Home Theater Forum and Systems banner

41 - 60 of 138 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
I got my silent 12V fan today. It's a 80mm Nexus Real Silent Case fan. I also ordered the matching rubber damping surround.

I have done some measuring when installing the new fan and the voltage on the fan pinout of the Behringer starts at 0 Volts when powering up and rises to 17.2 Volts after a while.
I find this too high for my taste so I tried fitting some inline resistors (6V, 8V and 10V) but weirdly those did not make a difference to the end voltage, it keeps ending up at 17.2 Volts???

The end result is a quieter Behringer compared to the stock fan but not as quiet as I would like it because the 12V fan runs at 17V for which it was not designed. I think this also explains why a 24V fan works, this would run at an undervoltage.

BTW I also removed that plastic fan shroud. I also noticed that the transistors in my iNuke have some sort of copper heatsink plates fitted above them.

I think I will still order a 24V fan because at a distance of 4 meters the new Behringer fan is clearly audible and I'm sure it will be annoying when watching silents parts of a movie.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
80 Posts
I signed up for HTS as a result of Room EQ Wizard, but Google hit upon this thread. I am a recent owner (convert to?) Behringer iNuke. Specifically I have bought a NU3000 and a NU1000DSP is on order. First let me state that the current and likely only use of my NU3000 is/will be for driving two pair of Bose 901 II in a bedroom. In other words, my amp will see pretty easy use compared to hard duty in a PA for a nightclub, simulating WW II in your home theatre, or what-have-you. I too was dismayed by the noisy fan. All DIY mods seem geared to putting in a quieter fan. This is a wonderful hack, but why not lose the fan entirely? Based upon success I had months ago with converting a generic PC ATX PSU's fan to fanless cooling, I left the case open on two sides including the PC case to allow convection cooling. I thought, why not try the NU3000 with no fan at all? That I did, removing the fan, the duct, and keeping the lid off. Also note that in my set-up, the amp is on an open shelf among cool-running gear -- in other words it has plenty of cooling air available. I already have posted this perpetration at diyAudio (to general disapproval) so save your speeches :devil: The point is this mod works, at least short-term, with no ill effects so far. I am well aware that:

1. The warranty is void (gee, lost a 90 day warranty!);
2. This increases risk of failure of the unit (however, it is possible that the thermal protection may still work -- or maybe not!)
3. The lid stays off, for necessary cooling but at cost of increased EMI and risk of exposed voltages*.

*The voltages themselves are not at risk, but an idiot or pet touching the inside could meet with a nasty surprise. You could make a screen for the top, of course, if you have hardware talents beyond mine (screwing and unscrewing).

I plan to put some adhesive heat sinks on the MOSFETs, and ... maybe nothing else.

It would be cool to know how hot the heat sinks are getting. I can report that a small piece of candle wax will liquefy (so 50-70 deg. C I think.) Droplet of 91% isopropyl alcohol or water did not flash to steam immediately so that was a good sign. :T It would be good to know far one could run the amp sans fan ... works for me.

Perhaps Behringer is cheap junk, etc. But this criticism comes from audio snobs who think their eqiupment is better just because it's more expensive. Certainly almost any amp is going to be more expensive. Better? Perhaps, but I'm happy with my class D cheapie, thank you very much. But then, I'm listening to [gasp!] "Bose 901" -- just those two words can send any self-respecting audiophile into a rug-chewing, foaming-at-the-mouth paroxysm.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
If you want a very quiet digital amp, consider the Crown XLS series amps. To drive my Magnepan MG 12s, I replaced a noisy Behringer EP1500 with a quiet Crown XLS1500.

Actually, the Crown is my second EP1500 replacement. The first time I replaced the Behringer with a Yamaha P2500S. The Yamaha is a very quiet, powerful amp and it's also very heavy.

