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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anyone have suggestions on build plans for bookshelves that have very decent SPL for their size? I already have a sub (with more on the way). I'm more interested in SPL than SQ. It would be nice to keep the price around $300 or less per speaker.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Once Audio Karma accepts me, I will view the information. Thanks for the heads up as I have not heard of these yet.

For others thinking about responding, I think it would be helpful if I state my intended purpose for these speakers. I sometimes take a system to different events ranging from college football tailgating parties to family members/friends get-togethers at locally rented venues. I sometimes get asked to do this because I have a large and diverse music collection but mostly, I enjoy doing it.

Instead of taking the chance of damaging my Klipsch's, I would like to build a set (or more) of speakers that would fit the bill of filling a decent sized venue. I guess you could say they double as DJ speakers if necessary but they don't have to built specifically for this purpose. If they get me 75% the way there then I'm happy. I am also planning a portable sub build right now so deep bass would not be a concern.
 

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Look for builds that use pro drivers. They're harder to find, but they're designed for power handling and SPL over SQ.
Frank
 

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You want them for outdoor sound? You know, sometimes for the sale prices you can find you just can't do better than buying factory made...



Kustom PA cabinet, on sale for $179 each. Click image above for more info.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Wow, thanks for the great suggestions. One can go from mild to wild with some of those. I had seen the Blue Wonders in the past. They look impressive. Unfortunately, those babies would be out of my price range. The PA speakers look like great deals for the price. My issue (if you can call it that) is that I would like to have some of these speakers so I can build them and use them. Even if I have to spend a bit more money to build them, that would give me the most satisfaction.

As fun as the DIY is getting and as much fun as I've had in the past supplying music for family and friends, I am considering taking an official dive into the world of event DJing. This would actually give me somewhat of an excuse for the hobby. There are a number of winter bridal planning events coming up so I need to figure out the go/no-go soon. My main issue is that I own a boat (with a solid system) that we use a lot in the summer so this would run smack in the face of DJing summer weddings.

Ahhh, we'll see. My costs would only keep going up because I would want a Mac book to run all my digital songs on...there's another grand! Hey, it would be for a business so I could at least write it off!
 

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For DIY'ing, one of the best sources for a wide variety of pro sound drivers is US Speaker or, of course, Parts Express.
 

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At the risk of over-simplifying a more complex problem: wouldn't the equasion for "high efficiency bookshelf" basically be "high efficiency driver (full-range to avoid crossover loss) combined with a large enclosure (likely ported) to provide as little resistance as possible"?
 

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At the risk of over-simplifying a more complex problem: wouldn't the equasion for "high efficiency bookshelf" basically be "high efficiency driver (full-range to avoid crossover loss) combined with a large enclosure (likely ported) to provide as little resistance as possible"?
what is "crossover loss"? The 1/5th of an ohm resistance from an inductor?
 

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Actually: I was thinking that since not all drivers are equally efficient at a given range, that there had to be equalization in the crossover to "driver match". Since that cannot introduce new power (increase the power going to the less effcient driver), it must reduce power to the more efficient by converting it to heat: hence "loss".

But I've not built a crossover: perhaps I'm missing some basic physics. How do you prevent one driver from being unequal to another without selective reduction in the power flowing to it?
 

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Actually: I was thinking that since not all drivers are equally efficient at a given range, that there had to be equalization in the crossover to "driver match". Since that cannot introduce new power (increase the power going to the less effcient driver), it must reduce power to the more efficient by converting it to heat: hence "loss".

But I've not built a crossover: perhaps I'm missing some basic physics. How do you prevent one driver from being unequal to another without selective reduction in the power flowing to it?
Tweeters are generally padded down because they are inherantly more efficient than woofers. There are some efficient full range drivers, but they have rediculously low xmax and therefore cancel out any gains obtained from the efficiency gains.
Multi-driver is the way to go if youre looking for SPL.

The bigger the better also, but if you're using a sub you can sacrifice extension for efficiency...
 

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Tweeters are generally padded down because they are inherantly more efficient than woofers. There are some efficient full range drivers, but they have rediculously low xmax and therefore cancel out any gains obtained from the efficiency gains.
Multi-driver is the way to go if youre looking for SPL.

The bigger the better also, but if you're using a sub you can sacrifice extension for efficiency...
Agreed. I know of no full range driver except maybe the Infinity MRS that is capable of high volume. Full rangers are more suited to surrounds IMO. You need less SPL in that application.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Well, after reading all this discussion I ended up taking another look at the PE Blue Wonders build. I've decided I can split the subs out so they can occupy their own enclosure. The PE tech suggested I just build the crossovers as listed and mount them with the tweeter and mid. Then, I can run the sub crossover out the back of the monitors to the subs on the floor. This would work nice because if I just wanted to use the small satellites, I wouldn't have to lug the subs around. Also, weight wouldn't be an issue if I wanted to use some stands. Lastly, the PE tech said I could substitute these subs for the higher priced subs listed in the build to save a few bucks. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=290-427
 
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