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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone,
Im from Canada, and I am looking for do some DIY subs and speakers.
Can anyone fill me in on a list of Canadian suppliers for subs speakers crossovers and plate amplifiers.
I appreciate any help.
 

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Thanks guys I just recieved my CSS Bash 500 plate amp, and my subduction 12" subwoofer.

Its going to be made for the Living Room/Kitchen (Its an open design with a half wall seperating the kitchen and living room). Its about 20 ft by 10 feet. But I dont expect to fill the whole room with deafing bass.
Im going to do a bunch of reading cause after looking at the plate amp and its instructions I realize im pretty much hooped on the whole electrical thing. Thank goodness Im pretty decent at wood working.

Thanks again guys I appreciate it.
 

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Not yet I am very new to this. I did build a couple subwoofer boxes for my car over a decade ago. Thats all the knowledge I have. The instructions on that one were pretty simple. I see now how in depth this stuff is.
I was wanting to get some rumble from it when I watch movies and play video games but I wouldnt mind it to retain a bit of punch for music. I realize that I have a pretty large room to fill as well. Eventually I will be finishing the basement where I plan on builing a HT Room, but for now I just want a sub for the everyday tv room. The TV you watch CSI on and eat supper.
So im not sure what tuning exactly I am looking for, does 22-25 HZ sound right.

Im just starting to play with win isd right now. And all I can say is my learning curve is steep!
:D
 

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Well I have been playing around with win isd for a week now, and I have been cruising the threads. I think I might have been getting in over my head for the design and using win isd. Im not sure exactly what I should be plugging in to the program and what I should be looking for.

Some things for example are 1.eq/filter? What do those options mean? What do I have if any
2. Signal input power? Thats what my amps power rating is right?
3. series resistance? Not sure what I should be putting in here. I remember back to car stereo amps I bridged mine from 8ohm to 4. Why is the default at 0.1?

I also have been looking at the amp instructions given, and I am confused at to what bass boost is. Is that what you were refering to when you say the rumble filter needs to be changed to 18hz. And if its tuned to 21 hz why would the rumble be set at 18?

I am sorry if I am really far behind all of this, I am still lurking the threads looking for those other beginners like me to learn from.

Thanks for all the help so far.
 

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1. EQ/filter is to add what effect any EQ (boost) or filter (high pass filter, also known as a rumble filter) the amp you are using has. The Bash 500 has various amounts of boost and HPF (high pass filter) combinations. The trick is to find the best combination of boost and HPF for your application.

2. Yes.

3. Series resistance under the signal tab does is not referring to the the wiring of the voice coils. From the help files:

Series resistance is source resistance seen by the driver. This includes your amplifier's output impedance, crossover coils, connectors, interconnect wires. Raising this value will effectively rise the Qes. Default value is 0.1 ohms, which is reasonable default.

Bass boost is more power applied to a frequency or range of frequencies.

The default HPF is set at 30 hz. Your application needs a HPF at 18 hz. Even though the tuning frequency is 21 hz, there is usable output below that frequency that the sub can produce and still be within its Xmax (cone excursion) limits.

Below is the cone excursion graph of the SD12. The model is 4 cu.ft. tuned to 21 hz. The filter applied is taken from the boost tables that came with the amp.The HPF is at 18.7 hz and 1 db of boost is applied at 27.5 hz, which is the center frequency of 25 - 30 hz as shown in the "1dB of Bass Boost" table. With these applied and 500 watts input power the cone excursion is within its limits as shown in the graph.

SD12 EQ.JPG

This would be the projected SPL.

SD12 SPL.JPG


Once you get familiar with the above we'll tackle the porting so you can understand that aspect as well.
 

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ok mike im starting to follow you. I looked at the instructions given with the amp. THere are a bunch of options for the bass boost settings. 1dB to 6dB are the options. I think if i am looking at it correctly the cone excursion is too much if set over 1dB of bass boost. Is this true? Also SPL really peaks the higher dB of bass boost I set in the EQ. How do you determine what is a good SPL graph?

Is the increase in db of bass boost just increasing the power to the sub at certain frequencies?

While trying to wrap my head around the technical aspects of things I have been looking at a couple of other builds that use the same sub and or amp. I was thinking I could use your advice about the slotted port and maybe double the sub as a end table. I can easily do 4ft3 (probably closer to 6ft3 outside cause of bracing and porting). Do people do this? Or is that a bad idea?

Also can a plate amp be cut into and mounted on the side of the box, or would the air movement and vibs damage the amp. This bash amp isnt sealed in the back.

Thanks again for all your help mike. I appreciate it!
 

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I think if i am looking at it correctly the cone excursion is too much if set over 1dB of bass boost. Is this true?
Yes, if running the amp at full power.
Is the increase in db of bass boost just increasing the power to the sub at certain frequencies?
Yes.

You can build a sub anyway you want. An end table with a slot port is fine.

The Bash amps are designed to be mounted on the sub. Although they don't have a back cover, all the controls are sealed to prevent air leaks. You can also build a separate box for the amp and place it somewhere else, whatever works best for you.
 
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