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Was reading alot about how the class d amps arn't good sq amps. I have thought the same since they first came out in car audio. I think that was true then but today I'm not so sure. I have a new Crown Dci 4|300n and it sounds sweet. It is an expensive amp but it's SQ is beautiful. Sounds alot like the tube amps. Very smooth...
 

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An amplifier shouldnt sound sweet but dead neutral at all output levels and frequencies. That is a low distortion aka high qualuty amp.
As for the tube amps what i have heard, is that they tend to generate higher harmonic frequencies to enrich the base tone of a sound or of elektrical instruments, vocals etc. to compensate for bad speakers. In a sense they enrich, add more color, which is distorting the sound to make it more appealing.

Even a class D amplifier has typical distortion rate around 0.05% at 1/2 of the max power throughout the whole range, whereas pretty much the best speakers out there such as scanspeak, seas or accuton have distortion rates of 0.5% and more below 100hz. So a speaker has 10 times more distortion than a class d amp, hence we cant even talk about amp distortion with those distortion rates, because the limiting factor are always the speakers.

The problem i can imagine with a cheap class d amp would be bit more noise or crosstalk between the channels, but for subwoofers after applying the low pass filter 50-130Hz it should work fine.
 

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An amplifier shouldnt sound sweet but dead neutral at all output levels and frequencies. That is a low distortion aka high qualuty amp.
As for the tube amps what i have heard, is that they tend to generate higher harmonic frequencies to enrich the base tone of a sound or of elektrical instruments, vocals etc. to compensate for bad speakers. In a sense they enrich, add more color, which is distorting the sound to make it more appealing.

Even a class D amplifier has typical distortion rate around 0.05% at 1/2 of the max power throughout the whole range, whereas pretty much the best speakers out there such as scanspeak, seas or accuton have distortion rates of 0.5% and more below 100hz. So a speaker has 10 times more distortion than a class d amp, hence we cant even talk about amp distortion with those distortion rates, because the limiting factor are always the speakers.

The problem i can imagine with a cheap class d amp would be bit more noise or crosstalk between the channels, but for subwoofers after applying the low pass filter 50-130Hz it should work fine.
Agreed, 100%.
 

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Can someone explain the clip lights in some detail, as I searched through this thread and couldn't find any answers (likely my fault). I have a 1000dsp powering a Dayton ultimax in a large ported enclosure. Am I supposed to see the yellow lights light up when I get some good bass going? Is this a signal that it's clipping? Or would I see the top lights hit? The manual doesn't really specify at all. Any info would be greatly appreciated!
 

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^^
The first three are amber signal lights and starting at the bottom:

(1) -24dB = .4% power used

(2) -12dB = 6.3% power used

(3) -6dB = 25.1% power used

The top red light is the indication of 100%...the red light can "blink" occasionally but only a little bit. You can also see this on the input/output "meters" within the remote software package.
 

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I replaced my 1000dsp with a 3000 for more power and adding a second sub in the future. I was wondering how to use the limiter settings. I want to limit it to about 1200w max power in bridge mode. If anyone has any detailed instructions I would greatly appreciate it!
 

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What do you think about to feed a pair of Ported JBL W12GTI (3 ohm each one) with a 6000DSP?
I don´t want to use maximum output of Behri so i think won´t be any problem but...
 

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Hi Folks,

I'm a new guy to this forum. I just purchased the INuke NU4-6000 and am looking for use it in a Home Theatre 5.1 Setup. I have no prior experience in using Pro Power Amps. I was thinking of using a Onkyo SR805 Reciever's preouts in a 3 or maybe 4 channel mode if I use the Nu4600 for my SVS PB10 Sub too. My room size is 19' x 15' x8'. My main l/r are Dahlquist 20i 4 ohm speakers. My center is a Klipsch kfl-C7. I understand that the Behringer amp have no RCA or binding posts. How would I go about hooking the amp to the Onkyo 805 preouts ? What particular Speakon cable would I use ? The Dahlquist 20i's crave power at least 300 watts of high current although it doesn't have to be really clean power. The Klipsch Center can handle up to 600 watts. Although the Klipsch is only 8 ohm. With the Onkyo 805 as a preamp it's not possible to biamp the Dahlquist 20i fronts although that speaker probably works best biamped. Would having a pair of 4ohm fronts to a 8onm Centerspeaker cause any problems ? What's the most efficient way to hook the 3 speaker up ? Will I need a power conditioners or anything else to avoid overloading my grounded 15amp circuit ? Hopefully, I can get soe suggestions from this forum because amp suggestions for old Dahlquist speakers are few and mostly vintage equipment. I' really don't want to shell out $800 smackers for a Emotiva XPA 3 amp when from what I've read the INuke 4/6000 will do the job just as well if not better. I'll worry about the dual fan noise from the Nu4-6000 later if I need too.

