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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This is a fun little (in my world) $300 8 inch MTM project I stumbled upon that uses the Dayton classic drivers, 8" Woofer 295-310 and the 1-1/8" Silk Dome tweeter 275-070. It can be ported or sealed.
The internal dimensions are 49” x 16.5” x 9.5” although I did modify this so that the longest piece of plywood would be 48’’ which happens to be the width of plywood in my neck of the woods. The port is 4inch diameter x 4.5’’

The driver spacing that I used left 3/4" between the woofer frame and the tweeter face plate. The tweeter is offset 3/4" also.

The baffle of course is 2 layers, inside being mdf and outside is plywood, stained with walnut (to cover all my woodworking imperfections of which there are usually many) and then water based Poly to seal things up. I used 5 braces inside, with 2 ea. 3” holes to breath.


Here are some pictures of the finished product but don’t look too close cause you will see all the mistakes.







So how do these sound? Well I have been listening to JCD’s RS 3ways for awhile now, and these of course are not as accurate, nor does this sound as good. Also I would not consider these as ‘Audiophile’ quality.(Yes I know) this would be comparing apples to oranges since the RS 3way’s are…3ways and use the reference series drivers, and more care was put into the 3way’s Xover. I just wanted to give a little comparison with something others might know. But at $300 these do pound the house nicely and I really liked the sound. I found that the silky tweeter is very seductive to listen to, in that the sound stage presented is very smooth, and when I move my head side to side the sound does not change as much as the rs tweet seems to. If your budget is tight and you need something that goes louder than usual while still putting out quality sound, I can absolutely recommend this project.

Here is the archive for this project. http://www.angelfire.com/music5/audio0/

ted list of parts for the DJ8MTM all from Parts Express...



Part Number Description Qty. Price Ext. Price
004-20 DAYTON 20 OHM 10W NON-INDUCTIVE.. 2
027-344 15uF-100V NON-POLARIZED CAPACIT.. 2
027-354 50uF-100V NON-POLARIZED CAPACIT.. 2
027-430 DAYTON 12uF-250V POLYPROPYLENE .. 2
266-313 .27mH 14 GA. PERFECT LAYER INDU.. 2
266-320 .40mH 14 GA. PERFECT LAYER INDU.. 2
266-812 .33mH 18 GA PERFECT LAYER INDUC.. 2
275-070 DAYTON 1-1/8" SILK DOME TWEETER.. 2
295-310 DAYTON 8" WOOFER .. 4
027-429 DAYTON 7.5uF-250V POLYPROPYLENE.. 2
004-2.4 DAYTON 2.4 OHM 10W NON-INDUCTIV.. 2
004-4.7 DAYTON 4.7 OHM 10W NON-INDUCTIV.. 2
027-348 Dayton 22uF 100V Non-Polarized Capacitor 2

Notes

Parallel the 50uf and the 22uF to make the 72uF cap
Use the 15uF for the 16uF
Use the 7.5uF for the 7.2uF
Use the 12uF for the 11.5uF
Use the 2.4 Ohm for the 2.5 Ohm
Use the 4.7 Ohm for the 4.5 Ohm
Use the .4mH for the .45mH
Use the .33mH for the .35mH
 

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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Unfortunely no. At this time I have no test equipment, but that will change in the near future with a build of the Modulas and dual 15" bass bins to go with them. I will be actively Xing over that system and using a BFD so I quess you can say I am getting off my blessed assurance and will start doing some testing.
 

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Nice Job. The build looks great. They turned out very nice.

The Dayton Classics are a nice speaker. I have to agree with your assessment about the difference between a speaker using the classic series vs the reference. I built a pair of triune(tritrix) and a pair of natalie p's and while both sound great, the natalie p's provide a distinction in imaging, sound, and accuracy that the classics, cannot. That being said, I loved the set of triunes I built. They sound was very very nice, detailed and warm. I'd consider them audiophile, but I guess that line is different for different people.

Kyle
 

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Discussion Starter #9
It looks good except there is one part missing which was missing from the original parts list:doh:
027-348 Dayton 22uF 100V Non-Polarized Capacitor 2Each, to parallel with the 50uf 100v, to make a total of 72uf 100v.:rolleyesno: Now I remember when I built these I found that discrepancy but I forgot to add it into the list.
Add 1 brace behind the tweeter, 1 just below the lower woof, and 2 more lower down, Just remember the port goes between #2 and #3 brace or you can locate it on the bottom if you wish, or on the back for that matter.

For the Xover the top line is positive, lower is negative. Lay out the parts exactly as you see it in the diagram, twist leads together, Take a picture and let us look at it before you solder:whistling:

The baffle is double thick, I used MDF for the inner piece, ply on the outside, 4 feet tall. That means the absolute max height of this box is 4 feet. There is a top and bottom piece to a box right? How are you going to put the box together? Put the sides together then slap the top and bottom on? Or will the top and bottom be "inside'' of the side pieces? Its up to you so You Will Have To calculate the dimensions of those pieces. It does not matter so...
 
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