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BenQ W5000

16561 Views 57 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  lcaillo
I recently got in on the refurbished bandwagon for this projector. And I'm very happy with it. My old pj was the Mitsubishi HC3000 which was your average run of the mill 720p projector. The W5000 is a 1080p. I figured I'd share this journey! ;)

When the box showed up at the door I was amazed at how big it was. Turns out that they packed the actual pj in it's original box within this box. :dizzy: Opening up the pj box I was again amazed at how large this pj was. It was over double the size of my HC3000. Needless to say, hooking it up required a run to the local Best Buy to pick up a new mount. After hooking it up and running it the first time (1 hour on the bulb from the service center by the way), I was yet again amazed at the image it was capable of. I had thought that I had seen enough with my HC3000 that nothing could be that much better.

Anyway, I was originally going to write up a review on this projector but I figured there are more than enough floating around in cyberspace that it was unnecessary to do another. Plus it's a year old release. so instead I figured I'd add to the calibration side of things with a quick rundown of how this projector was, with relation to standards, out of the box. I'll also show how I got it close in about 45 minutes. I would have kept working on it but I ran out of time.

The equipment used was my eye-one pro spectrophotmeter - not to be confused with the numerous eye-one colorimeters floating around out on the market, a Sekonic L758C light/spot meter, my laptop, and CalMAN 3.3.

Back when I delved into calibrating my own projector, I used HCFR. While HCFR is an excellent tool, especially for beginners or the once a year folks, I found myself looking for more. Especially when I was posting some of the charts here and I found out that some of the math in the program was wrong. I believe this was fixed for the current release of HCFR. I still use it occasionally but I mainly use CalMAN.

CalMAN is a bit more intuitive than HCFR in that it actually has various modes that it can be run in. It has beginner mode for the beginner, intermediate mode (what I use) for a little more advanced use, advanced mode for those who want full control, and a design mode which states it’s for “Workspace design mode; chart and report layouts”. It’s a wonderful piece of software and well worth the $100 or so I paid for it. If you’re looking for the simple program that will guide you through by the hand eventually teaching you enough so that you can do what you want on your own, this is it.

Maybe after doing everything in CalMAN I'll redo it in HCFR and see what kind of difference there really is. :scratch:

These first four sets of readings are the 'out of box' readings on certain factory pre-set modes. The spectro was ~2 feet from the pj lens, facing the pj.
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Steven - you calibrate your gear. Have you done yours yet? I'd be interested in knowing whether or not you can get green to sit properly.... :scratch:
Mine is calibrated without the use of a quality colorimeter. I turn off the BC because I am in a light controlled room, set my gamma (screen dependent) to 2.8 for my Dalite High Power, set my manual iris to 0, DB to on, tint to -12, color to 53, and sharpness to -3. I used my THX glasses and my Optimizer 2.0 disk. The lamp will not be stable until after around 200 hours, but I'm not sure that I will need to do any kind of ISF calibration, or adjustments to the color management. I use no electronic sceen position adjustments. This is as close as I can get to making screen shots look right. I don't see any problems with green. Are you using the settings from 60P? You will want to use the CMS in that area to start with because the 24P CCS is best suited for other countries that will use PAL I think. It is fine if you want to write down the settings, then copy them over if that is what your having problems with.

edit: I also started with the Warm Color Temp.

This is with Photoshop resize, and Auto Color

These are with Photoshop resize, Auto Color, and A warming filter (85) at 50%.

[MOUSE]Digital SLR cameras will make the images look blue in tint by nature.[/MOUSE]

The left blue square turns slightly purple in the image that does not look true to life, but this is about as close as I can get I think to matching the colors with a digital SLR camera. I did not check other test patterns with the camera, as I was mostly looking for correct skin tone. The deep blacks in the camera also exhibit lines, which is also normal. If I had some kind of WB control on my camera besides Auto WB, I might get better grayscale but I only have a very old 3.2 megapixel Olympus camera. I do have a tripod to use however.

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Ok so here's the final charts after calibrating the pj. Remember this is the pj only! Nothing from the screen. That will come in the next few days and will more than likely be posted in the screen forum. About the only thing that I really want to work on is the gamma. It's low at 2.1 and I'd like to be in the 2.2-2.4 range.

Here's how it ended up:

RGB - got better readings on the lower end at night. Apparently some of the light leaking through may have messed with my lower readings.

Gamma - as I said, I need to get this up a bit more.

Gamut - I guess I am one of the many that cannot get green to sit properly. :dontknow: It's well within parameters though with a DeltaE of less than 4.

