I was wanting to build a 12" with pr or pr's. I think the model is xxls series, but im unsure which one is available in australia. I was thinking of building the Mach 5 18.2.2 but the size of the box is to big. I dont want to build anything bigger than 200lt, and dont want a sealed sub only ported or pr's.
Will be powering the sub with 500 to 1000w amp depending on the sub and application.
Mike, would you recommend their box size? or would it be beneficial to go bigger and tune lower.
Would one driver be enough bass (When is enough enough I know!) for a small room or would a pr design yield better results?
Could I replace my current driver 12" Magnat1200xtc with the 12"xxls Peerless, The box is 100lt tuned to 22hz with a 240 watt plate amp 6db bass boost at 35hz and no high pass filter. The problem I have with the current setup is it just runs out of legs with music but is awsome for movies.
More than happy to build a new box if needed. I want to do this right as this will be the one I keep. This is my 4th DIY Sub and each one has been better and better but each time more $$$.
Design: Box no larger than 200lt, Amp 500 to 1000w, funds $1000 - $1200au, Love the look of Pr's, Love the look of an 18" also, up for any suggestions.
There's nothing wrong with an IXL-18 in 200 liters tuned to 20 hz if you're willing to build a slot port. Orange is the IXL18 as stated with 1000 watts and a HPF at 16 hz.
Green is the Peerless recommendation which is for music and not HT. It's modeled with 350 watts and a HPF at 24 hz.
Pink would be the Peerless in the box you have now, 250 watts and a HPF at 20 hz. Both peerless models won't work with the amp you have because of the boost. All 3 models are with the subs at Xmax. You definitely wouldn't be running out of legs with the IXL-18.
Thats great Mike, thankyou very much for the information. I will start a new build thread in a couple of days. I will go with the Mach 5 18.2.2. Very easy to get in Australia through Affordable drivers web site.
You could double wall the enclosure but it's going to be a heavy cabinet.
Pro amps are great for the power but lack the HPF. You have to allow more $$$ for that. A 500 watt plate amp would have 3 db less output then shown in the above modeling. What you decide on for an amp will determine the size/air speed of the port.
The amp I will go with will be the o audio bash 500w, do you think that will be ok? Dont think I would want an 90kg sub, so I will stick with bracing. My current sub is about 40kg which landed me at chiro's once before.
The O-Audio 500 watt amp that is available in Australia is supposedly modified to not have any boost like the amp that is available in the U.S. Contact the dealer that's selling the amp and find out if the amp has boost applied at the various hi-pass filters. This will determine what size ports you should use.
OAudio subwoofer amplifiers
As well as the SGR amps, Audiomarketplace are also selling the somwhat more affordable OAudio 500w amp.
500 watt : OAudio
500W RMS into 4ohms @ 0.3% THD
420W RMS into 4ohms @ 0.05% THD
325W RMS into 8ohms @ 0.01% THD
S/N (A-weighted): 105dB
Lowpass Crossover: 40Hz to 120Hz, 4th order
Parametric EQ: 20Hz to 80Hz, 0 to -12dB, variable Q
Continuous Phase Adjustment
OAudio 500w amp at Audiomarketplace $495 AUD incl GST (29th June 2009)
The Manual and User Guide (links courtesy of pochoboy at AVS Forum)
I was looking at the members DIY subwoofer database last night and I think a slotted port would be easy enough to build and would help to limit the height of the box. I will be starting the box on the weekend and I will start a new thread with the correct name.
Thanks Mike for your quick replies.
And so it begins again. Will cost just under $1200au complete and should be more than enough bang for my little room.
You'll have to use the 20 hz Hi-Pass filter which has about 4 db of boost (which you can cut with the EQ) Assuming you don't cut the boost your porting options are a 6" round port 22.5" long. The port must be flared. A slot port would need to be 2" high by 18" wide by 29" long. Any corners and edges need to be rounded over.