole wall.

If I do the 9" fluffy... I would space out a false wall from the wall, staple the fluffy to the frame, cover this with thin rubber (to avoid to much high frequency absorption), and then staple the Black Commando Cloth to cover the insulation.
 

·
HTS Reviewer
Joined
·
1,760 Posts
Discussion Starter #44
I have some ideas for changing up the front of the room a bit, most likely moving the curtain wall (and TV) out into the a bit to match up with the mains which I pulled away from the wall a bit. Something along the lines of what Ron has suggested above.

In the meantime, I still have some nulls that I'm hoping to correct with treatments. I ordered a set of Tri-Traps for the rear corners and some hooks to convert my original wall panels to ceiling panels.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,798 Posts
I have some ideas for changing up the front of the room a bit, most likely moving the curtain wall (and TV) out into the a bit to match up with the mains which I pulled away from the wall a bit. Something along the lines of what Ron has suggested above.

In the meantime, I still have some nulls that I'm hoping to correct with treatments. I ordered a set of Tri-Traps for the rear corners and some hooks to convert my original wall panels to ceiling panels.
What we ended up doing was... Framing out the wall with 2x4's, and then stuffing R60 into the cavities. We then covered the whole wall with black commando cloth. :T
 

·
HTS Reviewer
Joined
·
1,760 Posts
Discussion Starter #46
My GIK Tri Traps came today and I finished mounting some 2" thick panels at the first reflection points overhead. Too late to listen/measure by the time I was done but hopefully I'll have a chance later this week. The Tri Traps are temporarily propped up on tables I already had in the corners. Once I find the best spots I'll do something more permanent. I think I have enough height to stack two in each corner, so I'm keeping that option open as well.

The ceiling panels are the ones that used to be on the side walls. They're hacked together and don't have good straight edges, so they look a little funny for now. My plan is to get some frames to put them in so they look nice and square. Bryan, if you're still here - can I order the cloth GIK uses for their panels? I'd like to wrap my DIY panels to match the ones from GIK.
 

·
HTS Reviewer
Joined
·
1,760 Posts
Discussion Starter #49
Update and pics. I was still getting a lot of slap echo in the back of the room and felt bass response could still be improved, so I ordered a second set of Tri-Traps and another pair of 244 panels. Traps are stacked two in each corner and each side wall has four 244 panels. Haven't taken measurements yet, but will be doing it soon for my Anthem MRX-710 setup and review. I will take treatments out to get a "before" measurement too. I have new frames for the ceiling panels, I just need to assemble them with the other spare 705 panels and get some of the GIK fabric to wrap them. Stay tuned for some graphs.

 

·
HTS Reviewer
Joined
·
1,760 Posts
Discussion Starter #51
Just read through your thread. Some excellent stuff here. Looking forward to your upcoming measurements.
Thanks, it has definitely been a learning process. If I have the opportunity to build another HT in the future, I'll start with proper room treatments rather than the flimsy DIY panels I originally made.


Here's a question for the experts. I'm planning to add a slanted section to the left wall (when facing the TV) to match the slant on the right and back walls. I don't plan to demo the existing wall since it's all blown insulation above and I don't want the mess. As a result, I'll end up with a cavity between the existing wall and the new slanted section. Should I expect that to cause any acoustic problems if I just leave it hollow i.e. unwanted resonance, etc? Is it worth trying to fill with some kind of insulation? Would that act as a bass trap or just be a waste of time/money?

If you look in the picture above the black curtain you can see the angled section to the right, but not the left. I'm just planning to make it symmetrical from left to right.
 
41 - 51 of 51 Posts
Top