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Discussion Starter #1
I will be running a Fi Audio SSD12" dual 2 Ohm base model with no extra options. An EP2500 will power it with a Reckhorn B1 for bass managment. All fed by and Onkyo TX-SR805.

The box will be a 23"X23"X23" cube yielding 5.75cu'. The EP2500 and the B1 will have their own enclosure on top of the speaker enclosure and flush out both pieces with the face of the entire box.

The port is a 3"X8"X58" slot port which will exit the side of the box, or if it will fit just under the amp box on top. The port displaces 1.08cu'

Subwoofer will be inverted, firing up into the box from the bottom. The speaker is 6" tall, so I figure I make the legs 8-9 inches tall. Base plate for the enclosure will be 25" squared and have a nice edge routered all the way around, and should provide a nice stable foot print and weight distribution.


Final volume will be 4.67cu', which will give me .17 to play with for bracing. Modeled volume was 4.5cu' tuned to 18hz.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I started the port tonight. 1/2" MDF. over 3/4", this saves me about and inch or so lenght on the port.


Poor mans third and forth hands:

Routered the edges for the inside walls:

This gives you an idea of the port design. 58" total length:


Tomorrow, I will make the 1/4 round inside edges and glue them in to smooth out the 90 degree bends in the port.
 

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Started the 23" cube and attached the port to the front panel. Wont be back next week to work on it until friday.
 

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Holy smokes, that is one complicated build!

I just put a maelstrom in a 21.5" cube, powered the same way, I would love to be able to play side by side. WAF came into play here with my choice, I would have gone 24".

So what pointed you to this choice in build? Looks great!

Almost looks like a TL design.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I put the rest of the cube together and cut out the speaker hole and installed the port.


Next I added the amp rack on top. The seam between the cube and the rack is no big deal because I am going to skin the entire box in 1/2" cabinet grade ply and stain it all.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Holy smokes, that is one complicated build!

I just put a maelstrom in a 21.5" cube, powered the same way, I would love to be able to play side by side. WAF came into play here with my choice, I would have gone 24".

So what pointed you to this choice in build? Looks great!

Almost looks like a TL design.
Yeah the port took a bit of thinking. so far so good, and the basic box is done. just have to come up with ideas for the feet and skin it in nice ply. I looked for the speaker first, and the SSD 12 was in my price range and modeled out nicely for the over all size of the box I wanted to do.
 

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The last few days I have glued the popular ply on the box. One more side to go and I can start routering.

I need ideas for the legs now. I think some steel 3" dia conduit will work. I think if i get a 3' hole saw and cut out the half inch ply layer, I can slip the pipe into that and glue the out of it, and it will rest on the 3/4" mdf layer. The my idea for the base plate is 2 layers of 3/4' popular and do the same thing. it will support the weight no problem, but you can pick up or move the box by the legs.

The other idea is rip a 4x4 down to 3x3" and rip 4" strips of popular and make a 4X4" popular square leg. both will require some work.
 

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So you are mounting the amp in the box? That's different. Keep up with the updates. I want to see how this turns out.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well I covered the entire box. I am using 3" PVC pipe for the 4 legs, so I cut the 1/2" layer out with a 3-1/2" hole saw and only went as deep as the surface of the 3/4" MDF. So I can insert and glue the legs in and mdf will support the weight. I added a layer of 3/4" mdf again beacue it didnt look like it would hold the legs very well. with only the 1/2" glue area.

I ripped some select pine into 1-1/2' pieces. Then routered a nice edge and ripped them again thinner to what you see here. I know I could have gotten trim but i like the extra effort and reward in doing it my self.



I am wrapping all side of the corners, except the very bottom surface, so i had to rip a 45 dont the edge. So here comes the hard part... Trimming out the corners. It is much likeplaying a game of 9-ball pool... each cut has to be perfect or 3-4 miters later your screwed. I worked with my fathers remodeling company for years, and can trim a window in my sleep, and can lay crown... this is MUCH harder and way more precise. And to make it that much easier on myself, I dont want nail holes so it is all clamped and glued. Here is ONE piece sofar.

 

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More trim... I kinda wish I shot it with the 18ga pasload trim gun, but I didnt want any nail holes and putty so it is clamp and glue! Gorilla glue is the nutts. It expands a little bit and hold like no other wood glue out there. Set time is about 4 hours I found. in about an hour or so it tacks up and expands about 80% of its way out. You could chance it and unclamp it, but the other 20% of expansion might open up the miters.

Almost done.


here is a quick sand of the miter. I have to fill the seem a little bit but once it is stained you will see a perfect edge. So far they are nice and tight where they need to be.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Finish sanded the trim. The leading edge disapears right in front of your eyes as you sand it. I am very happy with how the trim came out.


Applied ZAR rosewood stain, and one coat of Minwax poly. Waiting for it to dry right now. I want to do 3 coats or so.

 

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Discussion Starter #17
4 coats of poly are on, and dried for a few days. i have to have someone help me flip it over so i can make the base.

inside of the port will be sprayed flat black.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I filled and leveled off the bottom surface with the trim with body filler. Then mounted the for 10" long 3" dia legs. The legs are just PVC pipe. I took a 3-1/4" hole saw (what ever the outside dia was not sure off the top of my head) and drilled the last 2 layers of the baffel board out, the last 3/4" mdf and the 1/2" poplar. That left me with the origional 3/4" layer of mdf to support most of the weight. Then glued the pipe in. Glue was on the sides of the hole and the bottom, so that it would tie all the layers together, then i dumped some glue inside the pipe and smeared it around with a wooden dowle for what ever reason! The whole saw left the fit nice and tight, so as i knocked the legs square it held perfectly.




I just sanded the legs with 320 grit and cleaned them with Prepsal. Prepsal is a great plastic cleaner and primer promoter. I sprayed a good coat of regular primer on the legs, and a heavy coat of high build primer/filler on the baffel and the body work I did around the edges. Ill come back to it in a few hours and final sand that and shoot it with silver, and clear coat. I am using PPG automotive silver metal flake base coat, and PPG clear. 2004 ford ranger silver to be exact. Since I have some left from a bumper i shot a few weeks ago.
 
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