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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Guys, it's time to take LFE as one of the priority again. I'm very new to DIY sub arena, hope you will tolerate my stupid questions. IB dream has gone to back bench due to some family commitments and the current house we stay.

Inspired and tempted by some of the designs and outputs seen on AVF (UK) including Dan's, decided to build my own. It would be AV15X dual driver in a single sealed box, though not confirmed. Yet to decide on the amp but I may go with EP4000 or similar stuff.

My goal is to achieve 20hz-100hz range, smaller foot print

Could anyone check the T/S parameters and design and confirm I'm on right track please?

Thank you

 

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Elite Shackster
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TSP's are good, and box size is good. The result is very similar to what WinISD gets as well.

Have you decided on the type of driver alignment you want. If possible I would recommend a push pull alignment if you can. Even with these drivers it improves the sound, and Ive had this confirmed by 2 others, so I'm pretty sure its not me going nuts :D. If not then a dual opposed will work very well, like the Seaton Submerrsive.

There is a definite preference for ported subs over here in the US though, have you considered going that route, or are you settled on a sealed design?

BTW, I plan to order the drivers tomorrow night, when a cheque clears in my account :T
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
OH like the looks of 2 drivers on same baffle (aka JL A F212) and I'd like a bit more musical edge delivered from the build.

I'm not in hurry at all, order at your convenience.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I've a SVS SB12+ hooked up to squeezebox boom for musical duties, but no subwoofer in cinema setup.

I'm in the process of buying a router, any tips?

It'll certainly look serious. These drivers are also very musical :T

Are you subless now?
 

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Elite Shackster
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I went and bought a cheap £40 one from a local DIY store. It came with a circle jig and straight cut jig, and I really cant fault it. I then bough a router bit kit for about £25 and Ive got everything I need. As long as you have decent bits your golden really, and I was surprised at just how inexpensive it turned out to be :T
 

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I got my router from screwfix for £59 and came with a 15 piece router bit set with it. A circular jig can be made with 6mm or less thick mdf. Easy peasy. One thing to remember which I found out is that if you plan to use larger route bits you need to make sure you have enough clearance to get it in and make sure you can use both 1/4 and 1/2 router bits.

You may find you will need to spend a bit more if you plan to use 1.5" round over bits.



cheers

Graham
 

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I've a SVS SB12+ hooked up to squeezebox boom for musical duties, but no subwoofer in cinema setup.

I'm in the process of buying a router, any tips?
A cheap tool is one that you will replace.

I suggest a Bosch or Dewalt. Get one that comes with a plunge base(most useful base IMO).

I personally use a Bosch 1617 and it's terrific. The best tool I own. For cutting circles make sure you get a high quality spiral upcutting bit and a jasper jig.

Cheap bits can kill you so don't go cheap there.
 

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I don't think you need to go any where near as far as a Dewalt. Save your money. Yes they are great tools and probably one of the best but for cutting circles you just need a middle of the range route. It takes seconds to cut a circle even with my £60 router. I made my circle jig out of mdf and have used it successfully on all three of my subs I have made and it will still last me more.

It depends on what you need it for.

Oh! I paid £10 for my extra trimming router bit and it didn't kill me. I am still building my next sub!

cheers

Graham
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks Guys, will consider all the suggestions. B&Q / Home base does have some nice mid budget routers. Also Amazon has some good deals on Bosch.

Another big q! 18mm or 25mm MDF for cabinet? I'm bit concerned about the weight that build up if I use 25mm. Once constructed I've to take it to first floor living room :(
 

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Suniil

My first sealed sub was 25mm mdf and whilst much more sturdy it was crazy heavy. My box was 22" wide by 36" high by 33" deep and the mdf weighed abou 200lbs without the drivers and they weighed 100lbs for the both. My ported subs are 18mm mdf and they are big and weigh alot less than the first sub.

If its quite small go for 25mm but if its big go for 18mm aslong as you brace it well enough you will be fine.

My ported are 22" wide by 42" high by 28" deep and they are sturdy as you like with 18mm mdf.

What size is your sub.

cheers

Graham
 

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Elite Shackster
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Ive used 25mm and a bit of critical bracing, they are heavy but very solid!

I would use lots of bracing with 18mm, which may slightly increase cabinet size slightly if a lot of bracing is needed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks Graham, cabinet size would be close to 37"x19"x19". Glad you mentioned the weight of your box, that noway I can take upstairs.

Dan, 18mm with lot of bracing will also add more weight. I may stick to 25mm outer with 1 or 2 18mm bracing.

Mods: could you please move this thread to DIY:General section. Thank you
 

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Suniil,

For that size I would use 25mm mdf. Are you doing a dual front firing sealed sub. If so then you wouldn't need that much bracing. Probably just 3 horizontal braces will do fine with no vertical brace. The thickness of the wood will make it pretty solid. Yes it may be quite heavy but you should still be able to lift it withouth the drivers in.

My subs are much bigger with 18mm mdf and some bracing and mine is solid as a rock.

Good luck matey.

cheers
Graham
 

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Elite Shackster
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Mods: could you please move this thread to DIY:General section. Thank you
Is this going to be your build thread now then, and did it get moved (looks like it has), if not I'll take a look and move it if needed.

I agree on the bracing, make it out of 25mm with a couple 18mm braces, especially between the drivers if they are being same face mounted.
 
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