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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have previously been looking into getting a BIC F12 but decided I would rather build a sub myself that will outperform it and, of course, be something I'm proud of. Basically my budget is $200 and under for the sound equipment, the extra cost of the enclosure not included in that budget. I have entered the rest of my relevant equipment in my profile.

The current room is ~24'x20' and very open, practically double that space. We're planning on moving within the next 6 months so I can't even guess room sizes really. All I want is something that will give a nice little punch during movie watching since currently it's a 5.0 setup. Chest rattling is not necessary, in fact, I would probably never turn it up that much even if I had/have something capable. 60% Movies, 35% games, 5% music/other.

That being said (thanks for reading all that if you did!), I am looking for suggestions on best bang for my buck parts. Size of the enclosure I would like to be no larger than my front floor standing speakers. Any links to other's projects etc. for visual representation of suggestions are more than welcome. Thanks! And hello from a first time poster.
 

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Welcome to HTS!

It shouldn't be hard to out-do the F12. What is your limitation on cabinet size or dimensions? That's probably the biggest deciding factor. With a $100 100W plate amp and a $85 Dayton DCS305 you could make a pretty decent combo. Depending on your size constraints: 2.2cuft sealed box (size of an F12), or 4.5cuft ported to 22Hz:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Welcome to HTS!

It shouldn't be hard to out-do the F12. What is your limitation on cabinet size or dimensions? That's probably the biggest deciding factor. With a $100 100W plate amp and a $85 Dayton DCS305 you could make a pretty decent combo. Depending on your size constraints: 2.2cuft sealed box (size of an F12), or 4.5cuft ported to 22Hz:
Thanks for the suggestions. 4.5 ft³ is doable for me. The graph you posted, what exactly is that showing? And what values did you enter into WinISD? It's all new for me, I tried to enter the values manually but was getting errors. Like I said in the title, newbie here just trying to learn and put some woodworking skills to use.
 

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You would need to create a new driver in the database within winISD by entering all of the parameters on the specsheet. Check out our tutorial.

Power is 100W for both, 18Hz HPF applied to the vented sub (which is built into the Dayton SA100). The vented sub would need at least a 4" round port 12.5" long (22Hz in 4.5cuft net volume), or two 3"x15.25" ports. The response of the sealed sub looks nice also, definitely a consideration for the size. Neither would produce enormous amount of SPL, but considering the low budget I think either would blow people away.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ok, some questions that were haunting me before but after searching around I think I have solid answers, just looking for some confirmation:

1) bracing in the box. What I've learned is there shouldn't be more than 12" between braces and/or box surface and the braces shouldn't be equally spread. True?

2) a good brace style would be one that is a piece connected to every surface of the box with a few large holes cut out of the middle? How big should the holes be and how much does this kind of brace affect sound quality, if at all? would this be a good brace style for a ported build as a source to run the port through?

3) is it true that for a 4" port I would want it to be 4" from the box surface? 3" for 3" port etc.

4) insulation, should I use it? Where do I get it?

Thanks everyone for your help.
 

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1) The goal of bracing is to make the enclosure acoustically inert. How you go about doing that is up to you really. Take a look at some of the designs people have done; they are amazingly varied. I've seen dowels, window bracing, allthread, 2x4's, cleating, etc.
2) Holes are good in bracing to reduce the volume it takes up; just don't compromise the function of the brace. A hole sized to the port is a great way to support it inside the enclosure.
3)You are correct about the spacing from the walls with the port opening. From what I understand, the farther away you are from a wall, the better.
4)For ported I think polyfil is best, you can get polyfil pillows or batting at Walmart for cheap and people have said they work great. I've seen people use fiberglass insulation for ported and have always wondered if they are just blowing tons of it out the port from the turbulence. Personally I'd rather have poly fibers being blown around than glass fibers.

Looking forward to seeing your build!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ok guys, I followed the tutorial but have obviously missed something, here is the graph and I've got three pictures showing the three tabs that I've adjusted. I double checked my numbers and calculated numbers and everything lines up for the driver.

vents tab

box tab

signal tab
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I'll guess the Vas is wrong in your driver file, it should be liters, not cu.ft.
That's just a conversion, I can click on the cubic feet and it will convert amongst a few different measurements including liters which was 4851.2 so I don't know how it would affect my graph. When I change it to liters the graph remains the same. :dontknow:
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
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