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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey guys,

I'm getting ready to start my AV15-H end table sub build. This is my first DIY sub build and I 'd like run my ideas by you guys first before I start ordering and cutting.

I am planning to build two identical end tables but I will only install a sub in one of them at this time. Then I'll see how the one sub is before dumping another $250 on another driver.

I am trying to keep the size in check, as I really want these to look like end tables.

I am planning on building a vented box 4 cubic feet after driver, vent, bracing, tuned to 21hz. I have the vent calculated in Winisd as 2.5"x12"x45.64". The stock end correction in Winisd is 0.732, is that ok for me? The box will be a 27"x24"x18.75" box using 0.75 MDF with a double driver baffle. The sub will be down firing.

I know this seems like a small box, but I think it models ok in Winisd.

The sub(s) will be powered by an EP2500.

The sub will be used for 70% HT and 30% music, but music SQ is important to me.

Below are the Winisd plots.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Frequency Response. Do you think this will be good at 20hz with room gain? Would 2 subs be better than one for 20hz performance? The room is about 12x18x8 and opens to the rest of the house in the back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Mike, I see Winisd shows 41" if I change the end correction to "One flanged end" is that what it should be for a slot port?

Do you think that is a good tuning frequency for a sub this size?

I've built car audio sealed subs before but never ported.

Thanks for the help,

John
 

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if I change the end correction to "One flanged end" is that what it should be for a slot port?
Yes.

Do you think that is a good tuning frequency for a sub this size?
The box size and tuning is a good combination for this sub in this application. It will do well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I finally started building this thing. Pictured is the CATIA model (I knew my skills would get put to good use sometime). I'm not sure yet what I'm going to do with the black areas. Either it will be ebony stained wood, stretched speaker grill cloth, or stained wood the same color as the rest. The top will be granite or tile, if I decide I can't afford granite.





 

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thats not to bad.

In the picture next to the work bench it looks huge compared to the hammer...however the pic with the pen laying in side makes it look more reasonable.

I think that will be a perfect size for a table.

Are you going to stain the mdf or put a veneer on top of it?

I honestly think you could find a mis sized/scrap pice of granite or coreon from a counter company that would be perfect for this project.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Since I'm putting this much effort in, I have decided I will make a matching coffe table (no subs, just the same style). I have been looking at remnanats but I need a lot of material since I'm covering two end tables + coffee table.
 

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Cool design. It looks tricky to build. You could always stain and polish poured concrete that is cheaper than tile and granite. You make a mold for it, spray in release, pour in fortified concrete, polish, stain, seal, and your done. I am considering doing it on mine if I can figure out how to stain it
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Progress. I have the box glued up except for the top and the interior port components. I have also updated the design to incorporate lower arches and chamfers on the corners.









I have purchased the wood for the legs and trim pieces (hemlock). I have started to testing stain to match my TV stand (here). the hemlock is a little blotchy, but i think i can make it work.

I have the granite tops ordered. I went with Uba Tuba.

I got the driver yesterday. Everything seems to fit nice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
More updates.

I got the veneer on the sides of the box and have the legs mocked up to see how it looks.


I also have the granite now.


 
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