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You need to make a small header so you can swing the "door" out, maybe even build a short one on the bottom so you can clear the floor/carpet, then just frame it up inside with a bit of a gap. Hing it and then find some rubber seal and use a router to cut a grove around the door outer frame and put the rubber seal in the channel, maybe a double seal. The insulate/drywall mud/tape/paint and put some sort of handle on it you could even put a door knob on it. I think you could do it for a lot less than buing a door, it might take a little time but if it were me it is what I would do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
That's a good idea. I'd still need to build a jamb for it because the studs won't be perfect and level. I'm leaning towards the hidden door as a bookcase idea. It's a bit more work but will add a huge coolness factor to the room.
 

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Why not just cut down a prehung exterior steel door of the proper width? You have a gasketed door
and the backside could be beefed up with MDF for additional mass.
 

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Alot of good ideas here. I really don't know how good you are with diy projects like this but this site is good for help when you aren't sure of the how to end of it. The site provides links to alot of sites and you can even shoot him out an email for some advice....http://www.ltdjoe.com/Woodworking_Construction_Graphi.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Why not just cut down a prehung exterior steel door of the proper width? You have a gasketed door
and the backside could be beefed up with MDF for additional mass.
The problem there is that exterior steel doors are hollow and filled with insulation or other material. It would also need a special saw blade and would probably end up getting chewed up pretty good when cutting. Then I would have to file down and re-veneer the cut end. If it were prehung (with a gasket) I'd have to cut down the jamb also. I'd probably end up messing it up pretty good in the end.
 

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That recommendation was based on what I did for my theater entry door. It will eventually be beefed up on both sides with MDF (with Green Glue) and given a second set of door seals, hidden by custom millwork. I also had to cut it down four inches to fit it under the main support beam of the house. Some tape to mark the cuts, and a jigsaw with a fine metal blade made short and easy work of cutting the door down. The cutoff bottom of the door was reinstalled by scouping out some foam core and gluing it back in.

It might not completely soundproof my dual Contrabass subwoofers, but the door won't be the weakest link in my room's sound proofing.
 
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