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Discussion Starter #1
I'm toying around with starting my first DIY speaker project. I put together a "frankensub" a few years back using an old M&K subwoofer enclosure and a Rythmik f12 kit. It was hardly DIY, but I had a lot of fun and the sub rocks!

I'm thinking about taking the plunge and starting a DIY 2 way active floor standing speaker project. It all started with the idea that I wanted to play around with active crossovers. I first thought about buying some old used speakers and modding them to be actively crossed over, but then it dawned on me that I might get better value going purely DIY. I'm a total novice in DIY, so at this point I am kind of just brain storming, figuring to figure out what I need to learn, getting some opinions, etc...

I'd love to end up with something similar to the Tekton Lore: http://www.tektondesign.com/lore.html or even Enzo, except I am thinning about using a Air Motion tweeter instead of ring radiators.

Could I pull something similar to those off using these drivers?:

http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-amtpro-4-air-motion-transformer-tweeter-4-ohm--275-094

http://www.parts-express.com/eminence-delta-10a-10-midrange-driver-8-ohm--290-412 (one or two of these per speaker)

With a MiniDSP 2x4 doing active crossover duty.

Maybe crossed over around 1800k? Is it possible to get usable output from that mid bass driver bellow 60hz with the right enclosure, or is the listed freq response for the driver as low as it will ever go regardless of enclosure? I would probably pair these up with my DIY Rythmik f12 so sub bass is not a huge priority (that said it would be nice to be able to use them full range too if its possible).

Any thought, comments, concerns are welcome, thanks!
 

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Hi Nick,

With the minidsp, just about any combo is possible. One thing to note is that with active, the need to match driver sensitivities is somewhat relieved, unlike a passive design where it dominates the system overall sensitivity.
I personally wouldn't run a 10 to 1.8k. That tweeter seems capable of maybe a bit lower, 1.5k-ish, which you can experiment with the minidsp. I'd lean more towards one or two 8's, maybe the new Dayton RS225p's for such a tower, unless you want very high output, in which case something like the Delta 10 might be better. Though it would be a stretch getting those to 60hz.

cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I read a little (more like glanced over really) of Lance Dickasons book, Loudspeaker Design Cookbook, and realized I have a LOT to learn. It seems like going active with the MiniDSPs can shift some of the design concerns you would have with a passive design can be death with in the digital domain. That said I'm sure its always better to start with a well designed speaker to DSP then a speaker that has serious design flaws that need to be fixed...

All things being equal, isn't it better to have one midrange driver opposed to mulitiple smaller ones?

Also, is the resonant frequency of a driver the lowest it will accurately go, regardless of enclosure (66hz for the Delta 10)?
 

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I read a little (more like glanced over really) of Lance Dickasons book, Loudspeaker Design Cookbook, and realized I have a LOT to learn.
Yes, I've been doing it for 30+ years and I'm still learning.:)

All things being equal, isn't it better to have one midrange driver opposed to mulitiple smaller ones?
Those are options/choices, neither necessarily being worse or better. One larger mid means a bit more beaming at HF, maybe harder to match the directional characteristics of the tweeter, may have to cross lower.
Multiple small mids will negate each of those, but there will be interference (lobing) with multiple drivers.

Also, is the resonant frequency of a driver the lowest it will accurately go, regardless of enclosure (66hz for the Delta 10)?
No, but you generally don't want to use a driver near/below resonance/venting frequency.

cheers,
 

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I own speakers with Delta 10A drivers, they are passively crossed to the compression horn 12 dB/oct. @ 1600 Hz. That is pushing the woofer into beaming and would be the absolute upper limit. A little lower, like AJ suggested, would be better if you can get the tweeter to meet it.

I would not attempt to push the Delta 10A below 80 Hz. I cross mine over to low inductance subs at 150 Hz.
 
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