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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone!

I really hope that I'm posting this in the right spot and an area where I'll get some good assistance. I'm looking to build a subwoofer box of my own, completely custom, and I need someone who can offer advice or point me in the right direction.

I currently have:

- One plate amplifier: (Kenwood KS-303HT)
- Output Power: 50 Watts RMS at 4Ω from 40Hz to 160Hz with no more than 0.09% total harmonic distortion
- Input Sensitivity / Impedence:
- RCA-type pin-plug jack (line in): 100 mV/43 kΩ, 200 mV/43 kΩ (MONO)
- Push-type terminals: 1.8 V / 1.2 kΩ
- Turn Over Frequency: 80 Hz - 160 Hz
- Phase Switching: NORMAL, REVERSE


- Two Subwoofers:
- Kenwood T10-0953-05 (goes with Kenwood amplifier)
- 8Ω, 80 Watts Max

- An unknown model number by EastTech
- The only legible writing I can find on it is
- "FSB52B" - which continues, but is illegible after that point.
- Something that looks like "3Ω"
- Either 250 or 350 Watts Max

What I need to know is whether the (what seems to be) 3Ω subwoofer can be hooked to my amplifier safely. If it can, I would like to build a box for the two subwoofers, preferably with both enclosed internally.

If the second subwoofer can not be safely connected to the amplifier, I would like to build a box for just the one subwoofer, also preferably enclosed internally.

My preference on internal enclosure is subject to change if there is a different method that sounds better. I don't care if it's sealed or ported, I just need help with building a box that will put out deep, low bass, produce little distortion at higher volumes, and is not a gigantic size. It doesn't necessarily have to be a tiny box, just not huge. I need to know if there are any accessories that I may need, such as treble blockers (because I could still hear voices through the subwoofers sometimes when they were hooked up), or specialty tools that I'll need to buy. I would like to know how to find the perfect dimensions for the box with the combination of parts that I have, taking the inside diameter, and the internal space that the subwoofers and amplifier will take up as well. I'd like to know about port diameter, interior chambers...

Bottom line, I just want the perfect subwoofer enclosure that takes every aspect into consideration. Help with this is greatly appreciated!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
No, I don't have the cabinet, unfortunately. Only what is mentioned. Also, I believe the stock cabinet may not have reached the full potential of the subwoofer, anyway. What about the rest of my inquiries? Any advice?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks a lot. Those dimensions will really help. I assume the 3Ω subwoofer will not safely connect to this amplifier. Is it possible to install a second sub in the box without hooking it up for added bass? How does that work?
 

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The EastTech can't be used for anything because there is no information on it.

As for the Kenwood driver and amp, build a 14 inch cube out of 3/4 inch material and install a 3 inch round port 7 inches long. You'll end up with a 1 cu.ft. box net volume tuned to 45 hz. That's about the best you can do with these components.
 

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That's really good advise, although never liked cubes; seems like ploy to increase standing waves. I typically try to make each side 2" shorter/longer.
How significant is 2" relative to the wavelengths we are talking about with subwoofers?
 

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It's the box, not the 30' long bass wave.

All boxes ring like bells (echo); different lengths panels help a little bit.
I found angle boxes work even a little bit better, but a hassle to build, so I went back to rectangular AND use more bracing.

I know cubes are popular - is there advantage to cube/square box?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for the advice. If I build the box for these components and want to upgrade my subwoofer one day, what would be a subwoofer that would perform better with the same box and amplifier?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Also, is it possible, or rather, plausible to have the subwoofer internally mounted as in not exposed to the outside? And does it make a difference what direction the subwoofer faces when mounted?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·

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Are you looking for a full range driver speaker - or sub-woofer?

I do have a couple of sets of the FX-120's, I don't think that is what you are looking for.



What about building something like these? I'd like to make something like what BOSE does by pulling every bit of potential out of their components. I realize there is a lot more to it than just building a box.

http://zaphaudio.com/audio-speaker18.html
Or
http://diyaudioprojects.com/Speakers/Fostex-FX120-Bass-Reflex/
Or
http://diyaudioprojects.com/Speakers/Fostex-FE127E-Bass-Reflex/
Or
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I'm looking for a woofer, I'm just looking into the "transmission line" style box similar to what Bose does to pull the most potential out of it's drivers. Should I do that or just build a solid ported cube?
 

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I'm looking for a woofer, I'm just looking into the "transmission line" style box similar to what Bose does to pull the most potential out of it's drivers. Should I do that or just build a solid ported cube?
To design any proper subwoofer the T/S parameters need to be known so the driver can be modeled to see what box requirements are needed. Since we don't have the T/S parameters for the Kenwood driver the best we can do is put it in a similar sized box and tuning that it came in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I'll just build the box according to the original cabinet specifications then. Lastly, when I eventually decide to build a better speaker and subwoofer system, what is the best website to shop for components on that will include all needed T/S specifications?
 
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