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I think that the house curve for a full range application might have to be more subtle (using the DEQ2496)
One consideration is that the amp will be asked to do a lot more than
80htz and below

Another consideration is that I will equalizing only down to 40htz (maybe 3db down at 35htz)

I'm really just speculating without having much knowledge of psycho/room acoustics

I'll probably have to use a bit of boost for the sub-in for the Gallos woofer second voice coils. I have E-mailed tech support to find out the EQ curve used in their SA amplifier(240wpc) designed for this purpose. I'm betting that the curve rises as frequency goes down. This, just because of the tiny size of the woofer enclosure.

I sure there must be other considerations that I haven't thought of.
That is the real reason for this post.
What other special considerations do I need to throw into the mix

I appreciate you taking the time to read my post!!
TIA for any thoughts or suggestions!

Julien
 

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Do you have a means to measure the frequency response (REW) or just have a BFD and looking for some EQ tips with the driver?

Sadly, Anthony Gallo Acoustics doesn't provide us with the peak output of their subwoofers...just how much heat they generate. Usually, you can get an idea of how much EQ is being used in a design when you consider its efficiency. In order to get a sub to go that low in such a small cabinet without EQ, the suspension will need to be "very loose". The problem is that the voice coil gap needs to be made larger to prevent rocking of the driver from slamming the voice coil against the magnet (yikes). Instead, a stiffer suspension is used to prevent that from happening, but then EQ is required to boost the low-end. This second approach is less efficient than the first approach, but often isn't an issue because output is usually excursion limited (meaning that it's just a matter of implementing a voice coil that can handle the extra power).

All that to say - it's quite possible that no EQ is necessary, or a lot of EQ is necessary. There is not enough information to be able to tell - and I doubt you'll get this information from the manufacturer (but if you do, then great - one less thing to concern yourself about).

Once you decide how much EQ is necessary to bring the sub back to flat, then it's just a matter of putting the sub in your living room and relying on the natural room gain of the room to provide the psychoacoustic rise in the low end. The goal of accurate reproduction is to make the instruments sound as real as possible. A kick drum played in the corner of your room is going to experience the same room gain as the subwoofer - so if your sub is anything but "flat anechoically" then you will be deviating from the sound the kick drum would normally make - and thus it sounds wierd. At least that's one side of the argument - the other side claims you're not trying to make it sound like real instruments in your own room, but real instruments in some other different room being emulated by the recording. I'm not sure where I stand on either, but I've heard both approaches and like both approaches for different reasons.

And now that I've gone on rambling too long, I shall conclude with my point - which apparently is "I'm not sure if you need to take any special considerations". You seem pretty aware that you might blow stuff up, so as long as you avoid that and make it sound good to your ears I guess that's all that matters...
 
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