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I put this in my build thread but thought I would also add it here.

I just swapped the fan out in my iNuke3000DSP with one of the 80mm Nocua fans. This sucker is 100% dead silent now. Even with the stock shroud back on, I can not hear the fan at all. And this fan still introduces plenty of air flow into the case as I can put my hand near the front grill and still feel air flow being pushed out of the grill.

I highly recommend this fan.
 

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I've done a fan swap too, (fractal design PC fan rated at 11 db <-which is of course bogus....). I put heat sinks on the transistors (those that stick to memory chips for over clocking graphics cards). It is really silent even with the shroud. I placed the fan the same way as stock fan, i.e. blowing from the back through to the front. Maybe it would have been better to place it other way around, at least for my setup, but maybe the idea with the shroud would be lost that way. Didn't have access to a heat camera, so I do not know if something heats up... but so far nothing bad has happened (fingers crossed).

Best,
Per
 

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Hi guys, I have also done a fan swap, but a different kind...

I used a 120mm computer fan and I mounted it in the lid. Cut a hole for it, screwed it on, connected it to the stock fan's wiring.

I haven't screwed the top back on yet because I'm not done in there yet. I'm working on some other things, like I might add a relay to power on

the amp using my receiver's power-on signal, so that when I turn my receiver on the amp turns on, and when receiver turns off, amp turns off.

Anyway, just another idea :T With this mod the amp is much quieter during normal use, and the 120mm fan can move a LOT of air so I have NO

worries about the unit staying cool. A typical 120mm computer fan moves about twice as much air at the same voltage as a typical 80mm computer

fan.

The fan still gets going fast if it's working hard, for example when I play a sustained 20Hz test tone with the gain up 3/4 of the way, the fan

soon reaches top speed. However, even just backing off to 30Hz, the fan speed lowers to a quieter level. It seems to work well so far.

The hardest part is cutting through the aluminum lid.

I was going to post pics but I'm not allowed to yet apparently. Man this forum has the strictest rules I have ever seen :huh:
 

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OK here are the pics, I did warn you the cuts were a little sloppy LOL... I was in a hurry, and frankly I don't care that much how the top of my subwoofer amp looks (it's hidden in my setup). This is also unfinished, I plan on adding a grille:





Also can anyone else spot the silly mistake I made? Give up? I'll tell you... I posted here in an iNuke 1000 thread, my amp is an iNuke 3000dsp LOL... BUT, in my defense, the 2 amps appear to have identical fan setups so the same mods should work for both hehe...

Edit: What the , the pictures aren't showing. I know I linked them correctly, I participate in many different forums and this is the first one I have used that wouldn't accept Flickr pictures. This forum just doesn't like me lol... Well, here are links for now:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8102119172/in/photostream

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8102118604/in/photostream
 

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My NU3000 "no fan, no top" mod is still working well after several months of daily use. It still does go "protect" occasionally but only if way loud or lots of bass. I am still driving two Bose 901 II per channel. One "mod" I did have to make this past summer was to make two sound-deadening barriers to appease my neighbor who is one of those odd people who likes to sleep at night :)

If I had time or talent, I would like to make a perforated top for the NU3000. It would look "cool" and probably allow enough circulation to cool as well, to use a punch or drill to make a zillion holes in the top, perhaps with a nice design like they used to do with antique "pie safes".
While it probably doesn't merit a photo, in essence what I did was cut foam board (for mounting) and glued two layers (4" total) of Owens-Corning 705 "acoustic fiberglass" and then covered with a white sheet (facing to outdoors) for appearance and control of loose fibers. I found out "too late" that this fiberglass is supposed to be for panels, not for soundproofing. Nonetheless, it works fine and the neighbor has not called (or threatened to call) the police since the barriers were installed, and he even helps me with my yard work :)
 

