Mine is calibrated without the use of a quality colorimeter. I turn off the BC because I am in a light controlled room, set my gamma (screen dependent) to 2.8 for my Dalite High Power, set my manual iris to 0, DB to on, tint to -12, color to 53, and sharpness to -3. I used my THX glasses and my Optimizer 2.0 disk. The lamp will not be stable until after around 200 hours, but I'm not sure that I will need to do any kind of ISF calibration, or adjustments to the color management. I use no electronic sceen position adjustments. This is as close as I can get to making screen shots look right. I don't see any problems with green. Are you using the settings from 60P? You will want to use the CMS in that area to start with because the 24P CCS is best suited for other countries that will use PAL I think. It is fine if you want to write down the settings, then copy them over if that is what your having problems with.Steven - you calibrate your gear. Have you done yours yet? I'd be interested in knowing whether or not you can get green to sit properly.... :scratch:
edit: I also started with the Warm Color Temp.
This is with Photoshop resize, and Auto Color
These are with Photoshop resize, Auto Color, and A warming filter (85) at 50%.
[MOUSE]Digital SLR cameras will make the images look blue in tint by nature.[/MOUSE]
The left blue square turns slightly purple in the image that does not look true to life, but this is about as close as I can get I think to matching the colors with a digital SLR camera. I did not check other test patterns with the camera, as I was mostly looking for correct skin tone. The deep blacks in the camera also exhibit lines, which is also normal. If I had some kind of WB control on my camera besides Auto WB, I might get better grayscale but I only have a very old 3.2 megapixel Olympus camera. I do have a tripod to use however.