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So, Behringer updated their site and the software is no longer available for the DCX2496. Maybe my Google skills are bad tonight, but I can't find the software anywhere. All the links on the web simply get redirected to Behringer's home page. Would someone be willing to upload the 1.16a software to the forum or website?

Thanks,

Dave
 

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Just a quick question regarding the use of REW with the DCX.

I'm wanting to do full range EQ, I own the Radio Shack Digi spl meter but I read it isn't accurate enough for this purpose, and only for bass correction duties.
Should I also be ordering the Behringer ECM800 and a Mic amp ? A good friend of mine can loan me the Mic, but as far as the amp is anything sufficient?
It don't think DCX is worth doing if I'm only guessing the filters through trial and error...If only it had the capabilities of the DEQ built in as well ....can someone chime in and tell me my options here ?
 

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Well, got a brand new DCX2496 and got it set up. Turns out I got one with the 'frying bacon' noise. Anyone found a reliable fix for this, or will i have to return it and pray they fix it?
The "frying egg" is a commonly known problem withe sample rate converter chip used in the DCX2496, the CS8420.. There are many many mods to the DCX that gets rid of this problem by replacing this chip.. My complete set of mods to the DCX2496 incorporates a replacement clock/src module which involves removing the CS8420 and replacing with CS8416.. Not only is the fying egg issue fixed,, but the improvement to the sound is huge (along with the other mods too)!!

Hope this helps..

Murphy
 

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Then why is it only one channel out of the six?
Hmmm,, that's interesting..
The "frying bacon/egg" problem does usually affects all outputs.. If you google search there is a lot of info about this, particularly in the European forums..

You could look inside and see if the src chip is still the CS8420, Cirrus Logic have released an official document describing the "bug" with this model of chip, that unfortunately Behringer was caught up in by using it in the DCX..

Maybe your issue is not the same that I'm thinking of..
From memory, there is a company in the US that offers upgrades to the DCX that gets it sounding pretty good

Hope this helps..
Cheers..
 

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Could be a different issue altogether. The issue is a pretty strong hiss and noise in one channel in particular. This seems to be an issue with a cable running to the output board. Most of the fixes involve moving and jiggling this cable, so I think I will try this first. If not, then I'll return the unit and hopefully get a new one. I've had a DCX before, and that was completely transparent, so this is a bummer.
 

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I am thinking that certain frequencies of the multiple subs may very well not match, other than getting the subs themselves level matched with broad band pink noise. If one is producing a 40Hz signal at 90db and the other is producing a 40Hz signal at 100db and you have a combined peak at 40Hz, after eq'ing that combined peak, it makes sense that there will still be the same variance between the two subs at that 40Hz frequency. The eq has no idea which sub to reduce it from... it is reducing the combined signal sent to the subs, therefore both subs get the same cut or boost. Hearing a louder tone out of one over the other would be natural in many cases for varying frequencies... some higher in one, some higher in the other, but that should not ultimately matter since we don't play one or the other, we play both or all and look for the combined response at the listening position.

There have also been several here with various rooms who ended up only being able to eq them combined.

Actually I would think symmetrically located subs in a symmetrical room would be the easiest to equalize separately. They both should have the same response with all things being equal. I don't know... maybe my thinking is skewed. :huh:

It just seems nearly impossible to eq one sub by itself, then eq another by itself in a different location, and then combine them for an acceptable response, regardless of the room. When those signals interact, there will most likely always be some drastic effects to the response. I won't say there are not exceptions, but I would say they are very rare. :dumbcrazy:
I'm not sure what you're saying when you explain that the problems come in due to a 40Hz signal being reproduced as something other than 40Hz? 40Hz is 40Hz, it's the representation of an AC signal that oscillates the cone of the speaker so it moves 40 times per second to produce a 40Hz tone. The cone cannot move more or less times since the wave is limiting the movement in the magnetic flux created in the pole gap where the coil resides.

What can differ greatly (whether the drivers are exact models and have exact amplifiers or are all different) is the volume output (which should be set individually using db meter) since there will be slight variations between batches. Especially if materials used vary slightly. It's not uncommon for manufacturing processes to change quickly as companies develop. The other major difference is position. It's impossible for them all to be in the exact same place since they all the up real space in the same dimension this makes the distance from you to differ and there is 1 last factor that comes from the different positions is reflections. As the sound radiates outward it will interact with solid objects as well as other soundwaves that ate travelling within that same common area. As the waves move they will meet. Some waves will have traveled that tiny bit further or less than other exact same frequencies and they will not always be timed at the sane phase as the other waves and will either add volume (in phase) or cancel causing loss of sound (out of phase) how much sound is lost depends on how far out of phase they are and how many waves are moving at the same time. This is why multiple subs (or any multiple drivers) can become a problem and harder to tune.

Positioning correctly is more trial and error than planned programming and the smaller the sub cabinets are, the easier it is to move them around and offers a larger number of positions within the same room.
I would consider using 2 good subs over 4 cheaper models simply due to the difficulty of getting good flat response and the amount of space used in the room. 1 in front and 1 in rear should be plenty unless your room is gigantic or your entertaining deaf people.
 
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