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My NU3000 "no fan, no top" mod is still working well after several months of daily use. It still does go "protect" occasionally but only if way loud or lots of bass. I am still driving two Bose 901 II per channel. One "mod" I did have to make this past summer was to make two sound-deadening barriers to appease my neighbor who is one of those odd people who likes to sleep at night :)

If I had time or talent, I would like to make a perforated top for the NU3000. It would look "cool" and probably allow enough circulation to cool as well, to use a punch or drill to make a zillion holes in the top, perhaps with a nice design like they used to do with antique "pie safes".
While it probably doesn't merit a photo, in essence what I did was cut foam board (for mounting) and glued two layers (4" total) of Owens-Corning 705 "acoustic fiberglass" and then covered with a white sheet (facing to outdoors) for appearance and control of loose fibers. I found out "too late" that this fiberglass is supposed to be for panels, not for soundproofing. Nonetheless, it works fine and the neighbor has not called (or threatened to call) the police since the barriers were installed, and he even helps me with my yard work :)
Hey that's cool that you can run it with no fan!! That is encouraging.

It does seem to me like the fan speed might not actually be temperature-based, but maybe it's current based or something? Because in my testing, it seems like if you push the amp hard, the fan speed goes into high even if the chips don't feel hot yet. Does that make sense?

That makes me think that with a 120mm fan, the fan control logic may be more aggressive than it really needs to be, so I was thinking about doing a trick often done with computer fans to make them quieter: solder a resistor inline with one of the fan wires. I'd expect this to make the fan run slower at any given input voltage, so the fan speed could still go faster or slower depending on the amp's usage, but overall the range of speeds would be slower.

As for your "no top, no fan" mod, and how you were thinking of drilling holes in the top: Just wanted to mention that the top is pretty easy to drill through. However, I can imagine it would be a lot of work to drill all those holes. May I suggest that you consider instead, cutting out a big hole in the top and covering it with something like speaker grill cloth, or metal mesh, or perforated metal or something with decent airflow?

One thing that comes to mind is expanded aluminum, with the diamond shaped holes, you could cut a hole and attach a piece of expanded aluminum from the backside of the top cover :D That might look cool...

I had another idea that might work for you, since your unit works without any fan MOST of the time. Have you considered just upgrading the heatsinks on the components that get hot? Maybe using heatsinks that big with tall fins, lots of surface area. Either one long skinny heatsink across all of the chips, or small individual heatsinks for each chip.

You can find heatsinks like this that are sold for computer use, intended to be used as either for RAM heatsinks, or chipset heatsinks. Then you can attach them with thermal epoxy (NOT thermal tape, that stuff is lame).

Since your amp only needs more cooling when pushed hard, I bet with the little extra help from better heatsinks, you could probably have adequate cooling just from convection! :D I am seriously considering trying this with my amp if I can find some heatsinks that fit the bill. Then I would just fill in the hole I made for the fan with a grille, or maybe even just leave the fan there in case i ever need to re-connect it. On second though, I would probably just add a toggle switch to the back of the case, so that I can enable or disable the fan at will :D

I love modding stuff...
 

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Hmm I wonder if you bent the existing copper "heatsinks" so they point straight up, and then thermal epoxied these to the top of each chip, if it would help enough to eliminate the fan?

http://dx.com/p/aluminum-cooler-heat-sink-chipset-for-ram-memory-square-type-8-piece-set-35817?item=116

Digikey also has tons of heatsinks to choose from but they are more expensive.

Here is a pretty cool one that isn't too expensive and I'm guessing would be overkill for each chip :D
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/658-60AB/345-1072-ND/340365
 

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I am not sure if I posted these before but this is my MOD. Along with the new Noctua fan and these vga heatsinks the Amp is plenty cool even when torturing with Transformers Dark of the moon. This is the NU3000DSP.










 

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I am not sure why Behringer cant read all these forums and makes these changes into production. and change the case to black. Whats so hard about the vga heatsinks and a quiet fan. I understand these are designed for the PRO set up however I am sure they have sold more to HT builders.
 
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