THey appear as bumps towards the upper end of the drivers range. In the vast majority of cases they occur above where the 30 degree off-axis response is down by more than 6dB from on-axis, placing them above where the crossover should occur anyway.
THey appear as bumps towards the upper end of the drivers range. In the vast majority of cases they occur above where the 30 degree off-axis response is down by more than 6dB from on-axis, placing them above where the crossover should occur anyway.Are there any clues in the frequency response charts?
Jim
When used in higher octaves [non-subwoofer] paper cones are more likely than a relatively more rigid cone such a metal one to have these resonances in the intended passband. Thus at times, due to this less rigid structure, implementation of a paper cone will require allowing audible cone resonance to enter the signal path. While using a more rigid material in such an application will typically allow for no breakup nodes in the passband presuming a sufficiently designed crossover and driver. If one is experiencing distortion from cone break up is due to improper driver choice coupled with poor crossover design.Also, breakup nodes are less of an issue with paper or hybrid cones. All metal cones sound like breaking glass when they breakup. Not really, but you get a top layer of shrill distortion. that is pretty noticeable (and it's usually specific -- you'll listen to one passage and the speaker sounds great, then it hits that one note and you want to cringe). But paper cones don't sound this harsh, so something to consider.
Often the mfgr's posted impedance plot is a good starting point.I should probably stick with woofers tested independently. I don't care for the idea of spending money on something I may not use.
I'm looking to build a set of 5 sealed 2-way monitors. I'm considering the SEAS CA18RLY, a 6.5" woofer with a SEAS 27TDFC with a crossover somewhere between 1500-2000 Hz. My goal is to build some high quality speakers for less that $200 each.
I see that but I wonder how noticeable that might be. The plot doesn't look terribly detailed.Often the mfgr's posted impedance plot is a good starting point.
(URL redacted because I have <10 posts) Here we see an interesting situation. The FR plot starts getting weird ~500Hz, but the first significant wobble in the impedance plot is ~900Hz.
This one looks really good from the plots. One thing that concerns me. The EPB is over 100 for this driver. Doesn't that suggest it wouldn't be suitable for a sealed application or isn't that important? It looks like it has plenty of Xmax for sealed though.Another driver you might consider is Peerless Nomex 830875 - 6.5" (URL redacted because I have <10 posts) I heard it's little brother the 5-1/4" in a system a couple weeks ago, and it was quite neutral
It's detailed enough. In the on-axis plot the breakup is visible starting at 3kHz. The 30 degree off-axis at 3kHz looks fine, so you could cross it there, and with a third order LP most of the breakup would be attenuated, but based on the 60 degree off-axis I'd cross it at 2.5 to 2.8 kHz.I see that but I wonder how noticeable that might be. The plot doesn't look terribly detailed.
Same crossover for the same reason. As for the EBP, 100 doesn't automatically take it out of consideration for a sealed alignment, that's where modeling comes in.This one looks really good from the plots. One thing that concerns me. The EPB is over 100 for this driver. Doesn't that suggest it wouldn't be suitable for a sealed application or isn't that important? It looks like it has plenty of Xmax for sealed though.
Since you reference building 5 speakers, are they going to be used with a sub? If so go sealed regardless of the EPB number.This one looks really good from the plots. One thing that concerns me. The EPB is over 100 for this driver. Doesn't that suggest it wouldn't be suitable for a sealed application or isn't that important? It looks like it has plenty of Xmax for sealed though.
Yes, I have a Hsu VTF3-Mk3. I'm replacing a set of low end Klipsch speakers. I'd prefer to build them myself if I can come up with a design that seems to work. I really would like to try to build some really decent sealed monitors. I'm shooting for a Qtc of 0.707 and I'd like to try a lower crossover point to get it out of the 2-4k range. The tweeter I'm considering should be able to handle it.Since you reference building 5 speakers, are they going to be used with a sub? If so go sealed regardless of the EPB number.
BTW, I see you recently got a Behmor, sounds like fun....:bigsmile:
Sid
VBM Super Domobar Levetra...:yes: