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Discussion Starter #1
http://www.behringer.com/EN/Products/NU6000.aspx

There will be 1000, 3000 and 6000 Watt model...
Class-D is very common for SW amps. Very cool and using very little electricity.
The iNUKE NU6000 delivers 2 x 1500 Watt @ 8 ohm. Would this be adequate for two Maelström 18"?

There seems to also been added a EPX4000 model (EPX3000 before). These are Class-H and these run also cooler than normal AB, but not as cool as D. But I'd need two of those?
 

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Hello,
Those look like they will be great values. Through the use of Switching Power Supplies, many Companies have been able to provide huge amounts of power without consuming a great deal of power.

I believe much of this stems from the EU's implementation of Laws that require AV Gear to consume far less energy. If memory serves, Switching Power Supplies are now required for Amplifiers. Does not bode well for Class A or Class AB designs.
Cheers,
JJ
 

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Is there consensus on the quality of sound produced by class-D designs? Seems to me that power savings is always a plus until you start to compromise the quality of your sound reproduction.
 

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Hello,
There are definitely many who believe that all amplifiers sound the same at matched levels. Regardless of technology. I still greatly prefer Class A and Class AB Amplifiers myself.

Here is an Article from British Reviewer Martin Colloms which is pretty interesting: http://www.hificritic.com/downloads/Class-D.pdf

This Article has certainly caused a good deal of debate, but I find myself agreeing with much of it. I well might be in the minority on this.
Cheers,
JJ
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Class-D amps of recently like Rotel get very good reviews. Anyhow, for me this Behringer would serve to power a pair of SW. And Class-D has always been regarded as good enough SQ for the bandwidth in which a SW operates, no?

Sorry, I meant to post this thread in the SW-amp section from the start. I will do a repost there if I may.
 

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When i was into car audio Class-D was just coming out for subwoofer duties (mono amps) then a few years later they started to emerge into to the full range amps so i bought one and could tell a differance in sound quality from my Class A-B amps. I didn't care for the sound at all, this was maybe 10 years ago so i'm sure the tecnology has changed but my mind hasn't. Maybe if i heard a Class-D from today i may change my mind but as of now i believe they are better suited for subwoofer duties. JMO.

Oh yeah, those new nukes look like some nice amps, much better looking then the Ep series.:T
 

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Discussion Starter #7
What I find strange is:
iNUKE NU6000 is rated 2*[email protected] and 2*[email protected]
iNUKE NU3000 is rated 2*[email protected] and 2*[email protected] and bridged [email protected]
So NU6000 is 4x as powerful as NU3000???

The Maelström 18" pair I want to use them for are rated for [email protected] each (series connected) so NU6000 is 2 x power and NU3000 only half power...unless I use 2 of them each bridged, when again we have double what the speaker is good for!

Best option would be 1 x NU6000 in stereo? We have 230V, so a dedicated powerline with 25A should be enough. Speaker would blow faster than the jumper IMO. As you probably know, a jumper doesn't jump that fast, most only jump after several minutes if the overpower is only 20% or so.
 

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Elite Shackster
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I am looking for something to power my IB and this looks interesting, but I'm not sure about the inputs on this amp, the EP4000 seems better in that regard.

Jack, you seem to be savy about amps, Ive been looking at this to power my IB, any thoughts on that of the top of your head?
 

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I am looking for something to power my IB and this looks interesting, but I'm not sure about the inputs on this amp, the EP4000 seems better in that regard.

Jack, you seem to be savy about amps, Ive been looking at this to power my IB, any thoughts on that of the top of your head?
Hello,
I checked out the link provided and must say it is a quite attractive piece of kit to use your parlance. I did not read anywhere on the page about it using a Fan which is a plus in my book provided sufficient heat sinking and heat dispersion.

Provided there is a reasonable return policy, it looks like a safe bet. I have never listened to a XTZ Amplifier so do not have any personal experience to fall back on as it appears distribution seems European.
Cheers,
JJ
 

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They are a euro based company doing some rather high VFM products. The amp is basically a plate amp capable of 400 watts into 2ohm. Its expensive but is attractive. The DSP is nice and it comes available with or without the DSP but the DSP almost doubles the cost, but it does come with a GEQ and a 5 band PEQ and something like 10 pre sets and a PC interface.

The beauty of an IB is it doesnt need that much power, and one of these of each pair of drivers might be nice, as long as the amp doesnt get to hot or clip. FWIW, there is a 30-day money back on every product as they are mainly an internet based company.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
If you are in Europe, XTZ is a very attractive choice. It's basically a gang of Scandinavian (Swedish) audio professionals that design decent speakers, amps etc with quality parts. Production is China. Distribution is internet based. Prices are very interesting. If you are in EU, you don't pay extra duties, which is a very big plus. All the stuff I buy really cheap from Emotiva gets a big upmarking because of the shipping bill and the 30% duties and VAT you pay on top of the total. None of that with XTZ.

