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Discussion Starter #1
I would like to build something easy (think flat pack or sonotube) to use on the lfe channel with my jtr captivator (if I get the woofer...). I am going to get some pro-10's and don't want to push them to their max so would prefer to cross at 100. the cap is best below 80...

I figure with the antimode 8033s I can use the .1 channel and run both subs full range but really let them so what they do best and roll off naturally where the other picks up. I am open to using an f-mod on the lesser sub(s)

Ideally I'd like matching subs and use them as stands for my pro-10's then I can cross as high as 120 and not really worry (well maybe the jts cap won't like that).

Height id limited to around 20-24ish width around the same. Could go bigger if it is just one sub but a large sonotube usn't going to work (small shorter/less ugly one is an option)

Budget would need to be around 400-500 for the whole thing with amp...

Do I have any hope?
 

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Take it a step further. Pick up a miniDSP or DCX, a cheap separates amp if you don't already have one to run your mains off of, and seal up the SHO-10 (with some foam and duct tape, I guess) as vents make integration diffucult, and just run the bass bins high enough to blend to the sealed rolloff of the SHO-10s, 2nd order Linkwitz Riley near 170-200hz. - IE Bi-Amped system. The blend from the SHO-10 to the bass bins will be much more seamless this way, and then you can just cross the JTR captivator around 60-70hz.

One of these - http://www.minidsp.com/products/minidsp-in-a-box/minidsp-2x4 as a manual crossover, although it can also be used as an EQ with REW.
Two of these or better yet, if you can squeeze it in, these.

and the rest of money goes to amps/enclosure. I think it's doable within your budget. If you've already got separates amps for your mains, then it's most DEFINITELY doable.

Actually, since the efficiencies are so close and so high, you could do this passively (without adding amps) with some steel laminate core inductors and large poly caps, but to hit the target curves correctly you would need to do some impedance measurements at the very least.

Modeled below is a 4 cu ft "box" plus 6.5 inch diameter x 12 inch long port fed 200 watts (15A cone excursion does not exceed 5.5 mm above 32hz, and if you run these as small mated to the JTR there will be further improvements. The SHO-10 woofer should also not exceed its excursion limits.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thats a good idea but I just don't know if it's in the works for me right now - First off -

Did I miss what woofer you are talking about here?

Here's why active sort of bums me out/concernes me:
I got a pioneer sc-25 to see what the amps sound like
I snap purchased an antimode 8033s and would like to use both channels if possible.
The mini dsp confuses me... I'm not fully convinced I could build it and also it looks like it doesn't work with pro amps
Finally - Budget... Mini dsp and amps alone will be over my budget even if I get cheapos like xls202's

I guess I could use a channel of the anti-mode to the lower side of the active system but the budget thing just will kill it... I could always build it on the LFE channel then add the active part later...?
 

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Did I miss what woofer you are talking about here?
The Eminence Kappa 15LFA that I linked to in my other post, and the less expensive dayton PA380 would work too.

The Eminence Delta 10B that is in the above picture represents the woofer in the SHO-10. I don't recall if that is the exact woofer but it should be very close so i used it to show the blend between the two drivers.

Neither of the woofers I recommended is a particularily high excursion woofer, so don't expect a world of bottom end, but what you will get is tons of output and high sensitivity. Since they are 15 inch woofers, they still move a good bit of air with minimal movement, and can definitely handle about 180 watts and 165 watts above tuning respectively. While that isn't a lot of "power", the high sensitivity means that output at these power levels will be very high.

In the model the dayton had less output at most frequencies and higher voice coil inductance (which means it might have more driver distortion at higher frequencies, especially at higher output levels) but it is a good ~$60 cheaper each. This model is shown below, with 100 watts each. If you want to use a bigger amp I would recommend having an infrasonic filter around 35hz. Even with a 100 watt amp, I would recommend a 2nd order high pass filter at 30hz. The advantage of making this an active speaker would be that these woofers aren't asked to go this low.

The mini dsp confuses me... I'm not fully convinced I could build it and also it looks like it doesn't work with pro amps
The miniDSP has 2.0V of output. It will work with most pro amps. There are balanced and unbalanced versions. It also comes in "complete" versions with no assembly required.

I guess I could use a channel of the anti-mode to the lower side of the active system but the budget thing just will kill it... I could always build it on the LFE channel then add the active part later...?
Yes, you could start with this and eventually shift to making it active. I think the active version would have a significantly more seamless integration to it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Wow!

Everyone here is so good with all this stuff, I am just learning...

Well if I ever sell my energy speakers I am getting PRO-10 not sho. pro is cheaper and supposedly more laid back sound.

When you say the size on these enclosures what kind of outside size would I be looking at?

Would a reasonable size sonotube be an option?

The less I do in the d-I-y the better so sonotube would take care of a couple of the sides on the enclosure.
 

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Well if I ever sell my energy speakers I am getting PRO-10 not sho. pro is cheaper and supposedly more laid back sound.
Sorry, I made an error. Anyways the woofer used in the Pro-10 is not the Eminence, but a cheaper sellenium unit, this one. I would still recommend sealing it up and going active, though. My target crossover frequency would be about 245hz 2nd order L/R though, for this driver. The eminence 15 should have no trouble working up this high. The dayton may require 4th order slopes because it may have some inductance basedf issues up this high.

When you say the size on these enclosures what kind of outside size would I be looking at?
For a box speaker using 3/4 inch MDF with some internal bracing, I would estimate somewhere like a 25 x 18 x 23 inch external dimensions. Of course you could shift the dimensions around a bit.

Would a reasonable size sonotube be an option?
A sonotube using these woofers would be something like 20 inch internal diameter by 26.7 inches tall. It would have a 6.5 inch by ~12 inch flared vent. It would be raised about 4 inches off the floor plate in order to give the driver clearance. Total height would be about 32 inches tall.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
This is great.

If it's not too much to ask please keep this thread in mind.

I am going to do some research and thinking then would like to revisit this thread with more questions2
 
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