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So after finishing all of the above up last night, I had a little spare time. So I figured I might as well do a run through HCFR and see how the two programs match up. The results from HCFR stunned me. :blink: There will be a short explanation following the charts.

Grayscale measures - not even close

Primaries and secondaries

Color Temp

Gamma - the only thing that was close...

RGB levels - way off...

CIE plot

As you can see it's quite a bit different than the results from CalMAN. At first I figured that I had a bad calibration of my eye-one pro spectrophotmeter. So I re-calibrated and re-did them again. They came out identical and that is what you are looking at up above. At that point I was fairly certain that HCFR was again mired by bad math. The original version was so i figured they had yet to fix it. But later, after heading to bed, I came to realize that these measurements were taken with the diffuser in place. I don't think HCFR is very accurate with the diffuser in place. CalMAN requires it when pointing the meter at the pj. I guess what I'm saying is don't come to any conclusions quite yet. I'll redo the HCFR readings again on Wednesday and see if in fact, teh diffuser is the cause for the major errors.
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With the HCFR you need to remove the diffuser to take the measurements!
I actually knew that Rodny. I just forgot to in this case. :hide: The confusing thing to come out of that was that the diffuser causes that much of a shift in the measurements? :dunno:

New readings will be coming today with HCFR.
I have a lot of trouble getting correct Gamma readings...:wits-end: Even set at 2.2 in best mode I obtain 1.8 when measuring. That's a pity, there must be something wrong. I am also only getting about 6.5 FL from the sensor pointed to the screen with 100 IRE. It doesn't look so dark to me though.

Mech, do you measure directly from the projector? What about brightness, how do you measure it?
Hey Blaser did you calibrate the sensor??

How many hours on the bulb??
Rodney! How are you? The bulb is a replacement bulb with only 333 Hrs now on it.

I use HCFR and I press the measure, calibrate sensor tab, I put the eye one sensor on something very dark and that's it. The calibration is very fast though, just when I press the button, it is instantly done. I am not very sure this is correct...:whew:
Everything so far has been projector only. After dinner tonight I plan on doing another run of HCFR pointed at the projector. And then I'm going to do a calibration with the screen. If I am correct in my thinking, very little if any will need to be adjusted since Black Widow is D65.

If your gamma is too low, then your image may be too dim with your blacks being too bright. I fixed my gamma by adjusting my W5000 up to a gamma of 2.4. I did a reading of it yesterday and it was 2.2 across the board. I believe your gamma will be fine once you get everything else set right. Work on your black and white levels Ahmed, after that check your grayscale, and when you get that all set do your primaries and secondaries. Hopefully lcaillo will chime in if I'm cuckoo!

As for the 6.5fL, have you tried moving the sensor around? Ideally you should be somewhere around 12fL. I measure my brightness using a spot meter. My HC3000 with a new bulb was ~12fL. I haven't checked the W5000 yet but I'll do it tonight and let you know. I use a 100IRE window for that.
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Thanks Mech, and apologies I don't mean to highjack your thread.
I have done all this, can't get the blue excactly right, and I have manually adjusted the Gamma to be about 2.1, but that's the highest setting I could obtain...Anyway I feel there's either something wrong with the sensor calibration or with the sensor itself.
Hey Mech!

can you explain the Panamorph set up on that projector??
What it is
How it works....etc:bigsmile:


To be honest, I have yet to use it. I completely forgot about the feature until you mentioned it now. I'll give it a try this next week and report back! :T


Hi! So I have a new BenQ W5000 and will be setting it up this fall. I'm not a calibrator at all. Do you have any suggestions on how to get it tweaked a little better than out of the box? How can I get into the service menu to adjust the settings?

And overall how do you like the projector? What screen and size do you have? I was looking at a DIY 110" 2:35:1 and adding a DIY anamorphic lens on a sled. Any suggestions on screen color? It will be in a room that is not totally dark during the day but close and certainly dark at night.

Any help is greatly appreciated!! :T
Hi Ken! I love the BenQ W5000. It was quite the leap from a HC3000U. You'll definitely want to stick to 'User Mode1' with 'warm' selected for color temp. That was the closest to calibrated 'out of the box' I saw. Standard mode was fairly close as well. If you watch hockey as I do, you may like the 'Dynamic' mode for that. I like the blue push when watching hockey for some reason. :dontknow:

I have a 100" Black Widow right now. But I'm switching to a 106" Elite Silver Frame CineGrey soon. I would recommend either C&S or Scorpion N8.5 for a diy paint. And the Elite CineGrey for a commercial option. :T
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