If I didn't got my used Jamo R909 for 1/3 of list price, I would be looking into their reference "100.49" speakers. Got some "white" speaker cables of them.
http://www.xtz.se/uk
 

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Elite Shackster
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The divines do look awesome. Eventually, I might try copy the design and build something, but thats a long long way off.

I am actually about to order a pair of 99.36 speakers from them.
 

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Discussion Starter #13

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Any new news on price and availability of these amps?

Moonfly - would this be an alternative to the EP-4000 for my dual three 18" IB3 driver arrays?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Any new news on price and availability of these amps?
No, I have a peep into the Behringer site almost every day. "Coming soon" is what it says.
 

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The iNUKE 3000 look interesting. I have a build project in my head for this summer when I will move and this one could be a good choice if the price is good.

But I find it hard to beleive that these amplifier can supply what they are rated. the iNUKE 3000 weight 7 pound and the iNUKE 6000 12 pound. I have not even checked the iNUKE 1000... it must be like 5lbs.

Do you really think that a 12 pound amp could deliver 6000 watt? If it's true then I will save some money on shipping :D
 

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Discussion Starter #17
The iNUKE 3000 look interesting. I have a build project in my head for this summer when I will move and this one could be a good choice if the price is good.

But I find it hard to beleive that these amplifier can supply what they are rated. the iNUKE 3000 weight 7 pound and the iNUKE 6000 12 pound. I have not even checked the iNUKE 1000... it must be like 5lbs.

Do you really think that a 12 pound amp could deliver 6000 watt? If it's true then I will save some money on shipping :D
First: as usual with Behringer, take their ratings with a big grain of salt. The print is not as reliable as, say, Emotiva. I want the NU6000 to power a pair of Maelström 18". These are rated for 1500 Watt Pmax @ 4 ohm each. In theory, the NU6000 is 3000 Watt @ 4 ohm each channel. Should be no problem, I plan to let Audyssey MultEQ or something similar do its thing.

Second: that's class D for you. Here is some description, a bit outdated it seems, but still valid:

A class D amp can be more than 80% efficient while a Class A/B (which most amps are) will fall into the 50-60% range. Let’s say we have two identical vehicles and we are going to put a class A/B sub amp into one of the vehicles and a class D into the other. Both amps, for comparison put out 1,000 watts RMS with 12 Volts. The vehicle with the class A/B amp will draw approximately 160 amperes of current and , being 50% efficient, will put out 1,000 watts of heat into the heat sink! Bummer, huh! The class D amp will only draw around 98 amperes to yield the same 1,000 watts RMS output. Not only will your vehicle like you better for not draining the power supply, but the amp will like you better as well because now you will only produce about 175 watts of heat into the class D heatsink! For you tweakers, that’s 40% less current draw and 82% less heat for the heatsink dissipate...

Class D is great for bigger sub amps only as the benefits do not outweigh the cost for a smaller amp. So, why don't people make a class D amp to play 20Hz to 20kHz?! Not a simple answer, but here goes... The audio signal is used to modulate the shape of the square-looking waves of high frequencies. Then the high frequencies are eliminated, leaving audio output. The type of modulation used is called Pulse-width Modulation, or PWM. PWM, like the power supply in many car audio amps is used. Truth is, a PWM power supply as an amp that has DC output only. If you want to play 20kHz you would have to have the output devices switch at hundreds of kHz which almost reaches the AM radio frequencies. You see, the Pulse Width Modulated (PWM) wave frequency must be a lot higher than the desired playing frequency. To play 500Hz, we only need to switch at a frequency around 60kHz.

In summation, class D amps put out more power and less heat with less current consumption. But as for now, they are only beneficial as larger subwoofer amplifiers.


Hence, more efficiency means a smaller transfo and less heat, both good factors to reduce size. The drawbacks are that it's not easy to have good quality sound for the whole audio band, but that's no concern for SW.
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
B&O ICE power

If you feel like marketing your own personal class D power amplifier: here's the Plug&Play module you need. Just slot it into a 17 inch case. Succes!

http://www.icepower.bang-olufsen.com/en/solutions/theater/

Specs:
Nominal Power
<0.05% THD+N, 8Ω, 20Hz-20kHz
One channel driven FTC
150 Watts

Nominal Power
<0.1% THD+N, 8Ω, 20Hz-20kHz
Seven channels driven FTC
63 Watts


So, with all 7 channels drivven, you lose 60% of the original power and have double the distortion! Wat a whimp!


BTW:the B&O BeoLab5 speaker system (the saucer from space design you saw in that Batman movie) has 2500 Watts for each speaker with 2 x 1000 Watts and 2 x 250 Watts built in if I am not mistaken.
 

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So do you guys think this will be a replacement for the EP-4000?

Moonfly suggested the EP-4000 for my installation and in all my research to see if there is something else, I keep coming back to it. It's hard to believe considering it's so cheap.

FWIW - I'll be building a pair of 3 driver Fi IB3 18" Arrays.
 

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Something to bear in mind about Class D is all those theoretical statements about Class D being more efficient than Class AB goes right out the window when you push the amplifier into clipping.

Push a Class D hard enough and your back to Class AB levels of efficiency.
 
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