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Discussion Starter #62 (Edited)
Finnished 4 diffusors & frames 2x4ft & 2x3ft with 4 Flutter Echo tiles per frame...
They will be hung slightly angled down.. They are mounted from A peace of 25mm x 32mm hard wood screwed into the stud of the wall then the mount on the back of each frame is simply hung off it....But the Diffusor mount is not fixed in place on the back of frame untill I check were the wall studs are so I can determine exactly where to mount it to the back...

I will mount them tomorrow and post some pictures of them in place & now that I have Acoustisofts RplusD software I will be able to check the theatres acoustic performance & placement of my room treatments thus far :daydream:....

Cheers...
 

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Discussion Starter #63 (Edited)
Couple of pictures of the Diffusor panels mounted Next to the left & right side Surround speakers next to the Rear corner BroadBand bass traps & first reflection point traps for the second row.. But will be Repositioned to suit the smaller Bipole surround speakers when in place....

Because this is only A 5.1 set up there will be Bipole surrounds placed between the first and second row of seats and the larger 3way mono pole surround speakers picture will be placed at the rear for A 7.1 setup and the new theatre seats for the back row will be placed 2' to 3' of the rear wall...

Note that where the smaller 3' diffusors have been placed is close to the recommended 52% from back wall placement position ...

Cheers....
 

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Jason, those look great!

I built something similar from MDF years ago, and I want to use them on the back wall to kill flutter echo...but many of the acoustic experts tell me I'm wasting my time with diffusion...that I should just put up a bunch of absorption and be done with it...

But I've always had my audio rooms built with lots of diffusion to give a very live sound, and then only used absorption to deal with trouble frequencies and the low end peaks and nulls.

Here is what I have currently (sold most of my diffusers just before I moved):



Mine are 4" deep, so they are a bit more broadband than yours, but they are also 60+lbs if I remember correctly. I'm doubting I'll be able to hang them on the wall the way I'd like to.

I'm really liking your builds and would love to copy them, though I don't have a router table. I may just have to use a table saw for similar results.

I'll be following this thread to see how you like the diffusion throughout your theater...I'm finishing up my first 7.1 setup, and stuck with the diffusion/absorption. Hopefully following your thread will help me figure out where I'm going to go from here.

Great thread by the way!
 

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Discussion Starter #68
Hi Lonely Raven & thanks for your post,

Wow Your QRD Diffusors look great :T, Have you ever used them??

The reason I used A shallow well QRD design is because of the close facinity of the seating, the deeper the well of A QRD Diffusor the further away you should sit to alow optimum Diffusing performance...

Yes I have heard the same type of comments from A couple of Acoustic experts, I think it goes without saying that Absorbtion will give the most noticable improvement to A point but both Absorbtion & Diffusion are just as important in obtaining A well balanced lively ambient sound..

The problem is Knowing what Types of diffusors/Absorbers will work best given the room you are trying to treat inc seating positions in accomplishing A good result...
Although there is A general rule of thumb for Absorbtion placement areas I think Room Acoustic software is A overlooked & vital part of the equation in helping to get A well balanced sound ....

FWIW I am playing with Acoustisoft's RplusD software at the moment and having Doug Plumb perform A consultation...

More Diffusors to come stay tuned: next Skyline Diffusor

Cheers....
 

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I have used those diffusers a little. I used them between my main speakers when I was doing two channel listening. I also used several larger QRDs built from the Decware plans along the side walls. I never got enough made to do any on the back wall of my listening room, and wound up selling all but these two units before I moved.

I really enjoyed the live sound of a bunch of QRDs. I had enough to give the discs I listened to added reverb...some may think too much.

Which makes me wonder how it's going to work for you, with 7.1 speakers all throwing sound into diffusers...
 

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Discussion Starter #70
At the moment I only have A 5.1 set up so the Diffusors work fine but I will soon Mount some Dipole surounds on the Sides and move the 3way Mono poles to the rear for 7.1, then I will have to reposition the Flutter Echo Diffusors on the back wall or something as I know they cant stay near those Diples :daydream:...

Cheers....
 

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I'm following closely in your footsteps, CM!

I couldn't sleep last night, so I started working on these.



I'm recycling some American Oak stair treads that have been in storage for the past 13 years. They happened to be the same thickness as the design that inspired mine, so I worked from those measurements.

Unfortunately, just as I was cruising through the deepest cuts, the motor failed on my table saw! I can't afford this right now! I'm hoping I can figure out how to fix it myself.



When/If I ever get these done (I have four of them I'm working on now for the back wall), I'll be staining them in a deep cherry color to match the trim I've still yet to install. LOL
 

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Discussion Starter #73
Wow they look good so far Raven, I think staining them as aposed to painting is the best option Especialy with hard wood. Deep Cheery will look Awesome...

