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Discussion Starter #1
I have a JL Audio 10 inch W3V2 subwoofer driver and I was thinking of building my own subwoofer to add to my home audio system. I know this is a car subwoofer but can it also be used to build a sub for home use? I was thinking of building a small sealed or ported subwoofer using this driver but I'm not sure if a car sub will work or not.
 

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You know, I was wondering the same thing about the W7's. Don't know what the differences are between the W7 for a car audio and a JL Audio Fathom sub, but I'm sure there are differences. I sure would like to see the car and home sub side by side. Either way, JL makes a solid driver.
 

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Looks like it would work slightly better in a vented box, but could go either way. 2 ohms is pretty low impedance, so pick a capable amp. Should make a decent small sub.
G'luck,
Tom
 

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If it should work I guess I'll try it out and see how it turns out. I plan on using a Bash 300W amp so I think that should be enough power.
 

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I think the main difference in general between a "car" sub and a "home" sub is that the car subs work better in smaller boxes and roll off higher, since in-car boost levels out the roll-off. The W3V2 models well in about a 1 cubic foot sealed or vented cab tuned to 30hz; either is pretty flat for home use.
Of course, other designs also work, but don't get too large on the box.

Tom
 

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I was considering putting my old 10w3 D2 (original version) in a 1.4cuft sealed box but my room is 7000cuft so there was really no point until I'm in need of a new bed room sub. I think that was the biggest box i modeled that would still tolerate the 250watt rating without cone over travel. I think the original and the V2 had similar specs.
 

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I have a JL Audio 10 inch W3V2 subwoofer driver and I was thinking of building my own subwoofer to add to my home audio system. I know this is a car subwoofer but can it also be used to build a sub for home use? I was thinking of building a small sealed or ported subwoofer using this driver but I'm not sure if a car sub will work or not.
I ran a pair of JL 13W7s in a couple sealed boxes with very good results.
 

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A car sub can do fine in the home environment. The big difference is that you will need to use a box alignment other than what the manufacturer suggests for car use. I would NOT recommend using a car sub in a car enclosure, if you want good results you'll need to put it in a properly modelled box for the best results. Some vented car subs often are tuned to boom on purpose, and roll off too soon for home use. Similar for sealed.

If you need help modelling just ask.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I've been trying to figure out how to design a box that would work well with this driver. Its going to be used in a small bedroom for music only so I would prefer to make a small enclosure for it if possible. A sealed box would be much easier for me to do but I think I can also do vented if that would be better. I'll probably end up using a Bash 300 amp with it and I think it should be able to handle 4 ohms ok or I can also wire up the two voice coils for 8 ohms. The hardest part for me I think is coming up with a box design. Once I have all the dimensions I should be able to cut up the wood and assemble it.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I was hoping to build a small box but it looks like a ported box would be better but its also a lot bigger. I'm not sure how it would sound with a sealed box according to that graph but it can't be that bad right?
 

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I have two of the original 10W3s I've been messing with for a while. Pretty old!

The surround is kinda dry rotted on them and the worse of the two completely separated from the cone a couple days ago. :(
 

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The 10w3 is known for being an outstanding sounding sub. It would do quite well I am sure. I just completed doing the same thing but using an Alpine E sub. Most sub manufacturers suggest sealed boxes go for a higher Q, .9-1.0. If you want to be "audiophile" .707 is the supposidly the perfect number. I am now running the 10" Alpine E in a VERY solid sealed enclosure being pushed by a RBH SA200 amplifier and it sounds fantastic. Absolutely blows away my $700 Canton sub I had, really!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I looked at the graph for the sealed box and how it rolls off more compared to the vented box that it wouldn't sound as good. But if you guys say it sounds good then I'm going to go ahead and build a sealed box for it. It can't sound any worse than the 8" Polk Audio PSW111 sub I'm using now. I think if I make a 16x16x18 inch box it should be close enough to 2 cubic feet. It sounded really good with a sealed box in my car so hopefully it will sound just as good once I'm done with this project.
 

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The lines on the graph are SPL = volume. The sealed box won't be as loud down low. I had an IDQ 12 inch (very similar to the JL W3) in a vented box (1.6ft tuned to 28hz) and it sounded absolutely incredible. Only off 50 watts too!
 

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Just finished this new baffle earlier this afternoon. This is a 10w3 (original, not V2) with dual 2ohm coils, wired in series, in a 1.1 cuft vb sealed box. Sounds good, but I have way too much room for this. It will be great in the office or bedroom.





Still need to add some more hardware, smooth out the cut out and finish the baffle.
 

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Don't be too concerned about the response curve of the sealed box. Your room will add some boost to the lower end of the response curve and it will flatten out some. In some rooms up to 6dbs can be added to the low end of the response curve.
A sealed box is easy to build and can usually be smaller. The negative is the sealed box uses more power to achieve the same spl as a ported box.
I Like sealed but have built both types.
 
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