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I have a very dry basement since digging it out and putting in a drainage system. My question is do I need to put anything under the carpet padding cause I see here some put down plastic as a vapor barrier im guessing.

 

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Thanks Bryan, I do have the hieght availabilty but if I don't need it I will put the money towards the Roxal safe and sound insulation in the ceiling. I have been really slow on this project but trying to think out all possabilities before spending any money. I do have a lot of pics from digging out the basement with 5gallon buckets totalling 90 yards of dirt!

 

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Wow, I thought using the Roxal would be worth it for sound deadening. The ceiling I have to use is a drop ceiling due to the things in the rafters that can't be buried. Is there any good products for this kind of setup? I did insulate all the walls even the inside walls. It does sound not so bad even without having the carpet down yet. My thinking is when the furniture and other items are in place the room will be quiet.

 

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From an isolation standpoint, you're limited using drop tiles. The Roxul will help a little. From the standpoint of allowing the ceiling to be a large broadband bass absorber, it won't change much.

Bryan

I am going to install R19 above the tiles for some piece of mind that I treid to do somthing and I'm sure would be cheaper and maybe as effective as the Roxal in this case? If so you just saved me a lot of money! I would have liked to drywall the ceiling but it would be against code for my situation. I do have some ideas with the ceiling like putting in some fiber optics as a night time effect. I am trying to make the best of what I have and this site is great for me as a newbe to get ideas from.:sn:

 

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If you are putting in just carpet, it should be fine. However, some moisture will wick through the concrete. But carpet breathes, so it should not be a problem. Hardwoods or laminates are another story, though.

Also, if you haven't framed yet, make sure the bottom plate is pressure treated (the part that meets the concrete. Even with the basement being dry, the wood can absorb and hold moisture and slowly rot. Probably won't be a problem, but it would be a major pain if it did.

Good luck.

Thanks for the heads up, yes I did put down P.T for the bottom plate and also used PL premium glue.
There was one inside partition wall about six feet long were I did use regular stud for the sill put the floor is really dry. I had some card board boxes in place for over a year and when moved they were still dry.

 

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You should be fine. I just moved to a house with an unfinished basement. We think it's dry, but are holding off for a year before we finish it just to be sure. I know too many people who have re-done their basements due to surprise floods and inadequate drainage. Sounds like you are all set though.

And remember, pics, pics pics!

Funny you should say that, when I bought my house everything from my other house that was in the attic and basement was put into my existing house which was built in 1913 and we just had hurricane floyd and it dumped 15 inches of rain and man my basement was under water so I knew I had to do somthing so I dug it out and fixed it.

 

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Like I said, from a purely isolation standpoint, the Roxul will do a little bit better. From an in-room performance standpoint, not much - unless you can fill the whole cavity above the drop with std insulation rather than just say 4" of Roxul.

Bryan

I am going to fill between the joist with R19 and again with R13 going the other dirrection above the drop ceiling in hopes that it will dampen some of the highs and noise from going upstaires. I also will be making some wall mounted noise traps.

 

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I had another idea may seem dumb but I am trying my best with what I have in abundance of,that is carpet pading. I could cut them into strips and sandwich them between the floor joist with drywall. That would be first then install the insulation as talked about. I am sure nobody has done this due to better funds.:huh:

 

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Good thought but it really won't do anything for absorption or for isolation. Just not the right material.

Bryan

Dam ! foiled againonder:. I am going to try it anyways and let you know if there's any difference.
Instead of throwing it out I will waste my time I guess.lol

 

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Which are you trying to accomplish? Isolation? If so, one easy and relatively inexpensive way to go is to simply cut drywall and glue it to the underside of the subfloor above. That will increase the mass and reduce the transmission while only reducing the cavity depth for insulation by 1/2"

Bryan

I am trying to deaden the room a bit and also stop sound from passing both ways through the floor.
This is not one of the high tech builds and is my first time at it. My point is my twin girls jumping around upstairs sound like they are on my head when I am working in the basement so figuring what I can do before the ceiling goes in. Thanks again for the replies.

 

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please explain as I have never heard of this before ???

Well if you have electrical junction boxes and shut off valves for gas and water you must either make access doors which to me would look ugly and be in too many places. Another thing is my floor joist are very old and are not exactly level across. I know it seems to be making excusses but I don't think it's worth the it. One more thing if I ever need to run anything in the future I will be screwed due to the sheetrock ceiling. Now I am starting to think Hmmm is it worth it????:spend::spend::spend:

 

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Well it's either you want to soundproof or not I guess ... you can shim the ceiling flat using whisper clips and hat channel ... access doors can be covered up with fabric frames and conduit can be run "in case" you forgot something

Started another thread due to this one getting off topic. I have a lot of this metal channel that is shaped into a hat. I guess that what your saying,just have to level it off with shims and drywall.

 

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Thanks for that detailed reply. I will put down 6mill plastic under the padding. Definetly makes sence to do so, as far the rest I am good to go in the framing with PT as the sill around the basement.

 

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Here is another option, Install foam insulation tongue and groove type onto the floor tape all seems. Then install on top of that tongue and groove 3/4 ply wood screw down with tapcon concrete screws then carpet padding then carpet. This method is exspensive and you do loose some headroom in the process.:spend: