I'm interested in some. I know the other IB3 subs don't have this, but what about putting a counter coil on the sub, similar to what the Ascendant Audio Atlas had. This would make the sub a bit more versatile if one wanted to use it in a box.
The counter coil on the Atlas was actually a second voice coil. No power got sent to this coil. It could be shorted with a resistor of a certain value to adjust, and don't quote me on this, but I think the Qts. You would leave the second/counter coil open for IB applications or shorted for sealed/ported box applications. I feel this option leaves a sub open for a wider range of applications. IB one day, big ported box the next, if you change your mind.I second the motion... though it sounds like this sub is already "covered" in it's "high end" capeabilities, I don't see any reason for any drivers from anyone not implementing this idea.
EDIT: If by counter coil you mean alternating the windings to "nearly eliminate" inductance... I didn't study too much into the Atlas drivers, and the interesting wiring variations it had... I got Avalanches and didn't have to worry
Sorry about the counter coil mix up I didn’t want to cause confusion. The secondary coil on the Atlas subs are very novel. I totally get your DAF, you can only idiot proof any given item so much. I mean how hard was it to understand, don’t send power to the gold plated terminals on the Atlas. Any who, this is how I would use the 22” IB3. The first two would replace the pair of 15” Atlas I have in my Olds Cutlass Cierra. Yes, IB style, yes, I know it’s a car, let the flaming begin. The second two I would use in the house open baffle style. If that didn’t work then I’d mount them in the ceiling IB style, and hope the misses doesn’t divorce me over it. Adjustable coil or not count me in. P.S. Scott can we get pics of your baskets cut from sheet. Thanks, Hugo (onebadmonte)Atlas wasnt a counter coil, but an extra wind to simply change driver Qts. When I had designed the driver both Chad (original owner of Ascendant) and I felt it was a novel idea to have the extra 2 Ohm coil (4 layers for the main 4 Ohm coil and an extra 2 layers for the 2 Ohm coil). It allowed for adjustment to the driver varying the Qts by shorting or leaving it open, or with a pot to vary it anywhere in between. Worked great at that, but 99% of people never used it or understood what to do with it even though there was lots of documentation for it. Really... it confused lots of people and resulted in some driver failures and amp failures when people ran the 2 Ohm coil and not the 4 Ohm, or paralleled both, or.... you name it.
You could wire multiple subs in interesting configurations as well... 3 subs for a 2 Ohm load (series for the 2 and 4 Ohm coils per sub and parallel all 3 drivers). Using a pair of the 2 Ohm coils from two subs as a "3rd 4 Ohm load" for more wiring combinations... Im definitely not opposed to doing that again, but it would be a very niche driver if I did.
Counter coils are another favorite, but a different thing altogether.
My concern with some of the niche drivers is that the car guys would try them out and use things improperly. The DF (Dummy Factor) currently limits some of the things I would do under the "Fi" name (the OEM and a good portion of the car crowd know my DAF term and arent offended by it, so please dont flame me for it ). If there is enough interest Im not opposed to a HT specific spin off. It really isnt an issue for us to make smaller tweako runs of drivers for applications like this. Ill give it a little thought and maybe make a poll on what people are interested in.
The first two would replace the pair of 15” Atlas I have in my Olds Cutlass Cierra. Yes, IB style, yes, I know it’s a car, let the flaming begin. Thanks, Hugo (onebadmonte)