Regards, Larry
 

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I understand that the Behringer amp have no RCA or binding posts. How would I go about hooking the amp to the Onkyo 805 preouts ?
The amp has a 1/4" input. You can buy 1/4" to RCA adapters or a 1/4" to RCA cables.
What particular Speakon cable would I use ?
You can use any speakon cable. I simply bought Neutrik NL4FX connectors and used my existing speaker wire. (NL2FX or the no-name connectors from Monoprice will work too)
Would having a pair of 4ohm fronts to a 8onm Centerspeaker cause any problems ?
No, but your 8ohm center will need more output from the amp to match volume to the 4ohm fronts.
What's the most efficient way to hook the 3 speaker up ?
1 amp channel per speaker leaving 1 extra, unused amp channel or bridge your center, but probably unnecessary. Then use a mic and software (REW) or build in receiver calibration/mic (if you have it) or a SPL meter or your ear to volume match everything.
Will I need a power conditioners or anything else to avoid overloading my grounded 15amp circuit ?
Need? No. I use a SurgeX power protection for my whole system and a UPS for fun, but have some power protection at least.
I'll worry about the dual fan noise from the Nu4-6000 later if I need too.
I'd leave the fans alone or move the equipment rack out of your theater room. Fan mod is popular, but I haven't seen any mention to CFM. Quieter fans are almost always moving less air. No Bueno.
 

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I just bought a NU6000DSP for my subwoofers. I have it all setup and when I have the power triggered through a smart strip, I am getting a loud turn-off pop on channel B only. Even with the input cables unplugged, channel B pops. If I use the power button I don't seem to have this problem.


I'm curious if anyone else has a channel B power-off pop when unplugging. Perhaps mine is defective? (Unplugging is no different that using a smart strip or power sequencer).


I do not want to have to turn this on/off manually every time I use my system. Suggestions?
 

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I do not want to have to turn this on/off manually every time I use my system. Suggestions?
Just use the power button?
Any other ideas?

I think I saw a thread on a forum somewhere with people wiring up relays to the power button and getting turning it into a 1/8 trigger from the receiver. I think I'll end up having to go that route.
 

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What model amp do you have? When I use a smart strip to kill power it pops. I've read it may just be the DSP models.
I have the iNuke 1000 plain, no DSP (I have a miniDSP).

I just realized that you have an NU6000, so you need a lot more amperes, so, my guess is that this belkin will not work for you, although is rated to 15 amp

When I was investigating on how to turn on the iNuke with a remote I saw this:

http://www.amazon.com/Furman-MP-20Q-Accessory-Electrical-Maintained/dp/B0002JSY34/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1415163848&sr=8-6&keywords=furman+outlet

This may work for you.

Regarding your pops, you may need to delay the on/off sequence for your equipment. something that I learnt is that you need to turn on first the source (AVR for example) and later, following the signal chain, the amp at the end. And the sequence for turn off is backwards, first turn off the amp and at the end the AVR.

I have this sequence on my equipment and I don't have any pop sound.

Hope this helps.
 

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I leave my MiniDSP on all the time. I manually turn my iNuke on/off with the power button. No pops, thumps or anything. My previous EP4K used to thump a little w/ turn-on, but not bad.

Re: Furman stuff (MP-20Q + PowerLink). Another $500 to turn the system power on/off? Does the expense sink-hole of this hobby ever end??
 

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I run a nu1000dsp in bridge mode. Using a 4p speakon connector(+1 and +2 connected).

What i find weird is that both volume knobs work, is this right or have I done something wrong?

Are both knobs supposed to be on the same level?
 

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I run a nu1000dsp in bridge mode. Using a 4p speakon connector(+1 and +2 connected).

What i find weird is that both volume knobs work, is this right or have I done something wrong?

Are both knobs supposed to be on the same level?
Both channels of the amp are working together in bridged mode...

Use the knob for Channel A to set your gain and rotate the knob for Channel B all the way counter-clockwise to the "OFF" position.
 

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Hey there fellow bassheads, just finished reading all posts, phew.... Couldn't find the answer in here either so I thought since it's related to all inukes- here it goes.
I'm getting inuke 6000 to power my 2 SI HT 18 D2 in single sealed box. My plan is to wire each of them to 4ohms and connect single woofer to each channel. BUT. How I know that the signal is going reach each of the driver at the exact same moment so the drivers won't fight each other in a single box? I understand that the difference might be somewhere in 0.00000000001 region but still. Or am I overthinking too much about it? Thanks for any input and accept my apologies if the question was noobish :)
 
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