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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
why no edit button?? nvm it appeared!!!!

i added some more wood behind the sub and increased the height of the model to get to 15.07 ft^3 i originally didn't include the bracing and subs in the calculation and had to increase the height by 2in

the subs aren't the greatest but they have about 1inch of travel and were quite loud in the truck, hopefully it will work ok in the house.

i am going to buy a ep2500 or ep4000, is the 4000 worth the extra 100$? they look identical
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
they are dvc so its like wiring 6 4 ohm subs

i was planing on hooking one coil from each sub in series giving 12 ohm then hooking the 2x 12 ohm load parallel to get 6 ohm total load and run to a ep2500 or 4000 in bridged mode.

also i think they are closer to 3.5 ohm each coil giving me a total of 5.25ohm

i could also run 2 coils series for 8 ohm then 3 parallel to 2.66ohm but that may be to much load i dont know, if i figure with 3.4ohm that gives me a 2.33 ohm load.

will a ep2500 or ep4000 be stable at 2.33 ohm bridged? looking at the specs its 4ohm stable in bridged mode.
 

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that is called the tinsel wire. it is pretty hard to replace depending on how your subs have them integrated into it. it is the wire that connects the subwoofer's voice coil to the input terminals.

"I replace lead wire all the time, its not that difficlut to do. Tinsel lead is light gauge wire wound with fiberglass strands for streangth. The wires are set to certain leangth to prevent slapping against the cone or pulling out if to short. Using connector or soldering in jumper is a tempory solution. These wires take alot of vibration and any hard spots in the wire will break. Try finding a "blowen" speaker and steal its lead, if you cant find "new", your solution with 16g will work."
- found that online.

if you have any lighter gauge wire that is very flexible you can do it. just be careful.
 
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