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I have read that window bracing is the most effective and that is from a speaker designer, not a DIYer. The reasoning for that is when it attaches to the sidewall (in my case I dado'ed them in) they stiffen the flat surface much like an I beam is stronger than a plain steel plate. The dowel method only has one point on the panel so it does not stiffed the panel as much as a window brace.
That's actually the way I prefer to do it, but on this particular project I didn't want to buy that much plywood and/or hardwood 2x2's due to not having a lot of cash at the time. Also figured the 3/4" void free plywood would be sturdy enough to keep me happy with the simple hardwood beam approach, and it seems to be.

I'll be paying a bit more attention to bracing on my tapped horn project though. Lots of leftover plywood around here right now, so I can afford to go nuts on it a bit.
 

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I have read that window bracing is the most effective and that is from a speaker designer, not a DIYer.
Speaker designers also argue about what is best. Here is a very long thread in which some really really smart people, some of whom happen to be speaker designers, discuss various aspects of box design, including bracing.

I agree with Lonely Raven that measurements would be good and that this would show a measurable winner. I'm willing to bet that in some cases, the practical differences in bracing styles would not be audibly noticeable.
 
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