What happend to your saw :yikes: that is an induction motor & are usually very reliable,
Does The motor Hummmm or did smoke come out of the capasitor cover on top of the motor, because it could be the Start/run capasitor which is an easy fix...

Its A pitty I am across the pond or I would fix it for you, but if you discribe what it did before it stopped may help....

Cheers....
 

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Wow they look good so far Raven, I think staining them as aposed to painting is the best option Especialy with hard wood. Deep Cheery will look Awesome...

What happend to your saw :yikes: that is an induction motor & are usually very reliable,
Does The motor Hummmm or did smoke come out of the capasitor cover on top of the motor, because it could be the Start/run capasitor which is an easy fix...

Its A pitty I am across the pond or I would fix it for you, but if you discribe what it did before it stopped may help....

Cheers....
The motor was having trouble spinning and popped the breaker. I took it all down (belt drive) and found it was *not* the arbor, belt, angle, or tension...so I started looking at the motor. It's a combination of things I feel. The bearing felt tight rather than smooth, the armature looks like it was rubbing a bit, I believe I did see a little smoke from the cap...and the little plastic looking disc that I believe the current passes through (not sure how but a copper leaf rides on this bakelite looking disc) is cracked and broken.

I'm attempting to clean and lub the bearings, and epoxy the backside of this disc...but if it passes current the way it looks, then I'm betting it's no go. If all that works, I'll track down a new capaciter. At this point, I should probably just track down a new motor. I just really can't afford this right now...so I'm kinda stuck on all projects till I can get the table saw spinning again.
 

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Discussion Starter #75
The bearings should'nt be tight at all and can lead to issues, It sounds like the Rotor (armature) was poling (rubbing on the stator)... The little Slip ring on the front of the Rotor is only used for Start up it basiclly Engages & disengages the start cap for higher start-up torque it works on centrifugal force, once the motor is spinning at A certain RPM the slip ring disengages the start cap...

Cheers Lonely Raven...
 

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The bearings should'nt be tight at all and can lead to issues, It sounds like the Rotor (armature) was poling (rubbing on the stator)... The little Slip ring on the front of the Rotor is only used for Start up it basiclly Engages & disengages the start cap for higher start-up torque it works on centrifugal force, once the motor is spinning at A certain RPM the slip ring disengages the start cap...

Cheers Lonely Raven...
Thanks for that education. I'll be shopping for a used motor and I'll chime in when I get my diffusers done.
 

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Discussion Starter #77
If you can, See If you can fined an induction motor with higher hp rating than the original motor but runs around the same RPM as the old motor, "the RPM is the important thing to remember", also the shaft & Key way OD That way you can just swap the pully's straight over and your good to go....

Cheers...
 

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I was poking around, and all the induction motors seem to be direct drive setups. Which just isn't possible with this particular saw. All the cap-start, belt drive motors that fit this table are 1HP, 3450RPM with the same pully diameter and shaft setup...which at least makes it easy to swap out another motor.
 

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OK, I'm back on track to trying to get caught up with you! I picked up a replacement saw tonight!



And yes, it happens to be the same 25 year old one as mine! LOL

Mine was more tricked out, so I swapped the motor into my old saw which has a cast iron top and better fence. And I got to work!



I'm *really* shocked as to how much this wood warped since Sunday when my saw died! Because I didn't get the relief cuts done before the saw died, it was starting to bow and twist a bit...so my cuts were off quite a bit on some passes because the wood was no longer square. It doesn't help that it was already checked and chipped from being in storage for 13 years....so dont' pick on me for the veins being off! :nerd:





OK, it's way past my bedtime...I need to be up for work in 5 hours.

Mad, do you have any tips on how I should stain and clearcoat these? I have some nice oil based stain I plan on using...but I'm wondering if I only clearcoat the front side, will that cause it to warp badly because the backside is untreated?
 

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Discussion Starter #80
Wow Raven you have been working very hard by the looks of it :yikes:, I am impressed.. your not mucking about gettin straight back into it LoL... Good to see you have your table saw up and running...

Yes those cuts in the back are very important to relieve the tension out of the wood & stop the Diffusors warping....

As far as staining I would say just stain the fronts and sides thats all I did & I have'nt noticed any warping, I used A little artist brush to get down into the Diffusion Wells and then used A piece of cotton sheet to quickly rub off the excess to get A nice even stain...

Before Staining I spent A while sanding the diffusors first especially in the Wells, I started with 120grit then 240grit then 420grit to get A nice smooth finnish....

For the clear coats I made sure the Diffusors were free of dust and just painted on with A brush carfully so as not to get air bubbles, so I only stirred the clear in the tin not shaken..
I poured A little at A time into A cup so I would'nt contaminate the large tin of clear with the stain residue that is left on the paint brush after applying the clear coat....

Is that your Blue Suzuki Motor Bike ? what size is it, I am mad on bikes :devil:....

Cheers....
 
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