This time I decided I wanted quiet and light so the Crown became the obvious choice. The Yamaha now drives my Magnepan MMG desktop system and the Crown drives the MG 12s.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
I should add I considered buying one of the Behringer iNuke amps but after viewing the Youtube iNuke fan replacement video, I decided I wanted to avoid the fan replacement problem all together so the Crown became my obvious choice. Plus, if I modified the Behringer, I'd void its warranty and the Crown has a three year, no questions asked warrant which is an obvious plus.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
I got my silent 12V fan today. It's a 80mm Nexus Real Silent Case fan. I also ordered the matching rubber damping surround.

I have done some measuring when installing the new fan and the voltage on the fan pinout of the Behringer starts at 0 Volts when powering up and rises to 17.2 Volts after a while.
I find this too high for my taste so I tried fitting some inline resistors (6V, 8V and 10V) but weirdly those did not make a difference to the end voltage, it keeps ending up at 17.2 Volts???

The end result is a quieter Behringer compared to the stock fan but not as quiet as I would like it because the 12V fan runs at 17V for which it was not designed. I think this also explains why a 24V fan works, this would run at an undervoltage.

BTW I also removed that plastic fan shroud. I also noticed that the transistors in my iNuke have some sort of copper heatsink plates fitted above them.

I think I will still order a 24V fan because at a distance of 4 meters the new Behringer fan is clearly audible and I'm sure it will be annoying when watching silents parts of a movie.
You need 120-150R resistor to make a difference. Together with heatsinks (see my earlier post) the amp becomes useable in a hifi scenario.....& stays cool!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
80 Posts
I should note that my first "go fanless" attempt (on a PC's power supply), that I mention in my prior post, died a few days ago at age (about) 8 months. I was present at the demise...hissing a few hours beforehand (capacitor? Not sure) and pop then no power. Upon later inspection, it was not the big electrolytics but there is visible scorching on another part of the board. I'm not sure what failed. Fortunately no damage to PC. I replaced it the same day with the same model $11 PSU. Also bought a spare PSU for "next time." Diablotek has already changed their PCB slightly, but the mod is easier for me. Also, this time I figured out how to install the PSU so it's not "upside down" with the waste heat baking the circuit board above it :)

I mention this to show that going fanless can result in failure. I'm hoping to avoid that with my $270 NU3000...no guarantees of course. Based on my unscientific methods (hand held above the unit), the PSU dissipates far more heat than does the Behringer.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
I got my silent 12V fan today. It's a 80mm Nexus Real Silent Case fan. I also ordered the matching rubber damping surround.

I have done some measuring when installing the new fan and the voltage on the fan pinout of the Behringer starts at 0 Volts when powering up and rises to 17.2 Volts after a while.
I find this too high for my taste so I tried fitting some inline resistors (6V, 8V and 10V) but weirdly those did not make a difference to the end voltage, it keeps ending up at 17.2 Volts???

The end result is a quieter Behringer compared to the stock fan but not as quiet as I would like it because the 12V fan runs at 17V for which it was not designed. I think this also explains why a 24V fan works, this would run at an undervoltage.

BTW I also removed that plastic fan shroud. I also noticed that the transistors in my iNuke have some sort of copper heatsink plates fitted above them.

I think I will still order a 24V fan because at a distance of 4 meters the new Behringer fan is clearly audible and I'm sure it will be annoying when watching silents parts of a movie.
Save yourself the money Flavio. I tried the 24V fan & it DOES NOT SPIN.....even after 20 minutes waiting for the iNuke to warm up. (3000DSP)

I have tried many solutions to solve this problem. The quietest is to mount the fan in the lid. This way the air is either drawn through or expelled from a greater opening.....the front & rear of the unit. What causes the noise is not the fan itself, but the speed at which the air is rushing through the openings in the unit.

Therefore, the speed of the air must be slowed down. Sure, you can do this buying a 'quieter' fan. All this means it its less powerful than the Behringer unit and does not spin as fast as the Berhinger fan does. To me, even one of these slower spinning fans is still too fast & creates too much roar in the domestic environment.

