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Building Custom Subwoofers!!!!

14466 Views 61 Replies 11 Participants Last post by  derekpittx
i am thinking of building a custom subwoofer using a mmats pro audio 12" subwoofer. It is called the procast or p3.0...

It is dual 4 ohm voice coil. I am trying to sell them but not having any luck so i was thinking of building boxes for them.

i Don't know what i should use for amplifiers... Any suggestions would be great. 500watts and up can be handled by these beasts.. here are the specs.. If i sell these i'm looking at a sunfire sub or a klipsch rw-12d

P3.0 12

Voice Coil (Ohms) 2 x 4
Fs (Hz.) 26
Vas (Liters) 84.0
Qts . .18
SPL (1W/1M) 92db
Power (Wrms) 750
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great.. thanks, makes me feel a little better. That is what i figured too.. Now is the amp you recommended and the high-pass filter, good quality.. is it something you use in your home or would you use? sorry to bombard the questions at you. the fiance only wants me to do it once and i want to make sure im getting good equipment..
The Behringer EP amps are considered best bang for the buck in HT amps, lots of people are using them. The Reckhorn will do the job for this application.
how do you feel about the epx models? also what cables should i need to go from the reciever to the amp and amp to subs? thanks
1/4 inch or XLR. Whichever you like.
The EPX 2000 would be good, it would give you a little more headroom. Connection wise you'll need a RCA cable from the receiver to the Reckhorn and a RCA to 1/4" cable from the Reckhorn to the amp.
i just purchased a 2 rca to 1/4 by hosa, and a monster cable rca. i'm hoping to build the boxes this week. I am looking at a 18x18x18 box. still trying to figure how i'm going to get 33 inches of port out of a small box but i will.. its going to be a "L" shaped port. will probably fire forward on the bottom of the box..
Make sure you round over any corners or bends in the port to ensure smooth air flow. Post some build pics if possible.
yeah i round them anyways, built alot of ported boxes. i will post some when i get going...
hey mike. i need to get a double ended rca to 1/4 for the amp don't i? in order to use both channels..
I don't think you need a Y adaptor, the amp only uses one channel when in bridged mode as far as I know.
i know in car audio amps. both channels are used in the bridge mode.. i looked at the back of the amp and it showed + and - hooked to the positive channels on the amp...
hey mike.. either a ep 2500 or a ep2000.. Which should i get..
The 2000 would be enough for these subs but the 2500 could also be used for a future project. It's up to you.
7
hey here is a update of the boxes as of an hour ago.. screwed 2 inches on center, and glued. should have the face done tomorrow night.. Also there is a couple pics of what the subs look like..

the sub will be front firing along with the port. i'll upload pics tomorrow or the next day..

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Procast - I saw another post of yours and wanted to clarify something.

An EP2500/4000 won't overpower or damage your subs (unless you run it at excessive levels). It'll have power in reserve and handle peaks well - but you actually want to overbuy wattage - rather than underbuy.

You're more likely to have clipping and higher levels of distortion - if you buy a small amp, and then power speakers that have a higher wattage than the amp (and run the small amp at high gain).

A higher wattage amp just means you adjust the gain lower to get the desired output.
Zeitgeist said:
Procast - I saw another post of yours and wanted to clarify something.

An EP2500/4000 won't overpower or damage your subs (unless you run it at excessive levels). It'll have power in reserve and handle peaks well - but you actually want to overbuy wattage - rather than underbuy.

You're more likely to have clipping and higher levels of distortion - if you buy a small amp, and then power speakers that have a higher wattage than the amp (and run the small amp at high gain).

A higher wattage amp just means you adjust the gain lower to get the desired output.
Very true. I should of realized that too
ProCast12's said:
Very true. I should of realized that too
Mike what do you think about a tube port made of pvc... I prefer the square but would like your opinion and could you help me get the specs for a tube port if you think I should go that route.. I want to finish these monday. Thanks jon
It would have to be a 4" flared port like Parts Express sells, the air speed is high. The port would need to be 22.5" long.
Mike P. said:
It would have to be a 4" flared port like Parts Express sells, the air speed is high. The port would need to be 22.5" long.
Should I stick with building a slotted port or do the tube port.
Personally I'd go with the slot port, it will have a lower air speed.
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