The veneer is the 2ply, 10 mil Santos Rosewood from Tapeease.com, ordered with a color variation. I carefully picked ou the sections of the veneer so that matched vertically on the box before cutting them out. That's how I got the stripe to line up vertically up the front, for example. This is not book matched or special order veneer. I prepared the mdf by sanding and filling as need be to make a good flat surface and then applied a coat of Zinser sanding sealer (dewaxed shellac) to seal the surface a bit. Then sanded a bit with 240grit before applying standard contact cement for an adhesive, I believe it was one coat on the veneer and two to the mdf. I used wax paper in 2-3 pieces as a separator so the veneer could be moved and shifted into place (the stripe was aligned properly and therewas a little overlap along all sides). Then I removed the wax paper at one end to stick the veneer in place and worked from that end with a J roller to apply the veneer, removing wax paper as I went. Then I trimmed the veneer back with a router and flush trim bit and sanded a little as needed for a perfect match at the corners. Then the veneer was carefully sanded with 240-400-600 grit to prepare it for further finish.Yeah, those look awesome. Please describe the veneering and finishing process. I'd love to try the high gloss look with similar veneer.
For the veneer finish, I started with a coat of tung oil, because it sealed the grain, but didn't darken is as much as other materials. After that came about 4 layers of the Zinser Sanding sealer, sanded smooth with 240-400 grit sandpaper. Santos Rosewood is an oily wood, so it is a bit of a chore to seal in the oil. After that, I applied 2-4 coats of Old Master Poly with a painting pad. To get the flat smooth finish, I applied relatively thick coats, leaving the surface sitting horizontal for a couple hours after each application so it would dry flat, with not pad marks, as if it was sprayed on. I roughed up the surface between coats with either 600grit or super fine synthetic steel wool.
For the gloss black finish, I started by sanding the mdf as smooth as I could get it, especially the edges, with 120-240 grit. Then I applied a few coats of Zinser Sanding sealer to help seal the mdf, sanding in between, followed by several coats of Rustoleum professional primer, again lightly sanding in between. After a thourough dry time, next came the gloss black enamel Rustoleum Professional coats, 4-6 total, with 2 light coats on each application, allowing the paint to dry between one set of light coats and the next set. I aso sandded enough to rough the surface in between the pairs of light coats. You have to let everything dry by 3-4 times what the manufacturer suggests between major coats, in my experience, except where they are referring to the short time window between short light recoats. Once you are beyond the initial light recoat window, usually after about an hour, you have to let the paint dry a good 4-6 days, in my expereince, otherwise you can get checking in the paint with the next coat. I generally used the super fine synthetic steel wool pads to rough the surface between these coats. In some cases, I added a Rustoleum clear enamel over the gloss black to protect it, however, I found this last clear coat tended to add some roughness to the finish that the straight gloss black did not have, so I stopped doing that. All these coats take a long time to completely dry. I can tell you that as much as 2 weeks after the last coat, I could still get impressions in the paint if I set it down on something with a texture or put too much pressure on it.
The whole finishing process probably stretched out over 6-8 weeks!
I hope this all makes sense, because I'm too lazy to proof read this all over again.