The best fix is a simple 2w 120-150R resistor in series with the red lead of the fan. The stock fan will do. This slows the fan down acceptably noise-wise, but still generates sufficient airflow to keep the amp cool in a domestic environment.

I have taken the extra precaution of adding self heatsinks to the relevant components & dispensed with the shroud.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
I've just got myself a 1000DSP. The fan goes on directly when powered on. To test if it revs up further, I've pushed the unit using my sub (peerless sls12) at output (approx -12db to clipping, according to the VU meter that you get using the PC program). When music paused, the fan seems to rev at the same speed as when started..

Does that mean that the 1000 DSP has not variable speed, or maybe that the speed setting is too high to start out with so that the temp did not rise enough to get a noticeable rev up.

Or maybe my temp sense in the INUKE is not working correctly.

Sound of the fan is terrible, way to loud for home cinema I believe. DSP functions looks good though.

You people owning 1000DSPs what are you experiences with fan speed, and modifications...

Thanks in advance.

Best,
Per
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
922 Posts
I had a NU1000 DSP.. I think it worked so well I sold it and got a NU3000 DSP on the way since I will have 2 subs.

1) I like the idea of removing the shroud and adding a heatsink and a quiet fan.

I will look into that.

2) Can anyone suggest what is the proper way to run 2 subs off the NU3000DSP?


I am thinking one RCA from the LFE output of the RCVR to the CH A input on the NU3000

Then have One output to left sub and one output to right sub?

My RCVR has 2 LFE out puts should I hook another one up to the B channel?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
922 Posts
I signed up for HTS as a result of Room EQ Wizard, but Google hit upon this thread. I am a recent owner (convert to?) Behringer iNuke. Specifically I have bought a NU3000 and a NU1000DSP is on order. First let me state that the current and likely only use of my NU3000 is/will be for driving two pair of Bose 901 II in a bedroom. In other words, my amp will see pretty easy use compared to hard duty in a PA for a nightclub, simulating WW II in your home theatre, or what-have-you. I too was dismayed by the noisy fan. All DIY mods seem geared to putting in a quieter fan. This is a wonderful hack, but why not lose the fan entirely? Based upon success I had months ago with converting a generic PC ATX PSU's fan to fanless cooling, I left the case open on two sides including the PC case to allow convection cooling. I thought, why not try the NU3000 with no fan at all? That I did, removing the fan, the duct, and keeping the lid off. Also note that in my set-up, the amp is on an open shelf among cool-running gear -- in other words it has plenty of cooling air available. I already have posted this perpetration at diyAudio (to general disapproval) so save your speeches :devil: The point is this mod works, at least short-term, with no ill effects so far. I am well aware that:

1. The warranty is void (gee, lost a 90 day warranty!);
2. This increases risk of failure of the unit (however, it is possible that the thermal protection may still work -- or maybe not!)
3. The lid stays off, for necessary cooling but at cost of increased EMI and risk of exposed voltages*.

*The voltages themselves are not at risk, but an idiot or pet touching the inside could meet with a nasty surprise. You could make a screen for the top, of course, if you have hardware talents beyond mine (screwing and unscrewing).

I plan to put some adhesive heat sinks on the MOSFETs, and ... maybe nothing else.

It would be cool to know how hot the heat sinks are getting. I can report that a small piece of candle wax will liquefy (so 50-70 deg. C I think.) Droplet of 91% isopropyl alcohol or water did not flash to steam immediately so that was a good sign. :T It would be good to know far one could run the amp sans fan ... works for me.

Perhaps Behringer is cheap junk, etc. But this criticism comes from audio snobs who think their eqiupment is better just because it's more expensive. Certainly almost any amp is going to be more expensive. Better? Perhaps, but I'm happy with my class D cheapie, thank you very much. But then, I'm listening to [gasp!] "Bose 901" -- just those two words can send any self-respecting audiophile into a rug-chewing, foaming-at-the-mouth paroxysm.
I opened up my unit... can you source any "adhesive heat sinks on the MOSFETs" I looked on ebay but can not find anything all that great. Looks like we will need 4 of them or one that can bridge across?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Can anyone confirm wether the INUKE1000 has variable speed or not (as I wrote above, my fan seems to go on full speed directly when turned on...)

