I have the 1124 but would have bought the MiniDSP if it were available at the time. That said, I have to be careful that I don't clip the input on it with my receiver. It's also got a push button toggle between -10dB and +4dB.Tried that and it only bumped output a few DBs across the spectrum, but that only helped a tiny bit. This was actually using the MiniDSP with my old sub using xlr connectors. I wonder if connecting it up to the Beringer will help fix that or if it is only an issue between the preamp and the MiniDSP. I am hoping I don't have to get a clean box or something like that. If so - any recommendations?
If I ditched the MiniDSP and did the 1124, does this issue disappear? The MiniDSP is soooooo nice and easy and quick and many other advantages, but 1124 does have some definite advantages over it. Such as the ability to load new filter settings at the without a computer. So I could have the late night setting and the setting for when the wife is home and when she is not. :devil:
What I settled on was to have the cones showing, but to recess the drivers a 2-3 inches and cover with a grill to protect them. Exposing the back sides required building a box so the backs did not stick out too far into the room. It was too much work for what it would get me. So I have added a few extra boards to recess the drivers.Glad your drivers arrived. Did you figure something out with your line array? You never said what your final plan was.
Glued, screwed and bolted to concrete. With current plans, this thing will be well over 200 pounds of subwoofer.7 boards? 8? What is the master plan here. Should be a pretty stout baffle if those get coupled together well. Gluing right?
Oh - forgot, still planning on cutting a hole in the wall and placing the baffle in the wall. This is the cleanest install the the least intrusive in the room. Can always close the wall up easily enough if needed. But, I am doing this by the seat of the pants, so reserve the right to make a game time decision.7 boards? 8? What is the master plan here. Should be a pretty stout baffle if those get coupled together well. Gluing right?
I have only about 7 clamps. Not at all enough so, I think I am going to make use of my floor, a set of concrete blocks I have and screwing and gluing. Clamps will help keep things lined up. I guess I need to start at the front and work all the way back if I am screwing. If ya know what I mean.Lookin' good! Do you have a massive pile of wood clamps or are you just gonna screw and glue?
Thanks! I have told my friends that this is a IB subwoofer - to confused looks of course. When I tell them that the design is such that they will be sitting INSIDE the subwoofer - that gets their attention.Looks like an impressive baffle for an impressive looking line array!
Hmmm.. I re-read the FAQs and could not find what you describe. I did a few searches and a number of people describe various methods of XPS(extruded foam) or caulking to seal. My sense is that there is no issue with sealing, just with the coupling. Most of the line arrays(that are not build directly in concrete) are not as well braced as mine will be. Given that - maybe there will be very little vibration to transfer and a simple seal will work.I've thought a bit about decoupling and was thinking about attempting something with my upcoming build. I searched around a bit on The Cult of the Infinitely Baffled. One of the FAQ posts (I believe) states something to the effect of "been there, done that, doesn't work" wrt decoupling the baffle. I could not find any support documentation however.
I was afraid that inspector would screw with you . Can you brace it to your back wall of concrete?I am considering decoupling mainly because my baffle wall must be floated 2" above the slab in the basement to meet code. (unstable soils)
From what I have read, you just need to be worried about the seal and not so much from the decoupling given that you are running manifolds. I have heard that a properly designed manifold has close to no mechanical vibrations. The wall is what needs to be braced so as not to be vibrating your subs.The idea I had was to support my baffle (manifold in my case) on the concrete slab and design the opening to lay something like 1/4" from the actual (sealed) wall opening. I would then use a rubber airtight seal between the two. I was actually considering cutting some mountain bike tubes and using silicone adhesive to create this seal. I'd probably staple the rubber up to both sides and use silicone around the edges. I don't see having a problem with getting it airtight and I can't really think of any other drawbacks.
I like your idea but I would not use MDF. I would implement a sort of truss out of 2x4's. MDF is wimpy stuff.Bracing thoughts: The following is all my mind is coming up with for bracing. I have considerable advantage because it is sitting on a concrete floor and is only 20" tall. What should I use for the braces? MDF? What am I missing? Maybe I should add a board across the top along the back that would be notched into the braces for added stability across the top.
At $26,000 installed, they are a little outside my budget at the moment. Have to wait until payday.Blitzer, is your new avatar what I think it is? OK yes I know it is, and why is that your avatar? :foottap:
Are you holding something out on us?