Thanks in advance
Per
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
922 Posts
Can anyone confirm wether the INUKE1000 has variable speed or not (as I wrote above, my fan seems to go on full speed directly when turned on...)

Thanks in advance
Per
I can confirm I had the NU1000DSP, Now I sold that and got a 3000DSP and both have fan with variable speed.

When you turn it on the fan is low but audible, If you send some test tones 20, 30 40 HZ at pretty loud levels you should here the fan rev up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
922 Posts
I've just got myself a 1000DSP. The fan goes on directly when powered on. To

Sound of the fan is terrible, way to loud for home cinema I believe. DSP functions looks good though.

You people owning 1000DSPs what are you experiences with fan speed, and modifications...



Best,
Per
Behringer did not design these for home theater use. they are designed to be back stage at a rock concert !

if they were smart they could maybe design a HT version.

That being said I think with a New fan, Take the shroud out inside and throw on some heatsinks and this will purr.

Its that shroud making most of the noise. Turbulent air.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
From the previous discussion, it seems that the fan should be variable, but at least in my unit it goes on full (or at least at high rev with lots of sound). A reason could be that they have mounted a 12v fan (instead of a 24v). As the unit is on warranty I'll not open it up, instead I'll just return it for a new one.

It will be used to drive two subs (Peerless SLS12). Would you recommend to take a 3000 instead.

Best,
Per
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
922 Posts
From the previous discussion, it seems that the fan should be variable, but at least in my unit it goes on full (or at least at high rev with lots of sound). A reason could be that they have mounted a 12v fan (instead of a 24v). As the unit is on warranty I'll not open it up, instead I'll just return it for a new one.

It will be used to drive two subs (Peerless SLS12). Would you recommend to take a 3000 instead.

Best,
Per
I suggest the 3000.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
58 Posts
k9vap said:
The best fix is a simple 2w 120-150R resistor in series with the red lead of the fan. The stock fan will do. This slows the fan down acceptably noise-wise, but still generates sufficient airflow to keep the amp cool in a domestic environment.
Hi k9vap

I have just tried this with a 150R resistor on the red lead but I could not get the fan to spin ? I even un-soldered and soldered on the other way round but still no spin up on the fan ?

Are you sure it's the red wire ?? I also checked with a multi metre and I could see 150.

I'am sure I 'm doing something wrong ;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
80 Posts
For fschris about a month ago if you're still interested, I did buy my heat sinks off ebay. Here are ones that I used (or very similar):

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Koolance-8x-self-adhesive-aluminum-Video-Card-RAM-Heat-Sinks-HTS-GP001P-/280878239932?pt=US_Water_Cooling&hash=item4165a5d0bc

I used 6 per NU3000 (there are 2 mosfets for the PSU I assume). I don't know whether they actually improve cooling but they haven't fallen off yet (2-3 months now). Also, no they must be separate because the stock heatsinks are live with different voltages.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
922 Posts
For fschris about a month ago if you're still interested, I did buy my heat sinks off ebay. Here are ones that I used (or very similar):

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Koolance-8x-self-adhesive-aluminum-Video-Card-RAM-Heat-Sinks-HTS-GP001P-/280878239932?pt=US_Water_Cooling&hash=item4165a5d0bc

I used 6 per NU3000 (there are 2 mosfets for the PSU I assume). I don't know whether they actually improve cooling but they haven't fallen off yet (2-3 months now). Also, no they must be separate because the stock heatsinks are live with different voltages.
Thanks... I was thinking I could just use one long heatsink... I guess the individual ones are the way to go.
 
41 - 60 of 138 Posts
Top